Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Anua Heartleaf 77% Soothing Toner Versus Beauty of Joseon Pure Cloud Bubble Toner

Anua Heartleaf 77% Soothing Toner Versus Beauty of Joseon Pure Cloud Bubble Toner This calming toner is formulated around Houttuynia Cordata Extract and Panthenol to calm redness and hydrate skin. This calming toner is formulated around Niacinamide and Portula

Anua Heartleaf 77% Soothing Toner Versus Beauty of Joseon Pure Cloud Bubble Toner

This calming toner is formulated around Houttuynia Cordata Extract and Panthenol to calm redness and hydrate skin.

This calming toner is formulated around Niacinamide and Portulaca Oleracea Extract to calm redness and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

No key ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

No concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Houttuynia Cordata Extract 77%

Water

1,2-Hexanediol

Glycerin

Betaine

Panthenol

Saccharum Officinarum Extract

Portulaca Oleracea Extract

Butylene Glycol

Vitex Agnus Castus Extract

Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract

Arctium Lappa Root Extract

Phellinus Linteus Extract

Vitis Vinifera Fruit Extract

Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract

Centella Asiatica Extract

Isopentyldiol

Methylpropanediol

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Tromethamine

Disodium EDTA

Houttuynia Cordata Extract 77%, Water, 1,2-Hexanediol, Glycerin, Betaine, Panthenol, Saccharum Officinarum Extract, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Butylene Glycol, Vitex Agnus Castus Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Arctium Lappa Root Extract, Phellinus Linteus Extract, Vitis Vinifera Fruit Extract, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Isopentyldiol, Methylpropanediol, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Tromethamine, Disodium EDTA

Dipropylene Glycol

Propanediol

Niacinamide

Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract

Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Oil

Citrus Nobilis Peel Oil

Litsea Cubeba Fruit Oil

C12-14 Pareth-12

Sodium Citrate

Adenosine

Citric Acid

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Nephrite Powder

Ethylhexylglycerin

Water, Dipropylene Glycol, Propanediol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Glycerin, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Saccharum Officinarum Extract, Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Oil, Citrus Nobilis Peel Oil, Litsea Cubeba Fruit Oil, C12-14 Pareth-12, Panthenol, Sodium Citrate, Adenosine, Citric Acid, Disodium EDTA, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Nephrite Powder, Ethylhexylglycerin

Reviews

Be the first to review

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.

This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:

On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.

One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).

Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.

You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.

There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.

D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.

Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):

Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.

This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.

Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.

This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.

This extract comes from Purslane, a succulent. It has anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and hydrating properties.

Purslane is very nutritious. It contains omega-3 fatty acids, NMFs, many vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants. The vitamins found in purslane include: Vitamin C, Vitamin A, and Vitamin E.

Fun fact: Purslane is a succulent with an extensive habitat. It is used in traditional Korean medicine to treat irritated skin.

Nowadays, purslane is becoming a superfood due to its highly nutritious content.

This ingredient is also called sugarcane extract. It is a moisturizing humectant and has skin soothing properties.

Similar to hyaluronic acid, sugarcane can attract moisture to your skin.

Glycolic acid is a derivative of sugarcane. While glycolic acid is an AHA with exfoliating properties, sugarcane is not an AHA.

A study from 2021 found the compounds in sugarcane extract to have antioxidant, antimicrobial, and anti-inflammatory activity. The study also suggests these compounds can inhibit skin ageing enzymes and promote collagen synthesis.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
  4. 04Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
  5. 05Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
  6. 06Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
  7. 07Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
  8. 08Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
  9. 09Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
  10. 10This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
  11. 11Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
  12. 12Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
  13. 13Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
  14. 14And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
  15. 15You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
  16. 16In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
  17. 17If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
  18. 18When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
  19. 19When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
  20. 20In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

03

Comparison edit

Read side by side