Centellian24 Madeca Cream Time Reverse Versus Centellian24 Lifting Peptide Cream

Centellian24 Madeca Cream Time Reverse Versus Centellian24 Lifting Peptide Cream

This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Asiaticoside to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier.

This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Adenosine to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Dipropylene Glycol

Hydrogenated Polydecene

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Glycerin

Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate

Glyceryl Stearate

Cyclohexasiloxane

Niacinamide

Cetyl Alcohol

Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate

Vinyldimethicone

Dicaprylyl Ether

Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate

Stearyl Alcohol

Jojoba Esters

Beeswax

Panthenol

1,2-Hexanediol

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate

Madecassic Acid

Asiaticoside

Xylitylglucoside

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Olea Europaea Fruit Oil

Hydroxyacetophenone

Anhydroxylitol

Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract

Asiatic Acid

Glycoproteins

Butylene Glycol

Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax

Xylitol

Centella Asiatica Oil

Methylpropanediol

Allantoin

Propanediol

Candida Bombicola/Glucose/Methyl Rapeseedate Ferment

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Oil

Xanthan Gum

Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax

Ethylhexylglycerin

Ethoxydiglycol

Citrus Nobilis Peel Oil

Glucose

Disodium EDTA

Adenosine

Sorbitan Isostearate

Lavandula Angustifolia Oil

Sodium Laurate

Cyclodextrin

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil

Litsea Cubeba Fruit Oil

Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil

Polyglycerin-3

Pvm/Ma Copolymer

Lauric Acid

Sodium Polyacrylate

Octyldodecanol

Glycine Soja Oil

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Glycolipids

Caffeine

Madecassoside

Centella Asiatica Extract

C12-13 Pareth-9

Collagen Amino Acids

Ceramide NP

Copaifera Officinalis Resin

Citrus Grandis Peel Oil

Juniperus Virginiana Oil

Cimicifuga Racemosa Root Extract

Silybum Marianum Extract

Resveratrol

Arginine

Taurine

Glycogen

Hydrolyzed Elastin

Ectoin

Cedrus Atlantica Bark Oil

Retinol

Lepidium Meyenii Root Extract

Maltodextrin

Ascorbic Acid

Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein

Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil

Phytosphingosine

Tocopherol

Sucrose Distearate

Sodium Hyaluronate

Sodium DNA

Jasminum Officinale Oil

Potassium Sorbate

Phenoxyethanol

Artemisia Absinthium Extract

Myrtus Communis Oil

Rose Flower Oil

Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract

Cyanocobalamin

Aspartic Acid

Ferula Galbaniflua Resin Oil

Glycine

Glutamic Acid

Limonene

Linalool

Citral

Camphor

Beta-Caryophyllene

Citrus Aurantium Peel Oil

Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Peel Oil

Lavandula Oil/Extract

Linalyl Acetate

Pinene

Water, Dipropylene Glycol, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Glyceryl Stearate, Cyclohexasiloxane, Niacinamide, Cetyl Alcohol, Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate, Vinyldimethicone, Dicaprylyl Ether, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Stearyl Alcohol, Jojoba Esters, Beeswax, Panthenol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Madecassic Acid, Asiaticoside, Xylitylglucoside, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Hydroxyacetophenone, Anhydroxylitol, Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract, Asiatic Acid, Glycoproteins, Butylene Glycol, Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax, Xylitol, Centella Asiatica Oil, Methylpropanediol, Allantoin, Propanediol, Candida Bombicola/Glucose/Methyl Rapeseedate Ferment, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Oil, Xanthan Gum, Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax, Ethylhexylglycerin, Ethoxydiglycol, Citrus Nobilis Peel Oil, Glucose, Disodium EDTA, Adenosine, Sorbitan Isostearate, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Sodium Laurate, Cyclodextrin, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil, Litsea Cubeba Fruit Oil, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Polyglycerin-3, Pvm/Ma Copolymer, Lauric Acid, Sodium Polyacrylate, Octyldodecanol, Glycine Soja Oil, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Glycolipids, Caffeine, Madecassoside, Centella Asiatica Extract, C12-13 Pareth-9, Collagen Amino Acids, Ceramide NP, Copaifera Officinalis Resin, Citrus Grandis Peel Oil, Juniperus Virginiana Oil, Cimicifuga Racemosa Root Extract, Silybum Marianum Extract, Resveratrol, Arginine, Taurine, Glycogen, Hydrolyzed Elastin, Ectoin, Cedrus Atlantica Bark Oil, Retinol, Lepidium Meyenii Root Extract, Maltodextrin, Ascorbic Acid, Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil, Phytosphingosine, Tocopherol, Sucrose Distearate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium DNA, Jasminum Officinale Oil, Potassium Sorbate, Phenoxyethanol, Artemisia Absinthium Extract, Myrtus Communis Oil, Rose Flower Oil, Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract, Cyanocobalamin, Aspartic Acid, Ferula Galbaniflua Resin Oil, Glycine, Glutamic Acid, Limonene, Linalool, Citral, Camphor, Beta-Caryophyllene, Citrus Aurantium Peel Oil, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Peel Oil, Lavandula Oil/Extract, Linalyl Acetate, Pinene

Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene

Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate

Cetyl Dimethicone

Phenyl Trimethicone

Cyclopentasiloxane

Pentaerythrityl Distearate

Dimethicone

Tromethamine

Parfum

Eclipta Prostrata Leaf Extract

Laminaria Japonica Extract

Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract

Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract

Curcuma Longa Root Extract

Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract

Polysorbate 20

Fructooligosaccharides

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Acmella Oleracea Extract

Beta-Glucan

Ficus Carica Fruit Extract

Squalane

Corallina Officinalis Extract

Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein

Ascorbic Acid Polypeptide

Hydrolyzed Rice Protein

Lecithin

Hydrolyzed Soy Protein

Hydrolyzed Corn Protein

Polysorbate 60

Alcohol

PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Hydrolyzed Lupine Protein

Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester

PPG-26-Buteth-26

Caprylyl Glycol

Sodium Benzoate

Glycine Soja Protein

Superoxide Dismutase

Oligopeptide-34

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

Sodium Dextran Sulfate

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Copper Tripeptide-1

Tripeptide-1

Tripeptide-29

Folic Acid

Hexapeptide-9

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4

Nonapeptide-1

Sh-Oligopeptide-1

Acetyl Octapeptide-3

Decapeptide-4

Oligopeptide-24

Acetyl Decapeptide-3

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-29

Nonapeptide-7

Nicotinoyl Tripeptide-35

Hexapeptide-12

Oligopeptide-6

Dipeptide-4

Alanine/Histidine/Lysine Polypeptide Copper Hcl

Tripeptide-3

Dipeptide-2

Hexapeptide-2

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-3

Acetyl Tripeptide-1

Pentapeptide-3

Dipeptide-1

Tripeptide-2

Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12

Palmitoyl Dipeptide-7

Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5

Sh-Oligopeptide-2

Sh-Polypeptide-11

Sh-Polypeptide-1

Sh-Polypeptide-9

Water, Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate, Glycerin, Methylpropanediol, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Cetyl Dimethicone, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Phenyl Trimethicone, Niacinamide, Glyceryl Stearate, Cyclopentasiloxane, Cetyl Alcohol, Pentaerythrityl Distearate, Dimethicone, Dicaprylyl Ether, 1,2-Hexanediol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Tromethamine, Parfum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Dipropylene Glycol, Propanediol, Eclipta Prostrata Leaf Extract, Laminaria Japonica Extract, Butylene Glycol, Adenosine, Disodium EDTA, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Polysorbate 20, Fructooligosaccharides, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Acmella Oleracea Extract, Beta-Glucan, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Ficus Carica Fruit Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Squalane, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Cyanocobalamin, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Ascorbic Acid Polypeptide, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Lecithin, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Hydrolyzed Corn Protein, Polysorbate 60, Ceramide NP, Alcohol, Tocopherol, Phenoxyethanol, Sorbitan Isostearate, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Hydrolyzed Lupine Protein, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester, PPG-26-Buteth-26, Caprylyl Glycol, Sodium Benzoate, Glycine Soja Protein, Superoxide Dismutase, Oligopeptide-34, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Dextran Sulfate, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Copper Tripeptide-1, Tripeptide-1, Tripeptide-29, Folic Acid, Hexapeptide-9, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Nonapeptide-1, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Acetyl