Dear, Klairs Midnight Blue Youth Activating Drop Versus Coxir Intensive EGF Peptides Serum

Dear, Klairs Midnight Blue Youth Activating Drop Versus Coxir Intensive EGF Peptides Serum

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Sh-Oligopeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles.

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Butylene Glycol

Sh-Oligopeptide-1

Sh-Polypeptide-1

Vaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract

Lecithin

Sorbitan Sesquioleate

1,2-Hexanediol

Caprylyl Glycol

PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil

Glycerin

Chlorphenesin

Guaiazulene

Ethylhexylglycerin

Adenosine

Water, Butylene Glycol, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Sh-Polypeptide-1, Vaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract, Lecithin, Sorbitan Sesquioleate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Glycerin, Chlorphenesin, Guaiazulene, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine

Niacinamide

Betaine

PEG/PPG-18/4 Copolymer

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4

Tripeptide-1

Pentapeptide-13

Nonapeptide-1

Copper Tripeptide-1

Carbomer

Arginine

Allantoin

PPG-26-Buteth-26

PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil

Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer

Pvm/Ma Copolymer

Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate

Theobroma Cacao Extract

Pyrus Malus Leaf Extract

Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract

Thymus Vulgaris Extract

Fragaria Chiloensis Fruit Extract

Camellia Sinensis Callus Culture Extract

Prunus Persica Fruit Extract

Musa Sapientum Fruit Extract

Bambusa Vulgaris Callus Culture Extract

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Leontopodium Alpinum Extract

Cocos Nucifera Oil

Prunus Domestica Fruit Extract

Hydrolyzed Collagen

Malva Sylvestris Flower Extract

Snail Secretion Filtrate

Tropolone

Water, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Betaine, PEG/PPG-18/4 Copolymer, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Tripeptide-1, Pentapeptide-13, Nonapeptide-1, Copper Tripeptide-1, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Carbomer, Arginine, Allantoin, PPG-26-Buteth-26, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Pvm/Ma Copolymer, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Theobroma Cacao Extract, Pyrus Malus Leaf Extract, Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract, Caprylyl Glycol, Thymus Vulgaris Extract, Fragaria Chiloensis Fruit Extract, Camellia Sinensis Callus Culture Extract, Prunus Persica Fruit Extract, Musa Sapientum Fruit Extract, Bambusa Vulgaris Callus Culture Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Leontopodium Alpinum Extract, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Prunus Domestica Fruit Extract, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Malva Sylvestris Flower Extract, Snail Secretion Filtrate, Tropolone

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.

The way it works is fairly well mapped out:

Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.

The clinical backing is pretty solid too.

A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.

A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.

On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.

This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.

Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

sh-Oligopeptide-1 is a peptide found naturally in our bodies. Peptides are the building blocks for collagen and elastin in our skin.

In cosmetics, this ingredient is bioengineered to be identical to a human gene that codes for epidermal growth factor (EGF). EGF are signal molecules that simulate cell growth and healing.

Studies find EGF help with:

In South Korea and China, EGF is considered a controversial ingredient. The South Korean Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has cracked down on companies with products including EGF due to false advertisement claims.

According to Dr. Zoe Draelos, growth factors have some drawbacks:

There is also controversy surrounding growth factors. The controversy is due to their mitogenic activity, or their ability to increase the number of cells. It is best to avoid using growth factors if you have psoriasis or are at risk of skin cancer. However, it should be noted EGF are not mutagenic - meaning they will not cause cancer.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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