Skin science article
Dear, Klairs Freshly Juiced Vitamin Drop Versus Beauty of Joseon Revive Repair Serum: Ginseng + Snail Mucin
Dear, Klairs Freshly Juiced Vitamin Drop Versus Beauty of Joseon Revive Repair Serum: Ginseng + Snail Mucin This brightening serum is formulated around Ascorbic Acid and Centella Asiatica Extract to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots. T
Dear, Klairs Freshly Juiced Vitamin Drop Versus Beauty of Joseon Revive Repair Serum: Ginseng + Snail Mucin
This brightening serum is formulated around Ascorbic Acid and Centella Asiatica Extract to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots.
This calming serum is formulated around Panax Ginseng Root Water and Snail Secretion Filtrate to calm redness and strengthen the skin barrier.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
No concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Propylene Glycol
Ascorbic Acid
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Citrus Junos Fruit Extract
Centella Asiatica Extract
Polysorbate 60
Illicium Verum Fruit Extract
Chaenomeles Sinensis Fruit Extract
Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract
Brassica Oleracea Italica Extract
Nelumbium Speciosum Flower Extract
Citrus Paradisi Fruit Extract
Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract
Butylene Glycol
Glycerin
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Oil
1,2-Hexanediol
Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Isohexadecane
Disodium EDTA
Lavandula Angustifolia Oil
Camellia Sinensis Callus Culture Extract
Polysorbate 80
Disodium Phosphate
Sorbitan Oleate
Chrysanthellum Indicum Extract
Asarum Sieboldii Root Extract
Quercus Mongolica Leaf Extract
Persicaria Hydropiper Extract
Larix Europaea Wood Extract
Magnolia Obovata Bark Extract
Rheum Palmatum Root Extract
Corydalis Turtschaninovii Root Extract
Coptis Chinensis Root Extract
Sodium Phosphate
Lysine Hcl
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Acetyl Methionine
Theanine
Proline
Lecithin
Acetyl Glutamine
Bacillus/Folic Acid/Soybean Ferment Extract
Sodium Hyaluronate
Sh-Oligopeptide-1
Sh-Oligopeptide-2
Sh-Polypeptide-1
Sh-Polypeptide-11
Sh-Polypeptide-9
Caprylyl Glycol
Limonene
Water, Propylene Glycol, Ascorbic Acid, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Citrus Junos Fruit Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Polysorbate 60, Illicium Verum Fruit Extract, Chaenomeles Sinensis Fruit Extract, Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract, Brassica Oleracea Italica Extract, Nelumbium Speciosum Flower Extract, Citrus Paradisi Fruit Extract, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Oil, 1,2-Hexanediol, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Isohexadecane, Disodium EDTA, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Camellia Sinensis Callus Culture Extract, Polysorbate 80, Disodium Phosphate, Sorbitan Oleate, Chrysanthellum Indicum Extract, Asarum Sieboldii Root Extract, Quercus Mongolica Leaf Extract, Persicaria Hydropiper Extract, Larix Europaea Wood Extract, Magnolia Obovata Bark Extract, Rheum Palmatum Root Extract, Corydalis Turtschaninovii Root Extract, Coptis Chinensis Root Extract, Sodium Phosphate, Lysine Hcl, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Acetyl Methionine, Theanine, Proline, Lecithin, Acetyl Glutamine, Bacillus/Folic Acid/Soybean Ferment Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Sh-Oligopeptide-2, Sh-Polypeptide-1, Sh-Polypeptide-11, Sh-Polypeptide-9, Caprylyl Glycol, Limonene
Panax Ginseng Root Water
Snail Secretion Filtrate
Dipropylene Glycol
Niacinamide
Propanediol
Trehalose
Carbomer
Tromethamine
Xanthan Gum
Ganoderma Lucidum Extract
Panax Ginseng Root Extract
Malt Extract
Sodium Polyacrylate
Adenosine
Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer
Phellinus Linteus Extract
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Forsythia Suspensa Fruit Extract
Lonicera Japonica Flower Extract
Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
Panax Ginseng Root Water, Water, Butylene Glycol, Snail Secretion Filtrate, Dipropylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Propanediol, Trehalose, Carbomer, Tromethamine, Xanthan Gum, Centella Asiatica Extract, Ganoderma Lucidum Extract, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Malt Extract, Sodium Polyacrylate, Adenosine, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Disodium EDTA, Phellinus Linteus Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Forsythia Suspensa Fruit Extract, Lonicera Japonica Flower Extract, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Centella Asiatica Extract (Centella) is one of the most researched botanical extracts in skincare with decades of studies backing its effects on inflammation, collagen, and the skin barrier.
That research keeps pointing back to the same four triterpenoid saponins: Asiaticoside, Madecassoside, Asiatic Acid, and Madecassic Acid.
These compounds allow centella to dial back inflammation, encourage the skin to build and hold onto collagen, support the barrier and hydration, and bring solid antioxidant activity to protect against signs of aging.
Centella also carries a nice supporting cast of Vitamin A, vitamin C, several B vitamins, and amino acids. Put it all together and you get an ingredient that soothes, hydrates, and protects, all at once.
Most of centella's magic comes from the four big compounds (Asiaticoside, Madecassoside, Asiatic Acid, and Madecassic Acid). These are the actives doing the heavy lifting in almost every centella study.
Here is the short version of what they do in the skin:
So it is not just soothing for the sake of soothing. Centella calms the skin AND helps it rebuild.
Just FYI, not all centella on an ingredient list is the same. What you are getting actually depends on the extract:
Fun fact on the ratios: the leaves tend to be richest in Madecassoside and Asiaticoside, and lower in the two acids. The exact amounts shift with where the plant is grown and how it is processed. This means purity really does vary brand to brand.
Centella is one of the most easygoing actives out there.
It layers well with basically everything: niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, peptides, and vitamin C, and also pairs nicely with stronger actives like retinoids and exfoliating acids where it can help take the edge off irritation.
On the safety side, centella and its triterpenes are classified as weak sensitizers, meaning allergic reactions are possible but uncommon.
Patch tests at 1% and 5% came back negative in test panels, and creams at typical use levels did not cause allergic reactions across large groups of people.
But as with any new active, a patch test is still a smart move for very reactive skin.
Centella is widely used because it is effective at low percentages. For context, human safety testing found no meaningful irritation from creams containing centella extract at everyday use levels (the tested amounts were well under 1%).
The irritancy threshold in animal testing was also above 30% (so real-world formulas sit far below anything concerning).
In collagen lab studies, higher concentrations drove more collagen synthesis, so serums built around centella tend to feature it more prominently.
Bottom line: you will find centella working nicely anywhere from a fraction of a percent up to hero-ingredient levels depending on whether it is a supporting soother or the main event.
Fun fact: Centella has been used as a medicine and in food for many centuries. As a medicine, it is used to treat burns, scratches, and wounds.
Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract comes from the Baikal skullcap or Chinese skullcap plant. This plant is native to Northeast Asia and can be found in China, Mongolia, Korea, and Siberia.
In cosmetics, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract provides antioxidant and anti-inflammatory benefits. This is due to the flavonoid composition of Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract.
In Chinese traditional folk medicine, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract is used to help treat lung issues and hypertension.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!