Skin science article
Cos De BAHA Peptide Complex Facial Cream with Matrixyl 3000 & Argireline Versus PURITO B5 Panthenol Re-Barrier Cream
Cos De BAHA Peptide Complex Facial Cream with Matrixyl 3000 & Argireline Versus PURITO B5 Panthenol Re-Barrier Cream This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 to soften the look of wrinkles. This barrier
Cos De BAHA Peptide Complex Facial Cream with Matrixyl 3000 & Argireline Versus PURITO B5 Panthenol Re-Barrier Cream
This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 to soften the look of wrinkles.
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Centella Asiatica Extract and Panthenol to strengthen the skin barrier and calm redness.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
Propanediol
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Niacinamide
1,2-Hexanediol
Cetearyl Olivate
Cetearyl Alcohol
Glyceryl Stearate
Sorbitan Olivate
Panthenol
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Tocopheryl Acetate
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
Caffeine
Allantoin
Sodium Hyaluronate
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Squalane
Ceramide NP
Adenosine
Rosa Damascena Extract
Lavandula Angustifolia Flower Extract
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Melissa Officinalis Leaf Extract
Artemisia Vulgaris Extract
Sorbitan Isostearate
Polysorbate 60
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Propanediol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Niacinamide, 1,2-Hexanediol, Cetearyl Olivate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Sorbitan Olivate, Panthenol, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Tocopheryl Acetate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Caffeine, Allantoin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Squalane, Ceramide NP, Adenosine, Rosa Damascena Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia Flower Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Melissa Officinalis Leaf Extract, Artemisia Vulgaris Extract, Sorbitan Isostearate, Polysorbate 60, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Centella Asiatica Extract
Panthenol 10%
Butylene Glycol
Water
Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Hydroxyacetophenone
Tromethamine
Ethylhexylglycerin
Disodium EDTA
Xanthan Gum
Madecassoside
Asiaticoside
Asiatic Acid
Copper Tripeptide-1
Madecassic Acid
Centella Asiatica Extract, Panthenol 10%, Squalane, Butylene Glycol, Water, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Hydroxyacetophenone, Tromethamine, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Disodium EDTA, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Hyaluronate, Madecassoside, Asiaticoside, Asiatic Acid, Copper Tripeptide-1, Madecassic Acid
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate comes from licorice root.
Extracts of licorice have demonstrated to have antibacterial, anti‐inflammatory, antiviral, antioxidant properties.
One component, glabridin, has extra potent antioxidant and soothing properties. It has also been found to block pigmentation from UVB rays in guinea pigs.
Licorice Root also contains a flavonoid. Flavonoids are a natural substance from in plants. Flavonoids also have antioxidant properties.
Another component, glycyrrhizin, has been found to have anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial benefits. This may make licorice root extract effective at treating acne. However, more research is needed to support this.
Liquiritin is one of the flavone compounds found in licorice. It has been found to help lighten skin by preventing tyrosinase from reacting with tyrosine. When the two react, protein is converted to melanin. Melanin is the substance in your body that gives your features pigmentation.
Licorice root is native to Southern Europe and Asia. It has been used in traditional Chinese medicine to help with respiratory issues.
Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Squalane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).
It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.
This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.
Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.
Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.
No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).
Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.
This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.
Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.
Read more about squalene with an "e".
Though squalane is often called an oil, it’s technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.
The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.
Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.
A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.
The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.