Skin science article
CeraVe Skin Renewing Day Cream With Broad Spectrum SPF 30 Versus The INKEY List Bio-Active Ceramide Repairing and Plumping Moisturizer
CeraVe Skin Renewing Day Cream With Broad Spectrum SPF 30 Versus The INKEY List Bio-Active Ceramide Repairing and Plumping Moisturizer This anti-aging day moisturizer is formulated around Ceramide NP and Retinol to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen th
CeraVe Skin Renewing Day Cream With Broad Spectrum SPF 30 Versus The INKEY List Bio-Active Ceramide Repairing and Plumping Moisturizer
This anti-aging day moisturizer is formulated around Ceramide NP and Retinol to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier.
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Butyrospermum Parkii Butter and Ceramide NP to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate 7.5%
Zinc Oxide 10.5%
Water
Cyclomethicone
Pentylene Glycol
Phenyl Trimethicone
Cetearyl Alcohol
PEG-40 Stearate
Dimethicone
Glycerin
Stearyl Alcohol
Phenoxyethanol
BHT
Squalane
Potassium Cetyl Phosphate
Potassium Phosphate
Ceramide NP
Ceramide AP
Ceramide EOP
Sorbitan Isostearate
Carbomer
Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Behentrimonium Methosulfate
Ceteareth-20
Sodium Polyacrylate
Lecithin
Retinol
Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
Cholesterol
Disodium EDTA
Chlorphenesin
Alcohol
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Citric Acid
Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Iris Florentina Root Extract
Xanthan Gum
Phytosphingosine
Butylene Glycol
Polysilicone-11
Polysorbate 60
Ethylhexylglycerin
Polysorbate 20
Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate 7.5%, Zinc Oxide 10.5%, Water, Cyclomethicone, Pentylene Glycol, Phenyl Trimethicone, Cetearyl Alcohol, PEG-40 Stearate, Dimethicone, Glycerin, Stearyl Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol, BHT, Squalane, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Potassium Phosphate, Ceramide NP, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP, Sorbitan Isostearate, Carbomer, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Behentrimonium Methosulfate, Ceteareth-20, Sodium Polyacrylate, Lecithin, Retinol, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Cholesterol, Disodium EDTA, Chlorphenesin, Alcohol, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Citric Acid, Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Iris Florentina Root Extract, Xanthan Gum, Phytosphingosine, Butylene Glycol, Polysilicone-11, Polysorbate 60, Ethylhexylglycerin, Polysorbate 20
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
Propanediol
C10-18 Triglycerides
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate
Cetearyl Olivate
Sorbitan Olivate
Cetyl Alcohol
Polyacrylate-13
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene
Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
Laureth-12
Hdi/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer
Polymethylsilsesquioxane
Sodium Hydroxide
Water, Glycerin, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Propanediol, Polysilicone-11, C10-18 Triglycerides, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Cetyl Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol, Ceramide NP, Polyacrylate-13, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Ethylhexylglycerin, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Laureth-12, Sorbitan Isostearate, Hdi/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Citric Acid, Sodium Hydroxide
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Ceramide NP (formerly known as Ceramide 3) is one of the skin's naturally occurring lipids.
Since ceramides are the major lipid components of the skin, they are crucial for maintaining skin barrier and hydration. Ceramide NP most closely mirrors the dominant kind in human skin amongst ceramide subtypes.
This ceramide works by slotting into gaps within the stratum corneum's lipid matrix to limit trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and shield the skin against external irritants.
A study with 312 patients found that using a ceramide-containing routine for 4 weeks reduced the severity of atopic dermatitis by over 61%.
Another clinical study in subjects aged 60 and older found that a ceramide body wash and moisturizer improved skin dryness and itchy skin in 15 days.
Overall, ceramides are considered non-irritating and safety tests have found little to no observable adverse effects from using this ingredient.
Ceramide NP is usually sourced from plants (like soybean or rice bran), or produced synthetically.
Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.
However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Polysilicone-11 is a film-forming silicone that creates a non-tacky and matte finish on the skin. It's commonly used to improve texture, absorb excess oil, and help active ingredients spread evenly.
Due to its "rubber-like" structure, it stays on the skin's surface instead of being absorbed. On the skin, it creates a flexible layer that enhances wearability and stability.
Sorbitan Isostearate is an emulsifer. It is created from isostearic acid and sorbitol.
As an emulsifier, it keeps the water and oil ingredients from separating. This keeps formulas stable and smooth.
In a 24 hour occlusive patch test on 56 subjects, 10% sorbitan isostearate was completely non-irritating. Most formulas use less than 10%.
Because it's a fatty acid ester, it may not be fungal acne safe since the Malassezia yeast can utilize it as a nutrient source.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!