Skin science article
Bubble Water Slide Hydration Boosting Serum Hyaluronic Acid + Peptides Versus Bubble Super Clear Acne Treating Serum 2% Salicylic Acid
Bubble Water Slide Hydration Boosting Serum Hyaluronic Acid + Peptides Versus Bubble Super Clear Acne Treating Serum 2% Salicylic Acid This hydrating serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Sodium Hyaluronate to hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier.
Bubble Water Slide Hydration Boosting Serum Hyaluronic Acid + Peptides Versus Bubble Super Clear Acne Treating Serum 2% Salicylic Acid
This hydrating serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Sodium Hyaluronate to hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier.
This acne serum is formulated around Salicylic Acid and Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract to clear breakouts and refine the look of pores.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Propanediol
Glycerin
Squalane
Niacinamide
Saccharide Isomerate
Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer
Diheptyl Succinate
Tremella Fuciformis Extract
Sodium Hyaluronate
Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer
Opuntia Ficus-Indica Seed Oil
Tocopheryl Acetate
Lauryl Glucoside
Xanthan Gum
Sodium Lactate
Phytic Acid
Cetearyl Olivate
Sorbitan Olivate
Cetyl Alcohol
Sucrose
Anastatica Hierochuntica Extract
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Euphorbia Cerifera Cera
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Beta-Sitosterol
Glyceryl Behenate
Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate
Oleic Acid
Ceramide NP
Ceramide Ng
Lecithin
Tocopherol
Potassium Hydroxide
Gluconolactone
Phenoxyethanol
Sodium Benzoate
Lactic Acid
Citric Acid
Sodium Citrate
Ethylhexylglycerin
Water, Propanediol, Glycerin, Squalane, Niacinamide, Saccharide Isomerate, Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer, Diheptyl Succinate, Tremella Fuciformis Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Opuntia Ficus-Indica Seed Oil, Tocopheryl Acetate, Lauryl Glucoside, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Lactate, Phytic Acid, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Cetyl Alcohol, Sucrose, Anastatica Hierochuntica Extract, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Euphorbia Cerifera Cera, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Beta-Sitosterol, Glyceryl Behenate, Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate, Oleic Acid, Ceramide NP, Ceramide Ng, Lecithin, Tocopherol, Potassium Hydroxide, Gluconolactone, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Benzoate, Lactic Acid, Citric Acid, Sodium Citrate, Ethylhexylglycerin
Salicylic Acid 2%
Octyldodecyl Stearoyl Stearate
Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Sodium Polyacrylate
Cetearyl Alcohol
Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract
Colloidal Oatmeal
Salvia Officinalis Leaf Extract
Zinc PCA
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Melia Azadirachta Seed Oil
Spiraea Ulmaria Flower Extract
Salix Nigra Bark Extract
Coco-Glucoside
Salicylic Acid 2%, Water, Glycerin, Squalane, Octyldodecyl Stearoyl Stearate, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Sodium Polyacrylate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract, Colloidal Oatmeal, Salvia Officinalis Leaf Extract, Zinc PCA, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Melia Azadirachta Seed Oil, Spiraea Ulmaria Flower Extract, Salix Nigra Bark Extract, Xanthan Gum, Coco-Glucoside, Tocopheryl Acetate, Potassium Hydroxide, Citric Acid, Phenoxyethanol
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.
However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Potassium Hydroxide (also known as potash) is a strong alkaline ingredient that does one job: it nudges a product's pH up so the whole formula lands in a skin-friendly range.
It's also the base that turns oils into liquid soap during the soap making process.
An expert safety panel reviewed it and found it safe when formulations are made to be non-irritating.
As a pH adjuster, it's typically used well under 1% though regulatory caps go much higher: 5% in nail cuticle removers and 2-4.5% in hair straighteners.
Though there is some concern for irritation from raw or high pH material, a well-balanced formula will be a non-issue for the vast majority of people.
Squalane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).
It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.
This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.
Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.
Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.
No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).
Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.
This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.
Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.
Read more about squalene with an "e".
Though squalane is often called an oil, it’s technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.
The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.
Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.
A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.
The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.
Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.
Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.
It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.
One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.
Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.
Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.
The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.
Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.