Chantecaille Bio Lifting Mask+ Versus alpyn beauty Super Peptide & Ghostberry Moisturizer

Chantecaille Bio Lifting Mask+ Versus alpyn beauty Super Peptide & Ghostberry Moisturizer

This wash off mask is made with Avena Sativa Kernel Extract and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 for a rinse-off barrier-support boost.

This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 and Ceramide NP to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Propanediol

Glycerin

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

C12-20 Acid PEG-8 Ester

Imperata Cylindrica Root Extract

Potassium Cetyl Phosphate

Carbomer

Saccharide Isomerate

Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose

Pullulan

CI 77891

Avena Sativa Kernel Extract

Hydroxyacetophenone

Sodium Hydroxide

C12-13 Alkyl Lactate

Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract

Caprylyl Glycol

Ethylhexylglycerin

1,2-Hexanediol

Chondrus Crispus Powder

Bisabolol

Tocopheryl Acetate

Brassica Campestris Seed Oil

Pentylene Glycol

Nannochloropsis Oculata Extract

Phytic Acid

Porphyridium Cruentum Extract

Rosa Damascena Flower Oil

Sodium Hyaluronate

Sodium Citrate

Acacia Dealbata Flower Wax

Citrus Aurantium Amara Flower Wax

Jasminum Grandiflorum Flower Wax

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract

Pelargonium Graveolens Oil

Citric Acid

Rosa Damascena Flower Water

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Centella Asiatica Extract

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Nicotiana Sylvestris Leaf Cell Culture

N-Prolyl Palmitoyl Tripeptide-56 Acetate

Potassium Sorbate

Sodium Benzoate

Phenoxyethanol

Biotin

Citronellol

Geraniol

Linalool

Citral

Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Propanediol, Glycerin, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, C12-20 Acid PEG-8 Ester, Imperata Cylindrica Root Extract, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Carbomer, Saccharide Isomerate, Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose, Pullulan, CI 77891, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Hydroxyacetophenone, Sodium Hydroxide, C12-13 Alkyl Lactate, Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Chondrus Crispus Powder, Bisabolol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Brassica Campestris Seed Oil, Pentylene Glycol, Nannochloropsis Oculata Extract, Phytic Acid, Porphyridium Cruentum Extract, Rosa Damascena Flower Oil, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Citrate, Acacia Dealbata Flower Wax, Citrus Aurantium Amara Flower Wax, Jasminum Grandiflorum Flower Wax, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Pelargonium Graveolens Oil, Citric Acid, Rosa Damascena Flower Water, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Centella Asiatica Extract, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Nicotiana Sylvestris Leaf Cell Culture, N-Prolyl Palmitoyl Tripeptide-56 Acetate, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Phenoxyethanol, Biotin, Citronellol, Geraniol, Linalool, Citral

Caprylic/Capric/Myristic/Stearic Triglyceride

Squalane

Candelilla/Jojoba/Rice Bran Polyglyceryl-3 Esters

Coconut Alkanes

C12-16 Alcohols

Polyhydroxystearic Acid

Behenyl Alcohol

Glyceryl Stearate

Cetearyl Alcohol

Symphoricarpos Albus Fruit Extract

Acetyl Octapeptide-3

Ceramide NP

Ceramide EOP

Ceramide Ns

Ceramide As

Ceramide AP

Glyceryl Citrate/Lactate/Linoleate/Oleate

Cetearyl Olivate

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Nephelium Lappaceum Peel Extract

Palmitic Acid

Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate

Sorbitan Olivate

Caprylhydroxamic Acid

Xanthan Gum

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Tasmannia Lanceolata Fruit/Leaf Extract

Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate

Tripeptide-29

Hydrolyzed Pea Protein

2,3-Butanediol

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Hydrolyzed Rice Protein

Cholesterol

Water, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric/Myristic/Stearic Triglyceride, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Squalane, Candelilla/Jojoba/Rice Bran Polyglyceryl-3 Esters, Coconut Alkanes, C12-16 Alcohols, Propanediol, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Behenyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Symphoricarpos Albus Fruit Extract, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Acetyl Octapeptide-3, Ceramide NP, Ceramide EOP, Ceramide Ns, Ceramide As, Ceramide AP, Glyceryl Citrate/Lactate/Linoleate/Oleate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Cetearyl Olivate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Nephelium Lappaceum Peel Extract, Palmitic Acid, Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate, Sorbitan Olivate, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Xanthan Gum, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Tasmannia Lanceolata Fruit/Leaf Extract, Bisabolol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Tripeptide-29, Hydrolyzed Pea Protein, 2,3-Butanediol, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cholesterol, Sodium Benzoate

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (also known as Argireline) is a synthetic hexapeptide that is often called a "topical Botox alternative".

It works by mimicking how Botox relaxes muscles; it interferes with the signaling process that tells your facial muscles to contract. This can help soften expression lines like forehead wrinkles or crow's feet over time.

The comparison to Botox does have limits because the molecule is water-loving and relatively large.

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 has a hard time absorbing deeply enough through the skin's outer barrier to actually reach the muscles.

So whether it truly works the way Botox does at a biological level is still up for debate, but early clinical outcomes are fairly encouraging.

A 12 week human study of a multi-ingredient regimen containing this ingredient saw:

While some studies have observed improvements in wrinkle appearance, it is important to note that more consistent results are seen in multi-ingredient formulations (vs just Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 alone).

Some research studies also used higher concentrations (up to 10%) while this ingredient is usually found in concentrations up to 0.005% in leave-on formulations.

Bisabolol is a gentle skin conditioner, antioxidant, and soothing ingredient.

It's primary claim to fame is soothing and research shows topically applied bisabolol can quiet the chemical messengers that cause your skin to become inflamed, helping to sooth any irritation.

A clinical study found that applying 0.5% bisabolol daily for 8 weeks produced an average 9% decrease in skin pigmentation. Researchers found it can also suppress the process that leads to excess melanin production in skin.

In vitro studies found that bisabolol combined with propylene glycol significantly increased skin permeability by increasing lipid fluidity in the stratum corneum.

You'll likely see use concentrations quite low, usually 0.1-0.2%.

Overall, this is a well-tolerated ingredient that works well in formulas designed for sensitive, reactive, or post-procedure skin.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate is a lightweight ester created from coconut oil fatty acids, caprylic acid, and capric acid.

It is an emollient that helps soften skin and reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL). What sets it apart from heavier emollients is its ultralight, non-greasy feel.

Once applied, this ingredient dries down quickly and leaves a dry, silky finish behind. This also helps improve spreadability and texture.

This ingredient has an excellent safety-record and is non-irritating.

Typical concentrations for cosmetics range from 0.5-62%.

Research on Malassezia growth found no growth on fatty acid esters with chain lengths shorter than 12 carbons (it prefers C11-24).

Since Coco-Caprylate/Caprate is built on C8 and C10 fatty acids, it is out of the range that Malassezia metabolizes, and therefore safe for fungal acne.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Sodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.

Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.

Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.

It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.

Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.

We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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