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Skin science article

D'Alba Waterfull Tone-up Sunscreen SPF50+ PA++++ Versus Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun Aqua-Fresh Rice + B5 SPF 50+

D'Alba Waterfull Tone-up Sunscreen SPF50+ PA++++ Versus Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun Aqua-Fresh Rice + B5 SPF 50+ This hybrid sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~98% of UVB at SPF 50. This chemical sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~98% o

D'Alba Waterfull Tone-up Sunscreen SPF50+ PA++++ Versus Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun Aqua-Fresh Rice + B5 SPF 50+

This hybrid sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~98% of UVB at SPF 50.

This chemical sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~98% of UVB at SPF 50.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Dibutyl Adipate

Propanediol

Titanium Dioxide

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate

Caprylyl Methicone

Ethylhexyl Triazone

Niacinamide

Glycerin

Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone

1,2-Hexanediol

Pentylene Glycol

Portulaca Oleracea Extract

Epilobium Angustifolium Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract

Rhododendron Ferrugineum Extract

Centella Asiatica Extract

Prunus Persica Flower Extract

Prunus Persica Fruit Extract

Prunus Serrulata Flower Extract

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract

Houttuynia Cordata Extract

Tuber Magnatum Extract

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Oil

Citrus Nobilis Peel Oil

Sodium Hyaluronate

Litsea Cubeba Fruit Oil

Rosa Damascena Flower Water

Betula Platyphylla Japonica Juice

Panthenol

Polyhydroxystearic Acid

Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Vp/Eicosene Copolymer

Dimethiconol

Trisiloxane

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Stearic Acid

Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate

Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate

Alumina

Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose Stearoxy Ether

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

Xanthan Gum

Ethylhexylglycerin

Adenosine

Sodium Polyacrylate

Triethoxycaprylylsilane

T-Butyl Alcohol

Pvm/Ma Copolymer

Polyether-1

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Allantoin

Butylene Glycol

Tocopherol

Disodium Phosphate

Citric Acid

Caprylyl Glycol

CI 77492

CI 77491

Limonene

Citral

Water, Dibutyl Adipate, Propanediol, Titanium Dioxide, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, Caprylyl Methicone, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Niacinamide, Glycerin, Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, 1,2-Hexanediol, Pentylene Glycol, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Epilobium Angustifolium Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Rhododendron Ferrugineum Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Prunus Persica Flower Extract, Prunus Persica Fruit Extract, Prunus Serrulata Flower Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Houttuynia Cordata Extract, Tuber Magnatum Extract, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Oil, Citrus Nobilis Peel Oil, Sodium Hyaluronate, Litsea Cubeba Fruit Oil, Rosa Damascena Flower Water, Betula Platyphylla Japonica Juice, Panthenol, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Vp/Eicosene Copolymer, Dimethiconol, Trisiloxane, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Stearic Acid, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Alumina, Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose Stearoxy Ether, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Xanthan Gum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Sodium Polyacrylate, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, T-Butyl Alcohol, Pvm/Ma Copolymer, Polyether-1, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Allantoin, Butylene Glycol, Tocopherol, Disodium Phosphate, Citric Acid, Caprylyl Glycol, CI 77492, CI 77491, Limonene, Citral

Oryza Sativa Seed Water

Butyloctyl Salicylate

Drometrizole Trisiloxane

Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate

Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid

Polymethylsilsesquioxane

Tromethamine

Glyceryl Stearate

Silica

Avena Sativa Kernel Extract

Cynara Scolymus Leaf Extract

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Oryza Sativa Bran Oil

Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine

Potassium Cetyl Phosphate

Poly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate

Methylpropanediol

Carbomer

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Polyquaternium-51

Beta-Glucan

Biosaccharide Gum-1

Inositol

Ferulic Acid

Ceramide NP

Phytosphingosine

Rice Amino Acids

Rice Sh-Oligopeptide-1

Water, Oryza Sativa Seed Water, Dibutyl Adipate, Butyloctyl Salicylate, Ethylhexyl Triazone, 1,2-Hexanediol, Drometrizole Trisiloxane, Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate, Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Tromethamine, Panthenol, Pentylene Glycol, Glyceryl Stearate, Silica, Caprylyl Methicone, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Cynara Scolymus Leaf Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Oryza Sativa Bran Oil, Sodium Hyaluronate, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Propanediol, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Poly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate, Methylpropanediol, Carbomer, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Xanthan Gum, Glycerin, Polyether-1, Polyquaternium-51, Beta-Glucan, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Inositol, Tocopherol, Ferulic Acid, Citric Acid, Ceramide NP, Phytosphingosine, Rice Amino Acids, Rice Sh-Oligopeptide-1

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Caprylyl Methicone is a synthetic and lightweight silicone fluid. It gives products a silky, dry-touch finish without the heaviness of pure oils.

