COSRX Real Fit Retinol Serum Versus PCA Skin Intensive Brightening Treatment 0.5 Pure Retinol Night

COSRX Real Fit Retinol Serum Versus PCA Skin Intensive Brightening Treatment 0.5 Pure Retinol Night

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Calendula Officinalis Extract and Retinyl Palmitate to soften the look of wrinkles and fade the look of dark spots.

This brightening treatment is formulated around Niacinamide and Retinol to fade the look of dark spots and refine skin texture.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Calendula Officinalis Extract

Butylene Glycol

Glycerin

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

1,2-Hexanediol

Polysorbate 60

Betaine

Dimethicone

Cetearyl Alcohol

Retinyl Palmitate

Cetearyl Olivate

Panthenol

Arachis Hypogaea Oil

Sorbitan Olivate

Allantoin

Tocopheryl Acetate

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Xanthan Gum

Juniperus Mexicana Oil

Ethylhexylglycerin

Adenosine

Tocopherol

Calendula Officinalis Extract, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, 1,2-Hexanediol, Polysorbate 60, Betaine, Dimethicone, Cetearyl Alcohol, Retinyl Palmitate, Cetearyl Olivate, Panthenol, Arachis Hypogaea Oil, Sorbitan Olivate, Allantoin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Xanthan Gum, Juniperus Mexicana Oil, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Tocopherol

Water

Isododecane

Cyclopentasiloxane

Niacinamide

Propanediol

PEG-12 Glyceryl Dimyristate

Tapioca Starch Polymethylsilsesquioxane

Hydroxyphenoxy Propionic Acid

Pentylene Glycol

Polysilicone-11

Glyceryl Stearate

PEG-100 Stearate

Hexylresorcinol

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Resveratrol

Phenoxyethanol

Retinol

Polysorbate 20

Sodium Polyacrylate

Caprylyl Glycol

Ethylhexyl Stearate

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

Chlorphenesin

Sodium Citrate

Trideceth-6

Disodium EDTA

Decyl Glucoside

Aminomethyl Propanol

Water, Isododecane, Cyclopentasiloxane, Niacinamide, Propanediol, Dimethicone, PEG-12 Glyceryl Dimyristate, Glycerin, Tapioca Starch Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Cetearyl Alcohol, Hydroxyphenoxy Propionic Acid, Pentylene Glycol, Polysilicone-11, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Hexylresorcinol, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Resveratrol, Phenoxyethanol, Retinol, Polysorbate 20, Butylene Glycol, Sodium Polyacrylate, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexyl Stearate, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Xanthan Gum, Chlorphenesin, Sodium Citrate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Trideceth-6, Disodium EDTA, Decyl Glucoside, Aminomethyl Propanol

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.

Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.

It plays several roles in a formula:

Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.

Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.

However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.

Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.

Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.

Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.

This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.

A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.

Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.

What it does:

Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:

Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.

Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.

This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.

Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.

Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.

It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.

One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.

Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.

Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.

The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.

Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

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