Aveda Tulasāra Firming Sleeping Masque Versus Estée Lauder Resilience Multi-Effect Night Tri-Peptide Face And Neck Creme

Aveda Tulasāra Firming Sleeping Masque Versus Estée Lauder Resilience Multi-Effect Night Tri-Peptide Face And Neck Creme

This anti-aging night moisturizer is formulated around Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 and Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.

This anti-aging night moisturizer is formulated around Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to soften the look of wrinkles.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Heptyl Undecylenate

Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter

Glycerin

Propanediol

Stearic Acid

Glyceryl Stearate

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Candelilla/Jojoba/Rice Bran Polyglyceryl-3 Esters

Dimethicone

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Curcuma Longa Root Extract

Glucosamine Hcl

Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil

Solanum Lycopersicum Fruit/Leaf/Stem Extract

Solanum Tuberosum Pulp Extract

Rubus Idaeus Leaf Extract

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Seed Extract

Sigesbeckia Orientalis Extract

Algae Extract

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

Molasses Extract

Salicylic Acid

Hordeum Vulgare Extract

Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract

Caffeine

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

Oryza Sativa Bran Oil

Helianthus Annuus Seedcake

Elaeis Guineensis Oil

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Chlorella Vulgaris Extract

Narcissus Tazetta Bulb Extract

Salicornia Herbacea Extract

Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide

Hydrolyzed Algin

Tocopherol

Maris Sal

Squalane

Lauroyl Lysine

Cetyl Alcohol

Cetearyl Alcohol

Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate

PEG-100 Stearate

Caprylyl Glycol

Xanthan Gum

Sodium Hyaluronate

Citric Acid

Parfum

Farnesol

Linalool

Citronellol

Citral

Limonene

Benzyl Benzoate

Geraniol

Sodium Citrate

Phenoxyethanol

Water, Heptyl Undecylenate, Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter, Glycerin, Propanediol, Stearic Acid, Glyceryl Stearate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Candelilla/Jojoba/Rice Bran Polyglyceryl-3 Esters, Dimethicone, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Glucosamine Hcl, Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil, Solanum Lycopersicum Fruit/Leaf/Stem Extract, Solanum Tuberosum Pulp Extract, Rubus Idaeus Leaf Extract, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Seed Extract, Sigesbeckia Orientalis Extract, Algae Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Molasses Extract, Salicylic Acid, Hordeum Vulgare Extract, Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract, Caffeine, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Oryza Sativa Bran Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seedcake, Elaeis Guineensis Oil, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Chlorella Vulgaris Extract, Narcissus Tazetta Bulb Extract, Salicornia Herbacea Extract, Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide, Hydrolyzed Algin, Tocopherol, Maris Sal, Squalane, Lauroyl Lysine, Cetyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate, PEG-100 Stearate, Caprylyl Glycol, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Hyaluronate, Citric Acid, Parfum, Farnesol, Linalool, Citronellol, Citral, Limonene, Benzyl Benzoate, Geraniol, Sodium Citrate, Phenoxyethanol

Caprylic/Capric/Myristic/Stearic Triglyceride

Petrolatum

Hexyldecyl Stearate

Butylene Glycol

Glycereth-26

Mimosa Tenuiflora Bark Extract

Cucumis Melo Fruit Extract

Persea Gratissima Oil

Whey Protein

Thermus Thermophillus Ferment

Laminaria Digitata Extract

Artemia Extract

Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract

Ergothioneine

Trifluoroacetyl Tripeptide-2

Trehalose

Sorbitol

Decarboxy Carnosine Hcl

Cholesterol

Isohexadecane

Acetyl Glucosamine

Myristyl Myristate

Cetearyl Glucoside

Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate

Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate

Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Tocopheryl Acetate

Linoleic Acid

Polysorbate 80

Faex Extract

Propylene Glycol Dicaprate

Zinc PCA

Hexylene Glycol

Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer

Myristyl Alcohol

Tromethamine

Potassium Sulfate

Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate

Maltodextrin

Aluminum Hydroxide

Potassium Sorbate

Dextran

Disodium EDTA

BHT

CI 42090

CI 17200

CI 77891

Water, Caprylic/Capric/Myristic/Stearic Triglyceride, Petrolatum, Hexyldecyl Stearate, Butylene Glycol, Dimethicone, Glycereth-26, PEG-100 Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Propanediol, Narcissus Tazetta Bulb Extract, Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract, Mimosa Tenuiflora Bark Extract, Hordeum Vulgare Extract, Cucumis Melo Fruit Extract, Persea Gratissima Oil, Whey Protein, Caffeine, Thermus Thermophillus Ferment, Algae Extract, Laminaria Digitata Extract, Artemia Extract, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract, Ergothioneine, Trifluoroacetyl Tripeptide-2, Trehalose, Sorbitol, Glycerin, Decarboxy Carnosine Hcl, Cholesterol, Isohexadecane, Acetyl Glucosamine, Myristyl Myristate, Cetearyl Glucoside, Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate, Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate, Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate, Caprylyl Glycol, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Tocopheryl Acetate, Linoleic Acid, Polysorbate 80, Faex Extract, Propylene Glycol Dicaprate, Zinc PCA, Helianthus Annuus Seedcake, Hexylene Glycol, Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer, Sodium Hyaluronate, Myristyl Alcohol, Tromethamine, Stearic Acid, Potassium Sulfate, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Citric Acid, Maltodextrin, Aluminum Hydroxide, Parfum, Potassium Sorbate, Dextran, Disodium EDTA, BHT, Phenoxyethanol, CI 42090, CI 17200, CI 77891

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (also known as Argireline) is a synthetic hexapeptide that is often called a "topical Botox alternative".