Octapeptide-3, Decapeptide-4, Oligopeptide-24, Acetyl Decapeptide-3, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-29, Nonapeptide-7, Nicotinoyl Tripeptide-35, Hexapeptide-12, Oligopeptide-6, Dipeptide-4, Alanine/Histidine/Lysine Polypeptide Copper Hcl, Tripeptide-3, Dipeptide-2, Hexapeptide-2, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-3, Acetyl Tripeptide-1, Pentapeptide-3, Dipeptide-1, Tripeptide-2, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Palmitoyl Dipeptide-7, Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Sh-Oligopeptide-2, Sh-Polypeptide-11, Sh-Polypeptide-1, Sh-Polypeptide-9

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.

The way it works is fairly well mapped out:

Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.

The clinical backing is pretty solid too.

A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.

A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.

On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.

This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.

Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Centella Asiatica Extract (Centella) is one of the most researched botanical extracts in skincare with decades of studies backing its effects on inflammation, collagen, and the skin barrier.

That research keeps pointing back to the same four triterpenoid saponins: Asiaticoside, Madecassoside, Asiatic Acid, and Madecassic Acid.

These compounds allow centella to dial back inflammation, encourage the skin to build and hold onto collagen, support the barrier and hydration, and bring solid antioxidant activity to protect against signs of aging.

Centella also carries a nice supporting cast of Vitamin A, vitamin C, several B vitamins, and amino acids. Put it all together and you get an ingredient that soothes, hydrates, and protects, all at once.

Most of centella's magic comes from the four big compounds (Asiaticoside, Madecassoside, Asiatic Acid, and Madecassic Acid). These are the actives doing the heavy lifting in almost every centella study.

Here is the short version of what they do in the skin:

So it is not just soothing for the sake of soothing. Centella calms the skin AND helps it rebuild.

Just FYI, not all centella on an ingredient list is the same. What you are getting actually depends on the extract:

Fun fact on the ratios: the leaves tend to be richest in Madecassoside and Asiaticoside, and lower in the two acids. The exact amounts shift with where the plant is grown and how it is processed. This means purity really does vary brand to brand.

Centella is one of the most easygoing actives out there.

It layers well with basically everything: niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, peptides, and vitamin C, and also pairs nicely with stronger actives like retinoids and exfoliating acids where it can help take the edge off irritation.

On the safety side, centella and its triterpenes are classified as weak sensitizers, meaning allergic reactions are possible but uncommon.

Patch tests at 1% and 5% came back negative in test panels, and creams at typical use levels did not cause allergic reactions across large groups of people.

But as with any new active, a patch test is still a smart move for very reactive skin.

Centella is widely used because it is effective at low percentages. For context, human safety testing found no meaningful irritation from creams containing centella extract at everyday use levels (the tested amounts were well under 1%).

The irritancy threshold in animal testing was also above 30% (so real-world formulas sit far below anything concerning).

In collagen lab studies, higher concentrations drove more collagen synthesis, so serums built around centella tend to feature it more prominently.

Bottom line: you will find centella working nicely anywhere from a fraction of a percent up to hero-ingredient levels depending on whether it is a supporting soother or the main event.

