Skin science article
Anai Rui Vitamin C + Glutathione Serum Versus Anai Rui 5% Tranexamic Acid Serum
Anai Rui Vitamin C + Glutathione Serum Versus Anai Rui 5% Tranexamic Acid Serum This brightening serum is formulated around Glutathione and 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots. This brightening serum is formula
Anai Rui Vitamin C + Glutathione Serum Versus Anai Rui 5% Tranexamic Acid Serum
This brightening serum is formulated around Glutathione and 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots.
This brightening serum is formulated around Tranexamic Acid and Niacinamide to fade the look of dark spots and brighten dull-looking skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
No concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glutathione
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Niacinamide
Glycerin
Sodium Polyglutamate
Sodium Hyaluronate
Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Carbomer
Butylene Glycol
Betaine
Panthenol
Arginine
Beta-Glucan
Portulaca Oleracea Extract
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Polyglycerin-10
Rosa Hybrid Flower Extract
Gardenia Florida Fruit Extract
Phellodendron Amurense Bark Extract
1,2-Hexanediol
Pentylene Glycol
Water, Glutathione, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Niacinamide, Glycerin, Sodium Polyglutamate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Carbomer, Butylene Glycol, Betaine, Panthenol, Arginine, Beta-Glucan, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Polyglycerin-10, Rosa Hybrid Flower Extract, Gardenia Florida Fruit Extract, Phellodendron Amurense Bark Extract, 1,2-Hexanediol, Pentylene Glycol
Tranexamic Acid
Kojic Acid
Alpha-Arbutin
Lavandula Angustifolia Flower Extract
Water, Tranexamic Acid, Niacinamide, Kojic Acid, Alpha-Arbutin, Arginine, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Carbomer, Butylene Glycol, Gardenia Florida Fruit Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia Flower Extract, Phellodendron Amurense Bark Extract, 1,2-Hexanediol, Pentylene Glycol
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Arginine is a semi-essential amino acid. This just means our bodies can product a bit on its own, but sometimes needs a little boost from food sources.
It is a part of your skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.
Here's an interesting thing about Arginine: your skin converts it into urea through the Krebs-Henseleit urea cycle. Urea is one of the most effective humectants your skin naturally produces.
A clinical study showed applying 2.5% arginine hydrochloride to atopic dermatitis skin showed significant urea levels in the stratum corneum and improved moisture in just four weeks.
Arginine is also a precursor to nitric oxide; nitric oxide improves microcirculation and supports wound healing and collagen synthesis.
One study found that an amino acid complex containing Arginine reduced skin irritation, improved hydration, and accelerated skin repair in clinical / in-vivo studies.
Arginine itself is an amino acid and not a fatty acid, oil, or ester. On its own, it's not a direct food source for Malassezia, or the yeast that causes fungal acne.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.
Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.
It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.
Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.
A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.
This ingredient comes from the evergreen flowering plant, gardenia. It has skin conditioning properties.
This ingredient is created by putting sodium hyaluronate through hydrolysis.
You might know this as 'mini' or 'ultra low-molecular weight' hyaluronic acid. The small molecule size means it is able to travel deeper in the skin.
According to studies, low molecular-weight hyaluronic acid can:
One study from 2011 found ultra-low weight HA to show pro-inflammatory properties. Another study from 2022 found it to downregulate UV-B induced inflammation.
Hydrolysis is a process of changing a molecule using water or enzymes.
This ingredient is water-soluble.
Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:
Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.
On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.
Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.
This ingredient is also known as Amur cork tree bark. It is a botanical extract with skin conditioning and tonic properties.
Amur tree bark is rich in compounds, such as berberine and palmatine, that are widely studied for antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity.
In lab research, this ingredient has been shown to reduce inflammation in skin cells exposed to pollution. The results were also linked to PAR-2 signaling, a pathway involved in irritation and barrier stress. This is why you'll see this ingredient in "anti-pollution" skincare.
Preclinical work also suggests anti-inflammatory benefits in atopic-dermatitis models when used topically.
Please note that these studies do not offer strong proof because they do not involve humans. However, this ingredient has low irritation/risk and there's no harm in trying it out.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!