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Skin science article

Dear, Klairs Freshly Juiced Vitamin Drop Versus Beauty of Joseon Glow Serum: Propolis + Niacinamide

Dear, Klairs Freshly Juiced Vitamin Drop Versus Beauty of Joseon Glow Serum: Propolis + Niacinamide This brightening serum is formulated around Ascorbic Acid and Centella Asiatica Extract to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots. This acne

Dear, Klairs Freshly Juiced Vitamin Drop Versus Beauty of Joseon Glow Serum: Propolis + Niacinamide

This brightening serum is formulated around Ascorbic Acid and Centella Asiatica Extract to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots.

This acne serum is formulated around Propolis Extract and Niacinamide to clear breakouts and brighten dull-looking skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Propylene Glycol

Ascorbic Acid

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Citrus Junos Fruit Extract

Centella Asiatica Extract

Polysorbate 60

Illicium Verum Fruit Extract

Chaenomeles Sinensis Fruit Extract

Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract

Brassica Oleracea Italica Extract

Nelumbium Speciosum Flower Extract

Citrus Paradisi Fruit Extract

Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract

Butylene Glycol

Glycerin

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Oil

1,2-Hexanediol

Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Isohexadecane

Disodium EDTA

Lavandula Angustifolia Oil

Camellia Sinensis Callus Culture Extract

Polysorbate 80

Disodium Phosphate

Sorbitan Oleate

Chrysanthellum Indicum Extract

Asarum Sieboldii Root Extract

Quercus Mongolica Leaf Extract

Persicaria Hydropiper Extract

Larix Europaea Wood Extract

Magnolia Obovata Bark Extract

Rheum Palmatum Root Extract

Corydalis Turtschaninovii Root Extract

Coptis Chinensis Root Extract

Sodium Phosphate

Lysine Hcl

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

Acetyl Methionine

Theanine

Proline

Lecithin

Acetyl Glutamine

Bacillus/Folic Acid/Soybean Ferment Extract

Sodium Hyaluronate

Sh-Oligopeptide-1

Sh-Oligopeptide-2

Sh-Polypeptide-1

Sh-Polypeptide-11

Sh-Polypeptide-9

Caprylyl Glycol

Limonene

Water, Propylene Glycol, Ascorbic Acid, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Citrus Junos Fruit Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Polysorbate 60, Illicium Verum Fruit Extract, Chaenomeles Sinensis Fruit Extract, Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract, Brassica Oleracea Italica Extract, Nelumbium Speciosum Flower Extract, Citrus Paradisi Fruit Extract, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Oil, 1,2-Hexanediol, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Isohexadecane, Disodium EDTA, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Camellia Sinensis Callus Culture Extract, Polysorbate 80, Disodium Phosphate, Sorbitan Oleate, Chrysanthellum Indicum Extract, Asarum Sieboldii Root Extract, Quercus Mongolica Leaf Extract, Persicaria Hydropiper Extract, Larix Europaea Wood Extract, Magnolia Obovata Bark Extract, Rheum Palmatum Root Extract, Corydalis Turtschaninovii Root Extract, Coptis Chinensis Root Extract, Sodium Phosphate, Lysine Hcl, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Acetyl Methionine, Theanine, Proline, Lecithin, Acetyl Glutamine, Bacillus/Folic Acid/Soybean Ferment Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Sh-Oligopeptide-2, Sh-Polypeptide-1, Sh-Polypeptide-11, Sh-Polypeptide-9, Caprylyl Glycol, Limonene

Propolis Extract

Dipropylene Glycol

Niacinamide

Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract

Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract

Curcuma Longa Root Extract

Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract

Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract

Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract

Corallina Officinalis Extract

Lotus Corniculatus Seed Extract

Calophyllum Inophyllum Seed Oil

Betaine Salicylate

Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate

Tromethamine

Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate

Ethylhexylglycerin

Dextrin

Pentylene Glycol

Octanediol

Tocopherol

Xanthan Gum

Carbomer

Propolis Extract, Dipropylene Glycol, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Water, Niacinamide, 1,2-Hexanediol, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Lotus Corniculatus Seed Extract, Calophyllum Inophyllum Seed Oil, Betaine Salicylate, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Tromethamine, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Dextrin, Pentylene Glycol, Octanediol, Tocopherol, Xanthan Gum, Carbomer

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Centella Asiatica Extract (Centella) is one of the most researched botanical extracts in skincare with decades of studies backing its effects on inflammation, collagen, and the skin barrier.

That research keeps pointing back to the same four triterpenoid saponins: Asiaticoside, Madecassoside, Asiatic Acid, and Madecassic Acid.

These compounds allow centella to dial back inflammation, encourage the skin to build and hold onto collagen, support the barrier and hydration, and bring solid antioxidant activity to protect against signs of aging.

Centella also carries a nice supporting cast of Vitamin A, vitamin C, several B vitamins, and amino acids. Put it all together and you get an ingredient that soothes, hydrates, and protects, all at once.

Most of centella's magic comes from the four big compounds (Asiaticoside, Madecassoside, Asiatic Acid, and Madecassic Acid). These are the actives doing the heavy lifting in almost every centella study.

Here is the short version of what they do in the skin:

So it is not just soothing for the sake of soothing. Centella calms the skin AND helps it rebuild.

Just FYI, not all centella on an ingredient list is the same. What you are getting actually depends on the extract:

Fun fact on the ratios: the leaves tend to be richest in Madecassoside and Asiaticoside, and lower in the two acids. The exact amounts shift with where the plant is grown and how it is processed. This means purity really does vary brand to brand.

Centella is one of the most easygoing actives out there.

It layers well with basically everything: niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, peptides, and vitamin C, and also pairs nicely with stronger actives like retinoids and exfoliating acids where it can help take the edge off irritation.

On the safety side, centella and its triterpenes are classified as weak sensitizers, meaning allergic reactions are possible but uncommon.

Patch tests at 1% and 5% came back negative in test panels, and creams at typical use levels did not cause allergic reactions across large groups of people.

But as with any new active, a patch test is still a smart move for very reactive skin.

Centella is widely used because it is effective at low percentages. For context, human safety testing found no meaningful irritation from creams containing centella extract at everyday use levels (the tested amounts were well under 1%).

The irritancy threshold in animal testing was also above 30% (so real-world formulas sit far below anything concerning).

In collagen lab studies, higher concentrations drove more collagen synthesis, so serums built around centella tend to feature it more prominently.

Bottom line: you will find centella working nicely anywhere from a fraction of a percent up to hero-ingredient levels depending on whether it is a supporting soother or the main event.

Fun fact: Centella has been used as a medicine and in food for many centuries. As a medicine, it is used to treat burns, scratches, and wounds.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

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Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
  4. 04Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
  5. 05Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
  6. 06Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
  7. 07This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
  8. 08Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
  9. 09Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
  10. 10Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:
  11. 11Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.
  12. 12On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.
  13. 13Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.
  14. 14Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
  15. 15It’s often used to:
  16. 16Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
  17. 17Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
  18. 18So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
  19. 19You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
  20. 20Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
Source · skinsort.com
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Product index

Related product references

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Comparison edit

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