Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Clinique Moisture Surge 100H Auto-Replenishing Hydrator Versus PCA Skin Silkcoat Balm

Clinique Moisture Surge 100H Auto-Replenishing Hydrator Versus PCA Skin Silkcoat Balm This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Sodium Hyaluronate and Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin. This barrier-repair

Clinique Moisture Surge 100H Auto-Replenishing Hydrator Versus PCA Skin Silkcoat Balm

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Sodium Hyaluronate and Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

This barrier-repair night moisturizer is formulated around Butyrospermum Parkii Butter and Hydrolyzed Silk to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Dimethicone

Butylene Glycol

Glycerin

Trisiloxane

Trehalose

Saccharomyces Lysate Extract

Sodium Hyaluronate

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Water

Silybum Marianum Extract

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Polysaccharides

Sorbitol

Sodium Polyaspartate

Caffeine

Thermus Thermophillus Ferment

Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate

Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12

Caprylyl Glycol

Sucrose

Hydroxyethyl Urea

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

Oleth-10

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Saccharide Isomerate

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Tromethamine

Glyceryl Polymethacrylate

Disodium EDTA

PEG-8

Hexylene Glycol

Citric Acid

Sodium Citrate

Tocopheryl Acetate

BHT

Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate

Phenoxyethanol

Sodium Benzoate

Potassium Sorbate

CI 14700

CI 19140

Water, Dimethicone, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Trisiloxane, Trehalose, Saccharomyces Lysate Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Water, Silybum Marianum Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Polysaccharides, Sorbitol, Sodium Polyaspartate, Caffeine, Thermus Thermophillus Ferment, Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Caprylyl Glycol, Sucrose, Hydroxyethyl Urea, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Oleth-10, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Saccharide Isomerate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Tromethamine, Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, Disodium EDTA, PEG-8, Hexylene Glycol, Citric Acid, Sodium Citrate, Tocopheryl Acetate, BHT, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, CI 14700, CI 19140

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Cetyl Alcohol

Glyceryl Stearate

Cyclopentasiloxane

Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

Stearic Acid

Potassium Cetyl Phosphate

Cetearyl Alcohol

Polysorbate 60

Allantoin

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Squalane

Hydrolyzed Silk

Ethylhexylglycerin

Hydrastis Canadensis Extract

Lavandula Angustifolia Flower Extract

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract

Thymus Vulgaris Flower/Leaf Extract

Sodium Hydroxide

Water, Glycerin, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone, Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Stearic Acid, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol, Polysorbate 60, Allantoin, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Squalane, Tocopheryl Acetate, Hydrolyzed Silk, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hydrastis Canadensis Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia Flower Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Thymus Vulgaris Flower/Leaf Extract, Sodium Hydroxide

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer is a synthetic polymer. It is used to thicken, emulsify, and improve the texture of products.

As an emulsifier, it helps stabilize oil-in-water emulsions to give products an elegant feel when applied.

It can also form a thin protective film on skin. One study found that a formula using this polymer helped slow down how quickly other ingredients (like DEET) were absorbed through skin.

A 2024 study of over 1,300 patients confirmed that sensitization to this ingredient is rare. It is also non-mutagenic and has a clean track record.

Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.

What it does:

Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:

Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.

Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.

This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.

Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.

Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.

It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.

One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.

Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.

Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.

The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.

Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Side-by-side

  1. 01Water
  2. 02Propanediol
  3. 03Glycerin
  4. 04Butylene Glycol
  5. 05PPG-6-Decyltetradeceth-30
  6. 06PEG-240/Hdi Copolymer Bis-Decyltetradeceth-20 Ether
  7. 07PEG/PPG/Polybutylene Glycol-8/5/3 Glycerin
  8. 08Ceramide NP
  9. 09Ceramide AP
  10. 10Potassium Laurate
  11. 11Ceramide EOP
  12. 12Carbomer
  13. 13Niacinamide
  14. 14Sodium Hydroxide
  15. 15Sodium Citrate
  16. 16Sodium Hyaluronate
  17. 17Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
  18. 18Cholesterol
  19. 19Phenoxyethanol
  20. 20Chlorphenesin
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

Product

PCA Skin Pigment Bar

PCA Skin Pigment Bar PCA Skin Pigment Bar ingredients explained: Water/Aqua/Eau, Saponins, Glycerin, Vegetable Oil, Sorbitol, Lecithin, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder, Kojic Acid, Azela…

Source: incidecoder.comView reference →

Product

PCA Skin Intensive Clarify Solution

PCA Skin Intensive Clarify Solution PCA Skin Intensive Clarify Solution ingredients explained: Salicylic Acid (2.0%), Water/Aqua/Eau, Glycerin, PEG-12 Glyceryl Dimyristate, Cyclopentasiloxa…

Source: incidecoder.comView reference →
03

Comparison edit

Read side by side