Skin science article
Cos De BAHA Peptide Complex Facial Cream with Matrixyl 3000 & Argireline Versus The Ordinary Multi-Peptide + HA Serum
Cos De BAHA Peptide Complex Facial Cream with Matrixyl 3000 & Argireline Versus The Ordinary Multi-Peptide + HA Serum This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 to soften the look of wrinkles. This anti-a
Cos De BAHA Peptide Complex Facial Cream with Matrixyl 3000 & Argireline Versus The Ordinary Multi-Peptide + HA Serum
This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 to soften the look of wrinkles.
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Lactococcus Ferment Lysate and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
Propanediol
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Niacinamide
1,2-Hexanediol
Cetearyl Olivate
Cetearyl Alcohol
Glyceryl Stearate
Sorbitan Olivate
Panthenol
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Tocopheryl Acetate
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
Caffeine
Allantoin
Sodium Hyaluronate
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Squalane
Ceramide NP
Adenosine
Rosa Damascena Extract
Lavandula Angustifolia Flower Extract
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Melissa Officinalis Leaf Extract
Artemisia Vulgaris Extract
Sorbitan Isostearate
Polysorbate 60
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Propanediol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Niacinamide, 1,2-Hexanediol, Cetearyl Olivate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Sorbitan Olivate, Panthenol, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Tocopheryl Acetate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Caffeine, Allantoin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Squalane, Ceramide NP, Adenosine, Rosa Damascena Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia Flower Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Melissa Officinalis Leaf Extract, Artemisia Vulgaris Extract, Sorbitan Isostearate, Polysorbate 60, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Water
Glycerin
Lactococcus Ferment Lysate
Pentapeptide-18
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38
Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate
Acetylarginyltryptophyl Diphenylglycine
Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
Glycine
Alanine
Serine
Valine
Isoleucine
Proline
Threonine
Histidine
Phenylalanine
Arginine
Aspartic Acid
Trehalose
Fructose
Glucose
Maltose
Urea
Sodium PCA
PCA
Sodium Lactate
Citric Acid
Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
Sodium Chloride
Sodium Hydroxide
Butylene Glycol
Pentylene Glycol
Acacia Senegal Gum
Xanthan Gum
Carbomer
Polysorbate 20
PPG-26-Buteth-26
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Ethoxydiglycol
Sodium Benzoate
Caprylyl Glycol
Ethylhexylglycerin
Phenoxyethanol
Chlorphenesin
Water, Glycerin, Lactococcus Ferment Lysate, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Pentapeptide-18, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate, Acetylarginyltryptophyl Diphenylglycine, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Sodium Hyaluronate, Allantoin, Glycine, Alanine, Serine, Valine, Isoleucine, Proline, Threonine, Histidine, Phenylalanine, Arginine, Aspartic Acid, Trehalose, Fructose, Glucose, Maltose, Urea, Sodium PCA, PCA, Sodium Lactate, Citric Acid, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Sodium Chloride, Sodium Hydroxide, Butylene Glycol, Pentylene Glycol, Acacia Senegal Gum, Xanthan Gum, Carbomer, Polysorbate 20, PPG-26-Buteth-26, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Ethoxydiglycol, Sodium Benzoate, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (also known as Argireline) is a synthetic hexapeptide that is often called a "topical Botox alternative".
It works by mimicking how Botox relaxes muscles; it interferes with the signaling process that tells your facial muscles to contract. This can help soften expression lines like forehead wrinkles or crow's feet over time.
The comparison to Botox does have limits because the molecule is water-loving and relatively large.
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 has a hard time absorbing deeply enough through the skin's outer barrier to actually reach the muscles.
So whether it truly works the way Botox does at a biological level is still up for debate, but early clinical outcomes are fairly encouraging.
A 12 week human study of a multi-ingredient regimen containing this ingredient saw:
While some studies have observed improvements in wrinkle appearance, it is important to note that more consistent results are seen in multi-ingredient formulations (vs just Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 alone).
Some research studies also used higher concentrations (up to 10%) while this ingredient is usually found in concentrations up to 0.005% in leave-on formulations.
Allantoin is a soothing ingredient known for its protective and moisturizing properties; it's basically a quiet workhorse ingredient you can find in a huge range of cosmetics.
Though it can be derived from the comfrey plant, allantoin is produced synthetically for cosmetic products to ensure purity.
Research shows it can encourage your skin cells to turn over and renew by stimulating keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation.
It also has mild keratolytic properties to help loosen and shed dead skin cells without being harsh.
Studies also suggest allantoin can help calm inflammation by dialing down some of the chemical signals your skin sends out when it is irritated.
This ingredient is typically used in the 0.1-0.5% range, and the FDA recognizes it as a skin protectant in OTC products up to 2%.
Overall, allantoin is a wonderful addition to most routines; it is stable across a wide pH range (~4-8), works well with other ingredients, and is considered non-sensitizing/non-irritating.
Fun fact: Allantoin is naturally occurring in comfrey root, beets, chamomile, and wheat sprouts. Our bodies even produce it as a byproduct of uric acid metabolism.
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 (formerly Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-3) is a synthetic peptide. Its main job is to fight what researchers call "inflammaging".
"Inflammaging" is the slow, low-grade chronic inflammation that quietly breaks down collagen as we age.
This ingredient calms down a specific inflammation signal in your skin cells (called IL-6). When left unchecked, this signal triggers enzymes that break down collagen and elastin.
Clinical testing showed statistically significant improvements in:
Studies also found the more of this ingredient used, the more your skin produces Collagen I, fibronectin, and hyaluronic acid.
You'll likely see this ingredient paired with Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 in the well-known Matrixyl 3000 complex for enhanced anti-aging effects.
A 3% concentration applied twice daily for two months showed meaningful skin rejuvenation results in clinical panels.
Fungal acne note: Usually a palmitic acid component can feed Malassezia in unbound form, but here is is covalently bonded to the peptide. This means it is very difficult for Malassezia to access, and therefore very unlikely to cause fungal acne.
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 (aka Pal-GHK) is a synthetic signal peptide made of three amino acids attached to palmitic acid.
That fatty acid attachment is the key: it boosts the peptide's ability to penetrate the skin barrier. This puts it closer to the dermal cells where it can actually make a difference.
Once there, it acts as a matrikine, a signaling peptide that prompts fibroblasts to produce more collagen, fibronectin, and hyaluronic acid.
In vitro studies show it can boost collagen production in skin cells even when UV-damaged skin samples were treated with it at a tiny concentration (it almost fully restored dermal collagen at 5ppm). It achieved this at 100x lower concentration than retinoic acid, which needed 500 ppm to do the same thing.
Human clinical data is promising, but modest:
A study of 23 female volunteers found a small but statistically significant increase (~4%) in skin thickness after treatment at 4 ppm.
A separate small trial of 15 women showed statistically significant reductions in wrinkle length, depth, and skin roughness after applying it twice daily for four weeks.
You'll likely see Pal-GHK paired with Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 as part of the Matrixyl 3000 complex.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.