Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

D'Alba Waterfull Essence Sunscreen SPF50+ PA++++ Versus Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun Aqua-Fresh Rice + B5 SPF 50+

D'Alba Waterfull Essence Sunscreen SPF50+ PA++++ Versus Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun Aqua-Fresh Rice + B5 SPF 50+ This chemical sunscreen covers most of the UV range, lighter on the deep UVA that drives aging. This chemical sunscreen covers the full UV range an

D'Alba Waterfull Essence Sunscreen SPF50+ PA++++ Versus Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun Aqua-Fresh Rice + B5 SPF 50+

This chemical sunscreen covers most of the UV range, lighter on the deep UVA that drives aging.

This chemical sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~98% of UVB at SPF 50.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Homosalate

Octocrylene

Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate

Ethylhexyl Salicylate

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane

Water

Propanediol

Butyloctyl Salicylate

Ceramide AP

1,2-Hexanediol

Pentylene Glycol

Silica

Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

Glycerin

Vp/Eicosene Copolymer

Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Oil

Polyurethane-15

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Oil

Inulin Lauryl Carbamate

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6

Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose Stearoxy Ether

Ethylhexylglycerin

Citrus Nobilis Peel Oil

Butylene Glycol

Litsea Cubeba Fruit Oil

BHT

Tocopherol

Panthenol

Ceramide NP

Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate

Sodium Hyaluronate

Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Water

Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract

Centella Asiatica Extract

Homosalate, Octocrylene, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Water, Propanediol, Butyloctyl Salicylate, Ceramide AP, 1,2-Hexanediol, Pentylene Glycol, Silica, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Glycerin, Vp/Eicosene Copolymer, Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Oil, Polyurethane-15, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Oil, Inulin Lauryl Carbamate, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose Stearoxy Ether, Ethylhexylglycerin, Citrus Nobilis Peel Oil, Butylene Glycol, Litsea Cubeba Fruit Oil, BHT, Tocopherol, Panthenol, Ceramide NP, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Water, Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract

Oryza Sativa Seed Water

Dibutyl Adipate

Ethylhexyl Triazone

Drometrizole Trisiloxane

Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate

Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid

Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate

Polymethylsilsesquioxane

Tromethamine

Glyceryl Stearate

Caprylyl Methicone

Avena Sativa Kernel Extract

Cynara Scolymus Leaf Extract

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Oryza Sativa Bran Oil

Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine

Potassium Cetyl Phosphate

Poly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate

Methylpropanediol

Carbomer

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Xanthan Gum

Polyether-1

Polyquaternium-51

Beta-Glucan

Biosaccharide Gum-1

Inositol

Ferulic Acid

Citric Acid

Phytosphingosine

Rice Amino Acids

Rice Sh-Oligopeptide-1

Water, Oryza Sativa Seed Water, Dibutyl Adipate, Butyloctyl Salicylate, Ethylhexyl Triazone, 1,2-Hexanediol, Drometrizole Trisiloxane, Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate, Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Tromethamine, Panthenol, Pentylene Glycol, Glyceryl Stearate, Silica, Caprylyl Methicone, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Cynara Scolymus Leaf Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Oryza Sativa Bran Oil, Sodium Hyaluronate, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Propanediol, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Poly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate, Methylpropanediol, Carbomer, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Xanthan Gum, Glycerin, Polyether-1, Polyquaternium-51, Beta-Glucan, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Inositol, Tocopherol, Ferulic Acid, Citric Acid, Ceramide NP, Phytosphingosine, Rice Amino Acids, Rice Sh-Oligopeptide-1

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Butyloctyl Salicylate is a chemical UV filter structurally similar to octisalate. It is a photostabilizer, SPF booster, emollient and solvent. This ingredient helps evenly spread out ingredients.

According to a manufacturer, it is suitable for pairing with micro Titanium Dioxide, Zinc Oxide, and pigments.

Photostabilizers help stabilize UV-filters and prevents them from degrading quickly.

Ceramide NP (formerly known as Ceramide 3) is one of the skin's naturally occurring lipids.

Since ceramides are the major lipid components of the skin, they are crucial for maintaining skin barrier and hydration. Ceramide NP most closely mirrors the dominant kind in human skin amongst ceramide subtypes.

This ceramide works by slotting into gaps within the stratum corneum's lipid matrix to limit trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and shield the skin against external irritants.

A study with 312 patients found that using a ceramide-containing routine for 4 weeks reduced the severity of atopic dermatitis by over 61%.

Another clinical study in subjects aged 60 and older found that a ceramide body wash and moisturizer improved skin dryness and itchy skin in 15 days.

Overall, ceramides are considered non-irritating and safety tests have found little to no observable adverse effects from using this ingredient.

Ceramide NP is usually sourced from plants (like soybean or rice bran), or produced synthetically.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.

There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.

D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.

Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):

Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.

This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.

Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.

This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.

Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:

Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.

On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.

Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Silica, also known as silicon dioxide, is a naturally occurring mineral. It is used as a fine, spherical, and porous powder in cosmetics.

Though it has exfoliant properties, the function of silica varies depending on the product.

The unique structure of silica enhances the spreadability and adds smoothness, making it a great texture enhancer.

It is also used as an active carrier, emulsifier, and mattifier due to its ability to absorb excess oil.

In some products, tiny microneedles called spicules are made from silica or hydrolyzed sponge. When you rub them in, they lightly polish away dead skin layers and enhance the penetration of active ingredients.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 031,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
  4. 04It is a:
  5. 05Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
  6. 06Emollient, helping to soften skin
  7. 07Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
  8. 08Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
  9. 09Allantoin is a soothing ingredient known for its protective and moisturizing properties; it's basically a quiet workhorse ingredient you can find in a huge range of cosmetics.
  10. 10Though it can be derived from the comfrey plant, allantoin is produced synthetically for cosmetic products to ensure purity.
  11. 11Research shows it can encourage your skin cells to turn over and renew by stimulating keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation.
  12. 12It also has mild keratolytic properties to help loosen and shed dead skin cells without being harsh.
  13. 13Studies also suggest allantoin can help calm inflammation by dialing down some of the chemical signals your skin sends out when it is irritated.
  14. 14This ingredient is typically used in the 0.1-0.5% range, and the FDA recognizes it as a skin protectant in OTC products up to 2%.
  15. 15Overall, allantoin is a wonderful addition to most routines; it is stable across a wide pH range (~4-8), works well with other ingredients, and is considered non-sensitizing/non-irritating.
  16. 16Fun fact: Allantoin is naturally occurring in comfrey root, beets, chamomile, and wheat sprouts. Our bodies even produce it as a byproduct of uric acid metabolism.
  17. 17Cellulose is the main component of plant cell walls. It is used as an emulsifier, absorbent, and texture enhancer.
  18. 18This ingredient has many functions:
  19. 19Fun fact: Cellulose is the most abundant form of organic polymer on Earth.
  20. 20Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

Product

Beauty of Joseon Glow Deep Serum

Beauty of Joseon Glow Deep Serum Beauty of Joseon Glow Deep Serum ingredients explained: Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Water(68.6 %), Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Dipropylen…

Source: incidecoder.comView reference →
03

Comparison edit

Read side by side