Skin science article
Beauty of Joseon Light On Serum : Centella + Vita C Versus Naturium Vitamin C Complex Serum
Beauty of Joseon Light On Serum : Centella + Vita C Versus Naturium Vitamin C Complex Serum This brightening serum is formulated around Centella Asiatica Extract and 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid to brighten dull-looking skin and calm redness. This brightening serum
Beauty of Joseon Light On Serum : Centella + Vita C Versus Naturium Vitamin C Complex Serum
This brightening serum is formulated around Centella Asiatica Extract and 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid to brighten dull-looking skin and calm redness.
This brightening serum is formulated around Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate and Ascorbic Acid to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Centella Asiatica Extract
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Glycerin
Propanediol
Betaine
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
Methyl Trimethicone
Cetyl Ethylhexanoate
Panthenol
Laminaria Japonica Extract
Eclipta Prostrata Leaf Extract
Phellodendron Amurense Bark Extract
Citrus Unshiu Peel Extract
Brassica Oleracea Acephala Leaf Extract
Hydrolyzed Gardenia Florida Extract
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Cetearyl Alcohol
Water
Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Silica
Bisabolol
Potassium Cetyl Phosphate
Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters
Cetearyl Olivate
Sorbitan Olivate
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer
Xanthan Gum
Polyglyceryl-10 Myristate
Adenosine
Fructooligosaccharides
Beta-Glucan
Butylene Glycol
Sorbitan Isostearate
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Maltodextrin
Arginine
Carbomer
Ascorbic Acid Polypeptide
1,2-Hexanediol
Hydroxyacetophenone
Ethylhexylglycerin
Centella Asiatica Extract, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Glycerin, Propanediol, Betaine, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Methyl Trimethicone, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Panthenol, Laminaria Japonica Extract, Eclipta Prostrata Leaf Extract, Phellodendron Amurense Bark Extract, Citrus Unshiu Peel Extract, Brassica Oleracea Acephala Leaf Extract, Hydrolyzed Gardenia Florida Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Water, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Silica, Bisabolol, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Xanthan Gum, Polyglyceryl-10 Myristate, Adenosine, Fructooligosaccharides, Beta-Glucan, Butylene Glycol, Sorbitan Isostearate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Maltodextrin, Arginine, Carbomer, Ascorbic Acid Polypeptide, 1,2-Hexanediol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Ethylhexylglycerin
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Ascorbic Acid
Glutathione
Ananas Sativus Fruit Extract
Carica Papaya Fruit Extract
Mangifera Indica Fruit Extract
Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract
Pleiogynium Timoriense Fruit Extract
Podocarpus Elatus Fruit Extract
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Sodium Hyaluronate
Tocopheryl Acetate
Phenoxyethanol
Caprylyl Glycol
Citric Acid
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Sodium Hydroxide
Potassium Sorbate
Hexylene Glycol
Sorbitol
Algin
Benzoic Acid
Sorbic Acid
Sodium Benzoate
Disodium Phosphate
Gold
Polysorbate 60
Sodium Phosphate
Water, Glycerin, Propanediol, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Ascorbic Acid, Glutathione, Ananas Sativus Fruit Extract, Carica Papaya Fruit Extract, Mangifera Indica Fruit Extract, Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract, Pleiogynium Timoriense Fruit Extract, Podocarpus Elatus Fruit Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Sodium Hyaluronate, Carbomer, Tocopheryl Acetate, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Citric Acid, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Sodium Hydroxide, Beta-Glucan, Potassium Sorbate, Hexylene Glycol, Sorbitol, Xanthan Gum, Algin, Benzoic Acid, Sorbic Acid, 1,2-Hexanediol, Sodium Benzoate, Disodium Phosphate, Gold, Polysorbate 60, Sodium Phosphate
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Beta-Glucan is a soluble polysaccharide (a chain of glucose sugars) sourced from the cells walls of oats, baker's yeast, mushrooms, and seaweed.
It's a rare ingredient that pulls double-duty as a heavy-duty hydrator and skin-soothing repair agent.
On the surface, it acts as a humectant that holds water in place and reduces moisture loss for a plumper, smoother feel, while its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties make it a great pick for calming redness or sensitive skin
The more interesting story is underneath:
Despite its large molecular size, oat beta-glucan has been shown to penetrate the epidermis and reach the dermis by slipping between skin cells. Here, it interacts with fibroblasts and macrophages to nudge collagen synthesis and support wound repair.
A small 2005 split-face clinical study of 27 subjects found topical beta-glucan produced measurable reductions in wrinkle depth, height, and roughness after 8 weeks of use.
It is worth noting the trial was small and the penetration testing used frozen, irradiated skin so the anti-aging data is encouraging rather than definitive.
This ingredient gets along with pretty much everything and is typically used around 0.1-1%.
Fungal acne: This ingredient is not a food source for the Malassezia yeast because it is a glucose polysaccharide with no fatty acid or ester component.
Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.
Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.
It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.
Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.
A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.