Skin science article
Beauty of Joseon Radiance Cleansing Balm Versus Arocell Super Collagen Melting Cleansing Balm
Beauty of Joseon Radiance Cleansing Balm Versus Arocell Super Collagen Melting Cleansing Balm This oil-based makeup remover is made to dissolve makeup, sunscreen, and daily buildup. What's inside Key Ingredients Benefits Concerns Ingredients Side-by-side Cetyl
Beauty of Joseon Radiance Cleansing Balm Versus Arocell Super Collagen Melting Cleansing Balm
This oil-based makeup remover is made to dissolve makeup, sunscreen, and daily buildup.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Cetyl Ethylhexanoate
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate
Synthetic Wax
PEG-10 Isostearate
Sorbitan Sesquioleate
Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil
Oryza Sativa Bran Oil
Water
Oryza Sativa Seed Water
Glycerin
Propanediol
1,2-Hexanediol
Lactobacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract
Butylene Glycol
Coix Lacryma-Jobi Ma-Yuen Seed Extract
Oryza Sativa Extract
Avena Sativa Meal Extract
Ethylhexylglycerin
Caprylyl Glycol
Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate, Synthetic Wax, PEG-10 Isostearate, Sorbitan Sesquioleate, Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil, Oryza Sativa Bran Oil, Water, Oryza Sativa Seed Water, Glycerin, Propanediol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Lactobacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract, Butylene Glycol, Coix Lacryma-Jobi Ma-Yuen Seed Extract, Oryza Sativa Extract, Avena Sativa Meal Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Caprylyl Glycol
Sorbeth-30 Tetraoleate
Parfum
Eclipta Prostrata Extract
Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract
Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil
Olea Europaea Fruit Oil
Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract
Collagen Extract
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Sargassum Vulgare Extract
Curcuma Longa Root Extract
Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract
Punica Granatum Juice Extract
Nelumbo Nucifera Flower Extract
Tocopherol
Leontopodium Alpinum Callus Culture Extract
Wine Extract
Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
Sodium Hyaluronate
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Linalool
Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate, Synthetic Wax, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Sorbeth-30 Tetraoleate, Parfum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Caprylyl Glycol, Water, Eclipta Prostrata Extract, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil, Butylene Glycol, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract, 1,2-Hexanediol, Collagen Extract, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Sargassum Vulgare Extract, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Punica Granatum Juice Extract, Nelumbo Nucifera Flower Extract, Glycerin, Tocopherol, Leontopodium Alpinum Callus Culture Extract, Wine Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Linalool
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Cetyl Ethylhexanoate is an emollient ester. It comes from cetearyl alcohol and 2-ethylhexanoic acid.
Cetyl Ethylhexanoate is an emollient that adds a velvety feel to skin without being greasy or oily. Emollients help trap moisture into your skin, keeping your skin soft and hydrated.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate is a synthetic, oil-loving helper ingredient that does two jobs:
This ingredient is made by joining three building blocks: PEG, Isostearic Acid and glycerin. The PEG gives it the oil-and-water blending power.
This ingredient has been found safe for use in cosmetics and broader PEG family testing shows minimal irritation/sensitization. The molecule's large size also means it isn't expected to penetrate skin to any meaningful degree.
Fungal acne note: This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe due to isostearic acid (C18). Isostearic acid falls into the C11-24 range that Malassezia can feed on.
Synthetic Wax is a manufactured hydrocarbon wax. In formulas, it works as an occlusive emollient that helps reduce water loss and improves the spreadability of products.
Research comparing synthetic wax to traditional mineral-derived products found that formulas containing it perform as well for skin hydration.
It is considered non-comedogenic and vegan-friendly.
This ingredient has a well-established safety record by the CIR Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety.
Synthetic Waxes are straight/branched-chain hydrocarbons with no ester bond or fatty acids. That means there is nothing for the Malassezia yeast to feed on.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!