Skin science article
Charlotte Tilbury Charlotte's Magic Serum Crystal Elixir Versus Beauty of Joseon Glow Deep Serum: Rice + Arbutin
Charlotte Tilbury Charlotte's Magic Serum Crystal Elixir Versus Beauty of Joseon Glow Deep Serum: Rice + Arbutin This anti-aging serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Polyglutamic Acid to soften the look of wrinkles and brighten dull-looking skin. This br
Charlotte Tilbury Charlotte's Magic Serum Crystal Elixir Versus Beauty of Joseon Glow Deep Serum: Rice + Arbutin
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Polyglutamic Acid to soften the look of wrinkles and brighten dull-looking skin.
This brightening serum is formulated around Alpha-Arbutin and Niacinamide to fade the look of dark spots and brighten dull-looking skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Niacinamide
Glycereth-26
Triheptanoin
Glycerin
Methyl Gluceth-20
Silica
Camellia Oleifera Seed Oil
Quartz Powder
Amethyst Powder
Ruby Powder
Gold
Butyrospermum Parkii Oil
Phenoxyethanol
Dimethyl Isosorbide
Polysorbate 20
Glyceryl Stearate
Butylene Glycol
Octyldodecyl Oleate
Benzyl Alcohol
Myrothamnus Flabellifolia Leaf Extract
PEG-100 Stearate
Octyldodecyl Stearoyl Stearate
Schisandra Chinensis Fruit Extract
Carbomer
Sodium Gluconate
Sodium Hyaluronate
Chondrus Crispus Extract
Sodium Hydroxide
Saussurea Involucrata Callus Extract
Tocopheryl Acetate
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Polyglutamic Acid
Pentylene Glycol
Sorbitol
Magnesium Aspartate
Zinc Gluconate
Rosa Canina Fruit Extract
Polyhydroxystearic Acid
Octyldodecanol
Sodium Benzoate
Propanediol
Biosaccharide Gum-4
Xanthan Gum
Parfum
Plumeria Alba Flower Extract
Plumeria Rubra Flower Extract
Lithothamnion Calcareum Extract
Lactic Acid
Potassium Sorbate
Caprylyl Glycol
Copper Gluconate
Hydrated Silica
1,2-Hexanediol
Citric Acid
Solanum Tuberosum Pulp Extract
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9
Dehydroacetic Acid
Ascorbic Acid
Glutathione
Limonene
Geraniol
Citronellol
Linalool
Citral
Water, Niacinamide, Glycereth-26, Triheptanoin, Glycerin, Methyl Gluceth-20, Silica, Camellia Oleifera Seed Oil, Quartz Powder, Amethyst Powder, Ruby Powder, Gold, Butyrospermum Parkii Oil, Phenoxyethanol, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Polysorbate 20, Glyceryl Stearate, Butylene Glycol, Octyldodecyl Oleate, Benzyl Alcohol, Myrothamnus Flabellifolia Leaf Extract, PEG-100 Stearate, Octyldodecyl Stearoyl Stearate, Schisandra Chinensis Fruit Extract, Carbomer, Sodium Gluconate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Chondrus Crispus Extract, Sodium Hydroxide, Saussurea Involucrata Callus Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Polyglutamic Acid, Pentylene Glycol, Sorbitol, Magnesium Aspartate, Zinc Gluconate, Rosa Canina Fruit Extract, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Octyldodecanol, Sodium Benzoate, Propanediol, Biosaccharide Gum-4, Xanthan Gum, Parfum, Plumeria Alba Flower Extract, Plumeria Rubra Flower Extract, Lithothamnion Calcareum Extract, Lactic Acid, Potassium Sorbate, Caprylyl Glycol, Copper Gluconate, Hydrated Silica, 1,2-Hexanediol, Citric Acid, Solanum Tuberosum Pulp Extract, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9, Dehydroacetic Acid, Ascorbic Acid, Glutathione, Limonene, Geraniol, Citronellol, Linalool, Citral
Oryza Sativa Bran Water 68.6%
Dipropylene Glycol
Alpha-Arbutin 2%
Panthenol
Polyglycerin-3
Trehalose
Glyceryl Glucoside
Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Ethylhexylglycerin
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Arginine
Disodium EDTA
Coptis Japonica Root Extract
Sorbitan Isostearate
Glucose
Coix Lacryma-Jobi Ma-Yuen Seed Extract
Glycine Soja Seed Extract
Hordeum Distichon Extract
Oryza Sativa Extract
Sesamum Indicum Seed Extract
Triticum Vulgare Seed Extract
Vigna Radiata Seed Extract
Zea Mays Kernel Extract
Oryza Sativa Bran Water 68.6%, Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Dipropylene Glycol, Alpha-Arbutin 2%, Niacinamide, Methyl Gluceth-20, Panthenol, Polyglycerin-3, Trehalose, Glyceryl Glucoside, Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Xanthan Gum, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Arginine, Disodium EDTA, Coptis Japonica Root Extract, Sorbitan Isostearate, Glucose, Coix Lacryma-Jobi Ma-Yuen Seed Extract, Glycine Soja Seed Extract, Hordeum Distichon Extract, Oryza Sativa Extract, Sesamum Indicum Seed Extract, Triticum Vulgare Seed Extract, Vigna Radiata Seed Extract, Zea Mays Kernel Extract
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Methyl Gluceth-20 is a humectant. Humectants help draw moisture from the air to your skin.
It is created by combining polyethylene glycol with glucose.
Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.