Skin science article
Bueno MGF Peptide Serum Plus Versus PURITO Bakuchiol Timeless Bloom Revitalizing Serum
Bueno MGF Peptide Serum Plus Versus PURITO Bakuchiol Timeless Bloom Revitalizing Serum This anti-aging serum is formulated around Allantoin and Adenosine to soften the look of wrinkles and fade the look of dark spots. This anti-aging serum is formulated around
Bueno MGF Peptide Serum Plus Versus PURITO Bakuchiol Timeless Bloom Revitalizing Serum
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Allantoin and Adenosine to soften the look of wrinkles and fade the look of dark spots.
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Bakuchiol and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Butylene Glycol
Glycerin
1,2-Hexanediol
Eclipta Prostrata Extract
Trehalose
Biosaccharide Gum-1
Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer
Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Arginine
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Isohexadecane
Allantoin
Xanthan Gum
Adenosine
Polysorbate 80
Sodium Chondroitin Sulfate
Polysorbate 20
Disodium EDTA
Lavandula Angustifolia Oil
Lecithin
Sorbitan Oleate
Sh-Oligopeptide-1
Sh-Polypeptide-1
Sh-Polypeptide-16
Sh-Polypeptide-4
Nicotinoyl Hexapeptide-44
Water, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Eclipta Prostrata Extract, Trehalose, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Arginine, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Isohexadecane, Allantoin, Xanthan Gum, Adenosine, Polysorbate 80, Sodium Chondroitin Sulfate, Polysorbate 20, Disodium EDTA, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Lecithin, Sorbitan Oleate, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Sh-Polypeptide-1, Sh-Polypeptide-16, Sh-Polypeptide-4, Nicotinoyl Hexapeptide-44
Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate
Betaine
Bakuchiol
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Lavandula Angustifolia Extract
Rosmarinus Officinalis Extract
Origanum Vulgare Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
Thymus Vulgaris Extract
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Cetearyl Olivate
Sorbitan Olivate
Cetearyl Alcohol
Caprylyl Glycol
Cetyl Palmitate
Hydroxyacetophenone
Pentylene Glycol
Polyisobutene
Sorbitan Palmitate
Ethylhexylglycerin
Carbomer
Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside
Water, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Betaine, Bakuchiol, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Lavandula Angustifolia Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis Extract, Origanum Vulgare Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Thymus Vulgaris Extract, Adenosine, Allantoin, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Caprylyl Glycol, Cetyl Palmitate, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Hydroxyacetophenone, Pentylene Glycol, Polyisobutene, Sorbitan Palmitate, Disodium EDTA, Sorbitan Oleate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Carbomer, Xanthan Gum, Arginine, Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside, 1,2-Hexanediol
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.
The way it works is fairly well mapped out:
Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.
The clinical backing is pretty solid too.
A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.
A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.
On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.
This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.
Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.
Allantoin is a soothing ingredient known for its protective and moisturizing properties; it's basically a quiet workhorse ingredient you can find in a huge range of cosmetics.
Though it can be derived from the comfrey plant, allantoin is produced synthetically for cosmetic products to ensure purity.
Research shows it can encourage your skin cells to turn over and renew by stimulating keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation.
It also has mild keratolytic properties to help loosen and shed dead skin cells without being harsh.
Studies also suggest allantoin can help calm inflammation by dialing down some of the chemical signals your skin sends out when it is irritated.
This ingredient is typically used in the 0.1-0.5% range, and the FDA recognizes it as a skin protectant in OTC products up to 2%.
Overall, allantoin is a wonderful addition to most routines; it is stable across a wide pH range (~4-8), works well with other ingredients, and is considered non-sensitizing/non-irritating.
Fun fact: Allantoin is naturally occurring in comfrey root, beets, chamomile, and wheat sprouts. Our bodies even produce it as a byproduct of uric acid metabolism.
Arginine is a semi-essential amino acid. This just means our bodies can product a bit on its own, but sometimes needs a little boost from food sources.
It is a part of your skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.
Here's an interesting thing about Arginine: your skin converts it into urea through the Krebs-Henseleit urea cycle. Urea is one of the most effective humectants your skin naturally produces.
A clinical study showed applying 2.5% arginine hydrochloride to atopic dermatitis skin showed significant urea levels in the stratum corneum and improved moisture in just four weeks.
Arginine is also a precursor to nitric oxide; nitric oxide improves microcirculation and supports wound healing and collagen synthesis.
One study found that an amino acid complex containing Arginine reduced skin irritation, improved hydration, and accelerated skin repair in clinical / in-vivo studies.
Arginine itself is an amino acid and not a fatty acid, oil, or ester. On its own, it's not a direct food source for Malassezia, or the yeast that causes fungal acne.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
This long ingredient is a copolymer of sodium acrylate and sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate monomers.
It is used to help stabilize other ingredients and create a thicker gel-like texture.
Emulsifiers prevent oils and waters from separating.
Sorbitan Oleate is a PEG-free emulsifier made by esterifying sorbitol with oleic acid.
You'll likely see it paired with Polysorbate 80 to create the right emulsification balance.
Typical use levels in formulas range from 2-10%.
The CIR Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as a cosmetic ingredient.
Since this ingredient is an ester of oleic acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. Oleic acid is a fatty acid that falls into the C11-24 range that Malassezia can metabolize.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.