Fun fact: Centella has been used as a medicine and in food for many centuries. As a medicine, it is used to treat burns, scratches, and wounds.

Ceramide NP (formerly known as Ceramide 3) is one of the skin's naturally occurring lipids.

Since ceramides are the major lipid components of the skin, they are crucial for maintaining skin barrier and hydration. Ceramide NP most closely mirrors the dominant kind in human skin amongst ceramide subtypes.

This ceramide works by slotting into gaps within the stratum corneum's lipid matrix to limit trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and shield the skin against external irritants.

A study with 312 patients found that using a ceramide-containing routine for 4 weeks reduced the severity of atopic dermatitis by over 61%.

Another clinical study in subjects aged 60 and older found that a ceramide body wash and moisturizer improved skin dryness and itchy skin in 15 days.

Overall, ceramides are considered non-irritating and safety tests have found little to no observable adverse effects from using this ingredient.

Ceramide NP is usually sourced from plants (like soybean or rice bran), or produced synthetically.

Cetyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol. Fatty Alcohols are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product.

Its main roles are:

Though it has "alcohol" in the name, it is not related to denatured alcohol or ethyl alcohol.

The FDA allows products labeled "alcohol-free" to have fatty alcohols.

This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. It is a primary fatty alcohol with a chain length above 12 carbons. A study from 2019 show Malassezia can feed on fatty alcohols in this range, so it may trigger fungal acne in those prone to it.

Cyanocobalamin is the manufactured version of vitamin B12. It has skin soothing, antioxidant, and barrier protecting properties. Topical cyanocobalamin is used to treat skin irritation and atopic dermatitis.

Dicaprylyl Ether is created from caprylic acid. It is a texture-enhancer and emollient.

As an emollient, Dicaprylyl Ether is non-comedogenic. It helps soften and smooth the skin by creating a barrier on top. This barrier helps trap moisture in, helping to hydrate the skin.

Dicaprylyl Ether gives a non-greasy feel and better spreadability to products.

Dipropylene Glycol is a synthetically created humectant, stabilizer, and solvent.

This ingredient helps:

Dipropylene glycol is technically an alcohol, but it belongs to the glycol family (often considered part of the ‘good’ alcohols). This means it is hydrating and gentle on skin unlike drying solvent alcohols like denatured alcohol.

As a masking agent, Dipropylene Glycol can be used to cover the smell of other ingredients. However, it does not have a scent.

Studies show Dipropylene Glycol is considered safe to use in skincare.

Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.

This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:

On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.

One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).

Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.

You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Glyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.

Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.

This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.

A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.

Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.

Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.

Hydrogenated Lecithin is a more stable version of lecithin.

It's made by taking lecithin (a phospholipid commonly found in soybeans and egg yolks) and hydrogenating it. This just means the unsaturated fatty acids are turned into saturated ones so they don't go bad as easily.

This ingredient is an emollient, emulsifier, and penetration enhancer. As an emollient, it helps soften and hydrate skin by trapping moisture within. As an emulsifier, it prevents oil and water ingredients from separating.

Hydrogenated Lecithin can form tiny spherical structures made of phospholipid bilayers called liposomes. These liposomes are able to capture compounds inside their structure and deliver them through the skin barrier.

Because phospholipids are a natural component of our cell membranes, this ingredient is inherently compatible with skin.

A 2021 study found lecithin-based surfactants were less harsh and more tolerable comared to Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS).

Hydrogenated Polydecene is a synthetic emollient. It forms a non-occlusive film on the skin's surface to provide a silky feel without being greasy.

In vivo studies in volunteers with atopic and dry skin showed no irritation or intolerance. The volunteers also saw a positive effect in dryness, scaling, and roughness after 28 days of use.

Concentrations up to 100% in guinea pig tests found it to be non-sensitizing and completely safe for use in cosmetics.

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid is hyaluronic acid (HA) that is broken down into lower molecular weight fragments.