Though the EU CosIng Database lists this ingredient as a skin conditioner, it is also used for sensory reasons. It spreads easily, cuts greasiness, and reduces tackiness.

This ingredient is volatile which means it will mostly evaporate (but it evaporates slower than older cyclomethicones, like Cyclotetrasiloxane).

Typical concentration ranges from 1-30% depending on if it's being used to tweak the feel of a product or acting as the main emollient.

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.

Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.

However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.

Dibutyl Adipate is a lightweight, oil-soluble ester that acts as an emollient and solvent. It helps products spread more easily and leaves a soft, silky, dry-touch finish without being greasy.

You'll likely see this ingredient in sunscreens because it does a nice job dissolving UV filters and keeping them evenly distributed.

This ingredient has been found to be safe as used in cosmetics, wasn't a skin or eye irritant in clinical patch testing, and wasn't phototoxic.

In a clinical comedogenicity test, this ingredient tested negative so it isn't likely to clog pores.

Typical use levels are about 5-8% for sunscreens + nail products, but can range from 0.005%-8% depending on the product.

Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate (DHHB) is a chemical UV-A absorber. It is formulated for high UVA protection (320-400 nm).

DHHB is well-liked for:

DHHB has been approved by the EU, Japan, Taiwan, and South America for use up to 10%. Unfortunately, it has not been approved for use in the US or Canada due to slow regulatory processes.

This ingredient is soluble in oils, fats, and lipids.

Ethylhexyl Triazone (aka Octyl Triazone) is an oil-soluble organic UVB filter. It has peak absorption around 314 nm, right in the middle of the UVB range.

This ingredient is described as one of the most effective UVB filters available and small concentrations are enough to deliver a high SPF thanks to its strong UV absorbing power.

Formulators love it for its stability; its ability to filter UV stays practically unchanged even under intense radiation and it can also help boost the photostability of less stable filters like avobenzone.

It's also a great pick for water resistant products because it's insoluble in water and has a good affinity for keratin.

Because it's a big, heavy molecule, the European Scientific Committee has found to to have very low dermal penetration and negative results for allergenicity.

In vitro testing also showed a low absorption rate and clean results on irritation.

Typical use levels are 1-5% with 5% being the maximum in the EU, Japan, and other markets that allow it. However, this ingredient is not approved yet in the US or Canada.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.

There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.

D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.

Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):

Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.

This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.

Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.

This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.

Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:

Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.

On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.

Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.

We don't have a description for Polyether-1 yet.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Cetearyl Olivate is a plant-derived emulsifier and texture enhancer. It helps keep the oil and water phases from separating so your formulas stay stable.
  4. 04You'll likely see it combined with Sorbitan Olivate (together sold as the trade name Olivem 1000). This combination generates a liquid crystal structure that closely resemble the lipid organization of the stratum corneum.
  5. 05These "skin-like" liquid crystals improve skin barrier integrity and promote the delivery of actives into the skin.
  6. 06This ingredient is well-tolerated and has no significant sensitization data.
  7. 07Because it is derived from the fatty acids in olive oil, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
  8. 08Cetyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol. Fatty Alcohols are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product.
  9. 09Its main roles are:
  10. 10Though it has "alcohol" in the name, it is not related to denatured alcohol or ethyl alcohol.
  11. 11The FDA allows products labeled "alcohol-free" to have fatty alcohols.
  12. 12This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. It is a primary fatty alcohol with a chain length above 12 carbons. A study from 2019 show Malassezia can feed on fatty alcohols in this range, so it may trigger fungal acne in those prone to it.
  13. 13Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
  14. 14The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure …
  15. 15Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
  16. 16Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
  17. 17Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
  18. 18Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
  19. 19Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
  20. 20This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

Product

Beauty of Joseon Dynasty Cream [2021]

Beauty of Joseon Dynasty Cream [2021] Beauty of Joseon Dynasty Cream [2021] ingredients explained: Water, Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Water, Glycerin, Panax Ginseng Root Water, Hydrogenated Po…

Source: incidecoder.comView reference →
03

Comparison edit

Read side by side