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Skin science article

COSRX BHA Blackhead Power Liquid Versus Paula's Choice Calm 1% BHA Sensitive Skin Exfoliant

COSRX BHA Blackhead Power Liquid Versus Paula's Choice Calm 1% BHA Sensitive Skin Exfoliant This pore-care exfoliator is formulated around Salix Alba Bark Water and Betaine Salicylate to refine the look of pores and clear breakouts. This smoothing exfoliator i

By Peptide Skincare & Beauty Editorial TeamPublished

COSRX BHA Blackhead Power Liquid Versus Paula's Choice Calm 1% BHA Sensitive Skin Exfoliant

This pore-care exfoliator is formulated around Salix Alba Bark Water and Betaine Salicylate to refine the look of pores and clear breakouts.

This smoothing exfoliator is formulated around Salicylic Acid and Allantoin to refine skin texture and calm redness.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Salix Alba Bark Water

Butylene Glycol

Betaine Salicylate

Niacinamide

1,2-Hexanediol

Arginine

Panthenol

Sodium Hyaluronate

Xanthan Gum

Ethyl Hexanediol

Salix Alba Bark Water, Butylene Glycol, Betaine Salicylate, Niacinamide, 1,2-Hexanediol, Arginine, Panthenol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Xanthan Gum, Ethyl Hexanediol

Water

Methylpropanediol

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

C15-19 Alkane

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Salicylic Acid

Propanediol

Inulin

Caprylyl Glycol

Allantoin

Tocopherol

Sodium Hydroxide

Ethylhexylglycerin

Hexylene Glycol

Sorbitan Isostearate

Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide

Glycerin

Laminaria Digitata Extract

Albatrellus Confluens Extract

Glycine Soja Oil

Opuntia Ficus-Indica Stem Extract

Galactoarabinan

Citric Acid

Schizophyllan

Maltodextrin

Phenoxyethanol

Water, Methylpropanediol, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, C15-19 Alkane, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Salicylic Acid, Propanediol, Inulin, Caprylyl Glycol, Allantoin, Tocopherol, Sodium Hydroxide, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hexylene Glycol, Sorbitan Isostearate, Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide, Glycerin, Laminaria Digitata Extract, Albatrellus Confluens Extract, Glycine Soja Oil, Opuntia Ficus-Indica Stem Extract, Galactoarabinan, Citric Acid, Schizophyllan, Maltodextrin, Phenoxyethanol

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The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
  4. 04Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
  5. 05Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
  6. 06Coco-Caprylate/Caprate is a lightweight ester created from coconut oil fatty acids, caprylic acid, and capric acid.
  7. 07It is an emollient that helps soften skin and reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL). What sets it apart from heavier emollients is its ultralight, non-greasy feel.
  8. 08Once applied, this ingredient dries down quickly and leaves a dry, silky finish behind. This also helps improve spreadability and texture.
  9. 09This ingredient has an excellent safety-record and is non-irritating.
  10. 10Typical concentrations for cosmetics range from 0.5-62%.
  11. 11Research on Malassezia growth found no growth on fatty acid esters with chain lengths shorter than 12 carbons (it prefers C11-24).
  12. 12Since Coco-Caprylate/Caprate is built on C8 and C10 fatty acids, it is out of the range that Malassezia metabolizes, and therefore safe for fungal acne.
  13. 13Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
  14. 14The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure …
  15. 15Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
  16. 16Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
  17. 17Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
  18. 18Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
  19. 19Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
  20. 20This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Source · skinsort.com ⟶
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Comparison edit

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