It's a humectant that pulls and holds water in the skin to help with hydration, plumpness, and reduce transepidermal water loss.

Because hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid is smaller in size, it can slip past your outermost layer of skin more easily than full-sized HA.

Most formulations will combine all sizes to get the best of both worlds.

Typical usage levels range from 0.01-1%. Any percentage higher than 2% might become goopy and tacky.

Hydroxyacetophenone is a small phenolic molecule that earns its place in a formulas as an antioxidant and preservative booster.

As a phenol, it is able to neutralize free radicals to protect both the product and the skin from oxidative stress.

Though it can't kill microbes on its own, it works as a good supporting agent when combined with other preservatives like Phenoxyethanol or 1,2-Hexanediol.

This ingredient naturally occurs as piceol in Norwegian spruce needles (~0.4-1.1% dry weight and in cloudberries). Though the cosmetic-grade material is synthesized for purity and consistency.

You'll usually see it used at low levels and suppliers recommend up to 1% added to a water phase.

Safety testing was done at concentrations like 0.05% in SPF products and 0.5% in a Human Repeated Insult Patch Test. The safety evidence is assuring; this ingredient is safe for cosmetics in current use and also holds safety status as a food flavoring as well.

An honest caveat: the "soothing" and "anti-inflammatory" claims come mostly from supplier marketing rather than published clinical trials. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review's own literature search found no useful efficacy studies on this ingredient.

So the antioxidant and preservative-boosting roles are the well supported ones while the calming benefit is plausible but thinly evidenced.

Overall, this is a well-tolerated, low-irritation multitasker that quietly helps a formula stay fresh and stable.

This is a synthetic polymer. It helps improve the texture of products by adding thickness and gel-like feel.

It is also an emulsifer, meaning it prevents ingredients such as oil and water from separating. It also helps evenly disperse other ingredients.

Methylpropanediol is a synthetic solvent and humectant.

As a solvent, it helps dissolve other ingredients, helping to evenly distribute ingredients throughout the product. This ingredient has also been shown to have antimicrobial properties which makes it a preservative booster.

Methylpropanediol is able to add a bit of moisture to the skin. It also helps other ingredients be better absorbed into the skin, such as salicylic acid.

Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.

And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.

You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.

In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.

If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.

When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.

When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.

In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).

Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.

Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.

The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate is a cleansing agent and emulsifier.

It rounds up dirt, oil, and grime, so they can be rinsed off easily as a cleanser.

On the emulsifier side, it keeps your formula smooth and well-mixed by playing peacekeeper for ingredients that don't naturally get along (like oil and water).

Because it has a C12 (lauric acid) fatty acid chain, this ingredient can potentially feed the Malassezia yeast that causes fungal acne. The Malassezia yeast prefers esters with C11-C24 fatty acids.

This ingredient is an ester of lauric acid and Polyglycerin-10.

Potassium Sorbate is a preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. It is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.

This ingredient comes from potassium salt derived from sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a natural antibiotic and effective against fungus.

Both potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.

You'll often find this ingredient used with other preservatives.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate is an amino-acid based emulsifier. It is made by combining stearic acid with L-glutamic acid and neutralizing it to a sodium salt.

As an emulsifier, it works mainly as an oil-in-water one and helps keep the oil and water in your formulas blended. It also contributes to a smooth, non-greasy skin feel.

This ingredient is biodegradable and commonly available in natural/COSMOS-certified grades.

Sorbitan Isostearate is an emulsifer. It is created from isostearic acid and sorbitol.

As an emulsifier, it keeps the water and oil ingredients from separating. This keeps formulas stable and smooth.

In a 24 hour occlusive patch test on 56 subjects, 10% sorbitan isostearate was completely non-irritating. Most formulas use less than 10%.

Because it's a fatty acid ester, it may not be fungal acne safe since the Malassezia yeast can utilize it as a nutrient source.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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