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D'Alba Peptide No Sebum Repair Cream Versus The INKEY List Peptide Moisturizer

D'Alba Peptide No Sebum Repair Cream Versus The INKEY List Peptide Moisturizer This oil-control moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to balance excess oil and strengthen the skin barrier. What's inside Key Ingredients Benefits

D'Alba Peptide No Sebum Repair Cream Versus The INKEY List Peptide Moisturizer

This oil-control moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to balance excess oil and strengthen the skin barrier.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Butylene Glycol

Glycerin

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Squalane

1,2-Hexanediol

Niacinamide

Cetearyl Olivate

Sorbitan Olivate

Dimethicone

Cetearyl Alcohol

Cetearyl Glucoside

Carbomer

Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose

Artemisia Annua Extract

Nelumbo Nucifera Flower Extract

Oryza Sativa Extract

Saccharomyces Ferment

Arginine

Octyldodecanol

Panthenol

Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Lavandula Angustifolia Oil

Pullulan

Tuber Magnatum Extract

Calamine

Centella Asiatica Extract

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Tocopheryl Acetate

Ethylhexylglycerin

Adenosine

Sodium Hyaluronate

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Pentylene Glycol

Ceramide NP

Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract

Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract

Biosaccharide Gum-1

Alkanna Tinctoria Root Extract

Caprylyl Glycol

Betaine Salicylate

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract

Porphyridium Cruentum Extract

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract

Glucose

Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Hyaluronic Acid

Tocopherol

Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate

Water, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Squalane, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Dimethicone, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Glucoside, Carbomer, Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose, Artemisia Annua Extract, Nelumbo Nucifera Flower Extract, Oryza Sativa Extract, Saccharomyces Ferment, Arginine, Octyldodecanol, Panthenol, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Pullulan, Tuber Magnatum Extract, Calamine, Centella Asiatica Extract, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Pentylene Glycol, Ceramide NP, Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Alkanna Tinctoria Root Extract, Caprylyl Glycol, Betaine Salicylate, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Porphyridium Cruentum Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Glucose, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Hyaluronic Acid, Tocopherol, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

Glyceryl Stearate Se

Betaine

Phenoxyethanol

Benzyl Alcohol

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate

Sodium Hydroxide

Sodium Gluconate

Dehydroacetic Acid

Phenethyl Alcohol

Acetyl Hexapeptide-37

Maltodextrin

Pentapeptide-48

Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Betaine, Butylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Benzyl Alcohol, Carbomer, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Sodium Hydroxide, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Gluconate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Dehydroacetic Acid, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Phenethyl Alcohol, Acetyl Hexapeptide-37, Maltodextrin, Pentapeptide-48

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.

Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.

It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.

Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.

A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.

Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.

Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.

It plays several roles in a formula:

Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.

Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.

However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.

Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.

Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.

Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.

This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.

A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Hydrogenated Lecithin is a more stable version of lecithin.

It's made by taking lecithin (a phospholipid commonly found in soybeans and egg yolks) and hydrogenating it. This just means the unsaturated fatty acids are turned into saturated ones so they don't go bad as easily.

This ingredient is an emollient, emulsifier, and penetration enhancer. As an emollient, it helps soften and hydrate skin by trapping moisture within. As an emulsifier, it prevents oil and water ingredients from separating.

Hydrogenated Lecithin can form tiny spherical structures made of phospholipid bilayers called liposomes. These liposomes are able to capture compounds inside their structure and deliver them through the skin barrier.

Because phospholipids are a natural component of our cell membranes, this ingredient is inherently compatible with skin.

A 2021 study found lecithin-based surfactants were less harsh and more tolerable comared to Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS).

Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.

Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.

It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.

One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.

Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.

Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.

The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.

Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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Product index

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Comparison edit

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