Skin science article
Dear, Klairs Fundamental Watery Oil Drop Versus Beauty of Joseon Calming Serum: Green Tea + Panthenol
Dear, Klairs Fundamental Watery Oil Drop Versus Beauty of Joseon Calming Serum: Green Tea + Panthenol This hydrating serum is formulated around Bifida Ferment Extract and Oryza Sativa Extract to hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier. This calming serum
Dear, Klairs Fundamental Watery Oil Drop Versus Beauty of Joseon Calming Serum: Green Tea + Panthenol
This hydrating serum is formulated around Bifida Ferment Extract and Oryza Sativa Extract to hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier.
This calming serum is formulated around Panthenol and Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate to calm redness and strengthen the skin barrier.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
No concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Butylene Glycol
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water
Bifida Ferment Extract
Oryza Sativa Extract
Dipropylene Glycol
Betaine
1,2-Hexanediol
Aspergillus/Rice Ferment Extract
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Sorbitol
Sorbitan Sesquioleate
Ethylhexylglycerin
Arginine
Xanthan Gum
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Isohexadecane
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Sodium Hyaluronate
Carbomer
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Tocopheryl Acetate
Laminaria Japonica Extract
Polysorbate 80
Sorbitan Oleate
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Ceramide NP
Disodium Phosphate
Polysorbate 60
Sodium Phosphate
Copper Tripeptide-1
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water, Bifida Ferment Extract, Oryza Sativa Extract, Dipropylene Glycol, Betaine, 1,2-Hexanediol, Aspergillus/Rice Ferment Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Sorbitol, Sorbitan Sesquioleate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Arginine, Xanthan Gum, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Isohexadecane, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Carbomer, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Tocopheryl Acetate, Laminaria Japonica Extract, Polysorbate 80, Sorbitan Oleate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Ceramide NP, Disodium Phosphate, Polysorbate 60, Sodium Phosphate, Copper Tripeptide-1, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Panthenol
Methylpropanediol
Tromethamine
Allantoin
Artemisia Capillaris Extract
Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer
Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
Polyquaternium-51
Malt Extract
Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract
Coptis Japonica Root Extract
Water, Panthenol, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Methylpropanediol, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Tromethamine, Betaine, Ethylhexylglycerin, Allantoin, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Artemisia Capillaris Extract, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Polyquaternium-51, Malt Extract, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Coptis Japonica Root Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer is a synthetic polymer. It is used to thicken, emulsify, and improve the texture of products.
As an emulsifier, it helps stabilize oil-in-water emulsions to give products an elegant feel when applied.
It can also form a thin protective film on skin. One study found that a formula using this polymer helped slow down how quickly other ingredients (like DEET) were absorbed through skin.
A 2024 study of over 1,300 patients confirmed that sensitization to this ingredient is rare. It is also non-mutagenic and has a clean track record.
Betaine is a humectant. Like hyaluronic acid, it helps attract and retain moisture in the skin. It’s known for being gentle and for helping the skin maintain balanced hydration.
Betaine is mainly used to improve hydration and support calmer skin. It helps skin cells regulate water balance because it functions as an osmolyte.
Some studies suggest betaine may support making skin tone more even.
Fun fact: Betaine naturally exists in the skin and the body. In cosmetic products, it can be either plant-derived (most commonly from sugar beets) or synthetically produced for consistency and stability.
Betaine is also known as trimethylglycine.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water is also known as green tea hydrosol. It is the water leftover from steeping or steam-distilling tea.
It's mostly in cosmetics to lend a light tea scent and gentle refreshing feel (tonic) rather than acting as an active.
Unlike the extract, this ingredient only carries trace amounts of catechins, amino acids, and caffeine that makes tea leaf extract famous.
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate comes from licorice root.
Extracts of licorice have demonstrated to have antibacterial, anti‐inflammatory, antiviral, antioxidant properties.
One component, glabridin, has extra potent antioxidant and soothing properties. It has also been found to block pigmentation from UVB rays in guinea pigs.
Licorice Root also contains a flavonoid. Flavonoids are a natural substance from in plants. Flavonoids also have antioxidant properties.
Another component, glycyrrhizin, has been found to have anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial benefits. This may make licorice root extract effective at treating acne. However, more research is needed to support this.
Liquiritin is one of the flavone compounds found in licorice. It has been found to help lighten skin by preventing tyrosinase from reacting with tyrosine. When the two react, protein is converted to melanin. Melanin is the substance in your body that gives your features pigmentation.
Licorice root is native to Southern Europe and Asia. It has been used in traditional Chinese medicine to help with respiratory issues.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!