APLB Collagen EGF Peptide Facial Cream Versus ma:nyo Bifida Biome Concentrate Cream

APLB Collagen EGF Peptide Facial Cream Versus ma:nyo Bifida Biome Concentrate Cream

This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Centella Asiatica Extract and Sh-Oligopeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier.

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Bifida Ferment Lysate and Niacinamide to strengthen the skin barrier and soften the look of wrinkles.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Centella Asiatica Extract 29.2%

Glycerin

Cetyl Ethylhexanoate

Butylene Glycol

Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate

Hydrolyzed Collagen

Sh-Oligopeptide-1

Sodium Hyaluronate

Stearic Acid

Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate

Hydrogenated Polydecene

Trideceth-10

Silica

Glyceryl Stearate

Beeswax

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil

Betaine

Trehalose

Citric Acid

Sodium Citrate

Nelumbo Nucifera Extract

Artemisia Annua Extract

Oryza Sativa Extract

Yeast Ferment Extract

Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract

Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract

Squalane

Beta-Glucan

Dipropylene Glycol

Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Extract

Madecassic Acid

Asiaticoside

Asiatic Acid

Disodium EDTA

Propanediol

Hydroxyacetophenone

1,2-Hexanediol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Water, Centella Asiatica Extract 29.2%, Glycerin, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Butylene Glycol, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Sodium Hyaluronate, Stearic Acid, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Trideceth-10, Silica, Glyceryl Stearate, Beeswax, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Betaine, Trehalose, Citric Acid, Sodium Citrate, Nelumbo Nucifera Extract, Artemisia Annua Extract, Oryza Sativa Extract, Yeast Ferment Extract, Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract, Squalane, Beta-Glucan, Dipropylene Glycol, Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Extract, Madecassic Acid, Asiaticoside, Asiatic Acid, Disodium EDTA, Propanediol, Hydroxyacetophenone, 1,2-Hexanediol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Bifida Ferment Lysate 62%

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Niacinamide

Cetearyl Alcohol

Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate

Cutibacterium Granulosum Ferment Extract Filtrate

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Lactobacillus/Pumpkin Fruit Ferment Filtrate

Aureobasidium Pullulans Ferment

Panthenol

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Copper Tripeptide-1

Sh-Polypeptide-1

Stearyl Alcohol

Ceramide NP

Ceramide AP

Ceramide As

Ceramide Ns

Ceramide EOP

Epigallocatechin Gallate

Glyceryl Stearate Se

Sorbitan Stearate

Isopropyl Myristate

Sodium Carbomer

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Glyceryl Caprylate

Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Potassium Hyaluronate

Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate

Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer

Hyaluronic Acid

Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate

Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract

Panax Ginseng Callus Culture Extract

Panax Ginseng Root Extract

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Phytosphingosine

Cholesterol

Hydrolyzed Algin

Physalis Alkekengi Fruit Extract

Foeniculum Vulgare Fruit Extract

Phosphatidylcholine

Illicium Verum Fruit Extract

Caramel

Dextrin

Rosa Damascena Flower Oil

Caffeine

Adenosine

Bifida Ferment Lysate 62%, Butylene Glycol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Glycerin, Squalane, Niacinamide, 1,2-Hexanediol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate, Cutibacterium Granulosum Ferment Extract Filtrate, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Lactobacillus/Pumpkin Fruit Ferment Filtrate, Aureobasidium Pullulans Ferment, Betaine, Panthenol, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Copper Tripeptide-1, Sh-Polypeptide-1, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Glyceryl Stearate, Stearyl Alcohol, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Ceramide NP, Ceramide AP, Ceramide As, Ceramide Ns, Ceramide EOP, Epigallocatechin Gallate, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Sorbitan Stearate, Dipropylene Glycol, Isopropyl Myristate, Sodium Carbomer, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Glyceryl Caprylate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Potassium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Water, Ethylhexylglycerin, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Panax Ginseng Callus Culture Extract, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Phytosphingosine, Cholesterol, Hydrolyzed Algin, Stearic Acid, Physalis Alkekengi Fruit Extract, Foeniculum Vulgare Fruit Extract, Phosphatidylcholine, Illicium Verum Fruit Extract, Caramel, Dextrin, Rosa Damascena Flower Oil, Caffeine, Adenosine

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Betaine is a humectant. Like hyaluronic acid, it helps attract and retain moisture in the skin. It’s known for being gentle and for helping the skin maintain balanced hydration.

Betaine is mainly used to improve hydration and support calmer skin. It helps skin cells regulate water balance because it functions as an osmolyte.

Some studies suggest betaine may support making skin tone more even.

Fun fact: Betaine naturally exists in the skin and the body. In cosmetic products, it can be either plant-derived (most commonly from sugar beets) or synthetically produced for consistency and stability.

Betaine is also known as trimethylglycine.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Cetyl Ethylhexanoate is an emollient ester. It comes from cetearyl alcohol and 2-ethylhexanoic acid.

Cetyl Ethylhexanoate is an emollient that adds a velvety feel to skin without being greasy or oily. Emollients help trap moisture into your skin, keeping your skin soft and hydrated.

Dipropylene Glycol is a synthetically created humectant, stabilizer, and solvent.

This ingredient helps:

Dipropylene glycol is technically an alcohol, but it belongs to the glycol family (often considered part of the ‘good’ alcohols). This means it is hydrating and gentle on skin unlike drying solvent alcohols like denatured alcohol.

As a masking agent, Dipropylene Glycol can be used to cover the smell of other ingredients. However, it does not have a scent.

Studies show Dipropylene Glycol is considered safe to use in skincare.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Glyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.

Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.

This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.

A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.

Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.

Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.

Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate is a plant-derived emulsifier whose only job is to keep the oily and watery parts of a formula blended so it doesn't separate into layers.

It's compatible with a wide-range of active ingredients and especially good at making emulsions survive heat/freeze cycles.

Typical use concentrations range from 2-3% and it works across a pH of 4.5-8.5.

This ingredient has been found safe to use in cosmetics and has a low irritation profile.

Because it's build on stearic acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. Stearic acid is a C18 fatty acid that falls within the range (C11-24) that Malassezia can feed on.

sh-Oligopeptide-1 is a peptide found naturally in our bodies. Peptides are the building blocks for collagen and elastin in our skin.

In cosmetics, this ingredient is bioengineered to be identical to a human gene that codes for epidermal growth factor (EGF). EGF are signal molecules that simulate cell growth and healing.

Studies find EGF help with:

In South Korea and China, EGF is considered a controversial ingredient. The South Korean Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has cracked down on companies with products including EGF due to false advertisement claims.

According to Dr. Zoe Draelos, growth factors have some drawbacks:

There is also controversy surrounding growth factors. The controversy is due to their mitogenic activity, or their ability to increase the number of cells. It is best to avoid using growth factors if you have psoriasis or are at risk of skin cancer. However, it should be noted EGF are not mutagenic - meaning they will not cause cancer.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Squalane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).

It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.

This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.

Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.

Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.

No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).

Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.

This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.

Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.

Read more about squalene with an "e".

Though squalane is often called an oil, it’s technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.

The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.

Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.

A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.

The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.

Stearic Acid is a fatty acid that is already found in your skin. It's one of the free fatty acids that works alongside ceramides and cholesterols to maintain your barrier.

In cosmetics, it is a multitasker:

Safety-wise, the CIR Expert Panel has concluded it to be safe in cosmetics when formulated to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing.

Free stearic acid is a C18 fatty acid that the Malassezia yeast can substrate, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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