Skin science article
Clarins Super Restorative Remodelling Serum Versus Kiehl's Micro-Dose Anti-Aging Retinol Serum with Ceramides and Peptide
Clarins Super Restorative Remodelling Serum Versus Kiehl's Micro-Dose Anti-Aging Retinol Serum with Ceramides and Peptide This anti-aging serum is formulated around Caffeine to soften the look of wrinkles. This anti-aging serum is formulated around Niacinamide
Clarins Super Restorative Remodelling Serum Versus Kiehl's Micro-Dose Anti-Aging Retinol Serum with Ceramides and Peptide
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Caffeine to soften the look of wrinkles.
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Ceramide NP to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone
Water
Buddleja Officinalis Leaf Extract
Butylene Glycol
Butylphenyl Methylpropional
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
C13-14 Isoparaffin
Caffeine
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Caprylyl Glycol
Carum Petroselinum Extract
Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate
CI 14700
Citric Acid
Citronellol
Dimethicone
Diospyros Kaki Fruit Extract
Dipsacus Sylvestris Extract
Disodium EDTA
Ethylhexylglycerin
Glycerin
Hexyl Cinnamal
Hydrolyzed Linseed Extract
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Isononyl Isononanoate
Laureth-7
Linalool
Parfum
PEG-8
PEG-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate
Pelvetia Canaliculata Extract
Phenoxyethanol
Polyacrylamide
Potassium Sorbate
Pueraria Lobata Root Extract
Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
Siloxanetriol Alginate
Solanum Lycopersicum Fruit Extract
Sodium Citrate
Sodium Polyacrylate
Sorbic Acid
Stearyl Heptanoate
Thymus Vulgaris Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
Tocopherol
Tocopheryl Acetate
Tromethamine
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Water, Buddleja Officinalis Leaf Extract, Butylene Glycol, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Caffeine, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Caprylyl Glycol, Carum Petroselinum Extract, Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate, CI 14700, Citric Acid, Citronellol, Dimethicone, Diospyros Kaki Fruit Extract, Dipsacus Sylvestris Extract, Disodium EDTA, Ethylhexylglycerin, Glycerin, Hexyl Cinnamal, Hydrolyzed Linseed Extract, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Isononyl Isononanoate, Laureth-7, Linalool, Parfum, PEG-8, PEG-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, Pelvetia Canaliculata Extract, Phenoxyethanol, Polyacrylamide, Potassium Sorbate, Pueraria Lobata Root Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Siloxanetriol Alginate, Solanum Lycopersicum Fruit Extract, Sodium Citrate, Sodium Polyacrylate, Sorbic Acid, Stearyl Heptanoate, Thymus Vulgaris Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Tocopherol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tromethamine
Pentylene Glycol
Niacinamide
Cetyl Alcohol
Isohexadecane
Diisopropyl Sebacate
2-Oleamido-1,3-Octadecanediol
4-T-Butylcyclohexanol
Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester
Adenosine
Ceramide NP
Hydroxypalmitoyl Sphinganine
Lauroyl Lysine
Octyldodecanol
Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Sodium Chloride
Sodium Hyaluronate
Sodium Hydroxide
Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Retinol
Dicaprylyl Ether
Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Behenyl Alcohol
Carbomer
Cetearyl Alcohol
Cetearyl Glucoside
Glycine Soja Oil
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Lecithin
Phenethyl Alcohol
Poloxamer 188
Polycaprolactone
Sorbitan Laurate
Steareth-100
CI 40800
Chlorphenesin
Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Pentylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Cetyl Alcohol, Isohexadecane, Isononyl Isononanoate, Diisopropyl Sebacate, 2-Oleamido-1,3-Octadecanediol, 4-T-Butylcyclohexanol, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester, Adenosine, Ceramide NP, Hydroxypalmitoyl Sphinganine, Lauroyl Lysine, Octyldodecanol, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Sodium Chloride, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hydroxide, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Retinol, Tocopherol, Dicaprylyl Ether, Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Behenyl Alcohol, Caprylyl Glycol, Carbomer, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Glucoside, Glycine Soja Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Lecithin, Phenethyl Alcohol, Poloxamer 188, Polycaprolactone, Sorbitan Laurate, Steareth-100, CI 40800, Chlorphenesin, Phenoxyethanol
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Hydroxyethylcellulose is used to improve the texture of products. It is created from a chemical reaction involving ethylene oxide and alkali-cellulose. Cellulose is a sugar found in plant cell walls and help give plants structure.
This ingredient helps stabilize products by preventing ingredients from separating. It can also help thicken the texture of a product.
This ingredient can also be found in pill medicines to help our bodies digest other ingredients.
Isononyl Isononanoate is a synthetic skin-conditioner and texture enhancer. It is created from nonanoic acid, a fatty acid found in cocoa and lavender oil.
As an emollient, Isononyl Isononanoate helps keep your skin soft and smooth. This is because emollients create a barrier on the skin to trap moisture in.
Isononyl Isononanoate helps give products a velvet feel and improves spreadability.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!