COSRX Hydrium Moisture Power Enriched Cream Versus Beauty of Joseon Dynasty Cream (Old Formulation)

COSRX Hydrium Moisture Power Enriched Cream Versus Beauty of Joseon Dynasty Cream (Old Formulation)

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Panthenol and Propolis Extract to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Adenosine to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Ethylhexyl Stearate

Vinyldimethicone

Pentylene Glycol

Cocos Nucifera Oil

1,2-Hexanediol

Cetearyl Alcohol

Panthenol

Polymethylsilsesquioxane

Arachidyl Alcohol

Propolis Extract

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Polyglyceryl-6 Stearate

Butylene Glycol

Carbomer

Behenyl Alcohol

Glyceryl Stearate

Tromethamine

Dimethiconol

Caprylyl Glycol

Arachidyl Glucoside

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Ceramide NP

Ethylhexylglycerin

Xanthan Gum

Sucrose Stearate

Polyglyceryl-6 Behenate

Sodium Polyacrylate Starch

Stearic Acid

Palmitic Acid

Sodium Hyaluronate

Cholesterol

Hyaluronic Acid

Glycosphingolipids

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Water, Glycerin, Ethylhexyl Stearate, Vinyldimethicone, Pentylene Glycol, Cocos Nucifera Oil, 1,2-Hexanediol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Panthenol, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Arachidyl Alcohol, Propolis Extract, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Polyglyceryl-6 Stearate, Butylene Glycol, Carbomer, Behenyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Tromethamine, Dimethiconol, Caprylyl Glycol, Arachidyl Glucoside, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Ceramide NP, Ethylhexylglycerin, Xanthan Gum, Sucrose Stearate, Polyglyceryl-6 Behenate, Sodium Polyacrylate Starch, Stearic Acid, Palmitic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Cholesterol, Hyaluronic Acid, Glycosphingolipids, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Niacinamide

Dipentaerythrityl Hexa C5-9 Acid Esters

Cyclopentasiloxane

Cyclohexasiloxane

Polyacrylate-13

Polyisobutene

Polysorbate 20

C14-28 Alkyl Acid

Stearyl Alcohol

Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Dimethicone

Adenosine

Glyceryl Stearate Se

Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate

Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone

Tocopheryl Acetate

Sodium Polyacrylate

Olea Europaea Fruit Oil

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Centella Asiatica Extract

Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil

Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Trehalose

Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract

Caprylhydroxamic Acid

Raphanus Sativus Leaf Extract

Oryza Sativa Bran Extract

Cucurbitaceae Extract

Orchid Extract

Honey Extract

Panax Ginseng Root Extract

Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil

Phytosphingosine

Ceteareth-20

Glyceryl Citrate/Lactate/Linoleate/Oleate

Parfum

Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Dipentaerythrityl Hexa C5-9 Acid Esters, Sodium Hyaluronate, Xanthan Gum, Cyclopentasiloxane, Cyclohexasiloxane, Polyacrylate-13, Polyisobutene, Polysorbate 20, Hydrogenated Lecithin, C14-28 Alkyl Acid, Stearyl Alcohol, Behenyl Alcohol, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone, Adenosine, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Cetearyl Alcohol, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone, Stearic Acid, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sodium Polyacrylate, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Centella Asiatica Extract, Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Ceramide NP, Trehalose, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, 1,2-Hexanediol, Raphanus Sativus Leaf Extract, Oryza Sativa Bran Extract, Cucurbitaceae Extract, Orchid Extract, Honey Extract, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Phytosphingosine, Ceteareth-20, Glyceryl Citrate/Lactate/Linoleate/Oleate, Parfum

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Behenyl Alcohol is a type of fatty alcohol (these are different from the drying, solvent alcohols).

Fatty Alcohols have hydrating properties and are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product. They are usually derived from natural fats and oils; behenyl alcohol is derived from the fats of vegetable oils.

Emollients help keep your skin soft and hydrated by creating a film that traps moisture in.

In 2000, Behenyl Alcohol was approved by the US as medicine to reduce the duration of cold sores.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Ceramide NP (formerly known as Ceramide 3) is one of the skin's naturally occurring lipids.

Since ceramides are the major lipid components of the skin, they are crucial for maintaining skin barrier and hydration. Ceramide NP most closely mirrors the dominant kind in human skin amongst ceramide subtypes.

This ceramide works by slotting into gaps within the stratum corneum's lipid matrix to limit trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and shield the skin against external irritants.

A study with 312 patients found that using a ceramide-containing routine for 4 weeks reduced the severity of atopic dermatitis by over 61%.

Another clinical study in subjects aged 60 and older found that a ceramide body wash and moisturizer improved skin dryness and itchy skin in 15 days.

Overall, ceramides are considered non-irritating and safety tests have found little to no observable adverse effects from using this ingredient.

Ceramide NP is usually sourced from plants (like soybean or rice bran), or produced synthetically.

Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.

Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.

It plays several roles in a formula:

Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.

Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.

However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.

Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.

Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.

Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.

This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.

A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Hydrogenated Lecithin is a more stable version of lecithin.

It's made by taking lecithin (a phospholipid commonly found in soybeans and egg yolks) and hydrogenating it. This just means the unsaturated fatty acids are turned into saturated ones so they don't go bad as easily.

This ingredient is an emollient, emulsifier, and penetration enhancer. As an emollient, it helps soften and hydrate skin by trapping moisture within. As an emulsifier, it prevents oil and water ingredients from separating.

Hydrogenated Lecithin can form tiny spherical structures made of phospholipid bilayers called liposomes. These liposomes are able to capture compounds inside their structure and deliver them through the skin barrier.

Because phospholipids are a natural component of our cell membranes, this ingredient is inherently compatible with skin.

A 2021 study found lecithin-based surfactants were less harsh and more tolerable comared to Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS).

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Stearic Acid is a fatty acid that is already found in your skin. It's one of the free fatty acids that works alongside ceramides and cholesterols to maintain your barrier.

In cosmetics, it is a multitasker:

Safety-wise, the CIR Expert Panel has concluded it to be safe in cosmetics when formulated to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing.

Free stearic acid is a C18 fatty acid that the Malassezia yeast can substrate, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

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