It works by mimicking how Botox relaxes muscles; it interferes with the signaling process that tells your facial muscles to contract. This can help soften expression lines like forehead wrinkles or crow's feet over time.

The comparison to Botox does have limits because the molecule is water-loving and relatively large.

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 has a hard time absorbing deeply enough through the skin's outer barrier to actually reach the muscles.

So whether it truly works the way Botox does at a biological level is still up for debate, but early clinical outcomes are fairly encouraging.

A 12 week human study of a multi-ingredient regimen containing this ingredient saw:

While some studies have observed improvements in wrinkle appearance, it is important to note that more consistent results are seen in multi-ingredient formulations (vs just Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 alone).

Some research studies also used higher concentrations (up to 10%) while this ingredient is usually found in concentrations up to 0.005% in leave-on formulations.

Algae Extract is a confusing name. This is because algae is an informal term for a group of 30,000 aquatic organisms that can photosynthesize.

The term 'algae extract' can refer to any one, or a blend of, the 30,000 types.

Algae is rich in antioxidants. Antioxidants help fight free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells, such as pollution.

Algae can also help with soothing and hydrating skin.

Many different types of algae have different benefits.

Caffeine is a naturally occurring plant compound found in coffee beans, tea leaves, cocoa pods, and guarana.

As an antioxidant, caffeine protects your skin from free radical damage caused by UV exposure and envionrmnetal stressors.

Early research also shows that caffeine can help calm redness, soothe irritated skin, and support hair growth by stimulating microcirculation in the scalp.

You might have seen eye creams marketing caffeine as a depuffing ingredient. This is because it is a vasoconstrictor meaning it can temporarily constrict blood vessels, though clinical evidence for this specific use is still limited.

Most skincare products contain this ingredient at concentrations between 1-6%. It is able to penetrate skin easily regardless of skin type or thickness.

Just so you know, a very small number of case reports describe caffeine-induced allergy. This ingredient is generally well-tolerated, non-irritating, and non-sensitizing for the majority of people.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.

Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.

It plays several roles in a formula:

Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.

Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.

However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.

Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.

Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.

Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.

This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.

A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.

Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.

However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.

This extract comes from cucumber. Cucumbers are mostly made up of water (95%), and the other 5% is composed of: vitamin C, caffeic acid, fatty acids, amino acids, and other minerals.

Cucumbers have anti-inflammatory, barrier repair, and hydrating properties.

They contain shikimate dehydrigenase, an enzyme shown to help reduce inflammation and soothe the skin.

The amino acids found in cucumbers help nourish our skin's natural acid mantle (it's an important part of our skin barrier). This slightly acidic film acts as a barrier to protect us from bacteria, viruses, and other contaminants.

Unless you have an allergy to cucumbers, this is generally a non-irritating ingredient.

Fun fact: Cucumis Sativus is native to South Asia and can now be found on every continent.

Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.

What it does:

Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:

Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.

Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.

This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.

Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Glyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.

Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.

This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.

A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.

Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.

Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.

Helianthus Annuus Seedcake is an exfoliant.

Hordeum Vulgare Extract is an extract of barley, the same grain used in beer and bread.

In skincare, it is a skin conditioning and hydrating agent. This ingredient contains polyphenols, vitamin E, and trace minerals like zinc, copper, and selenium that help neutralize free radicals behind oxidative skin stress.

Lab studies on human skin cells show it can support the skin barrier, boost cell survival, and speed repair after UV exposure.

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has reviewed 16 barley-derived ingredients and concluded they're safe as used with the highest reported use concentration being 1.5% (in leave-on body/hand products).

Patch testing has also found it not to be a skin irritant or sensitizer at cosmetic levels.

However, barley is a recognized food allergen so people with a known barley/grain allergy should approach it cautiously.

Note: This ingredient is not gluten-free for those avoiding gluten for skin-contact reasons.

Narcissus Tazetta Bulb Extract can cause irritation.

Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.

Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.

For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.

The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.

For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.

One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.

Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.

Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.

The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.

Peg-100 Stearate is an emollient and emulsifier. As an emollient, it helps keep skin soft by trapping moisture in. On the other hand, emulsifiers help prevent oil and water from separating in a product.

PEGS are a hydrophilic polyether compound . There are 100 ethylene oxide monomers in Peg-100 Stearate. Peg-100 Stearate is polyethylene glycol ester of stearic acid.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Stearic Acid is a fatty acid that is already found in your skin. It's one of the free fatty acids that works alongside ceramides and cholesterols to maintain your barrier.

In cosmetics, it is a multitasker:

Safety-wise, the CIR Expert Panel has concluded it to be safe in cosmetics when formulated to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing.

Free stearic acid is a C18 fatty acid that the Malassezia yeast can substrate, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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