Deconstruct Retinol & Peptide Serum Versus Minimalist Granactive Retinoid 2% Face Cream

Deconstruct Retinol & Peptide Serum Versus Minimalist Granactive Retinoid 2% Face Cream

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Retinol to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate and Sodium Hyaluronate to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

No concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Rosa Damascena Flower Water

Pisum Sativum Extract

Pentylene Glycol

Lecithin

Retinol

Betaine

Polysorbate 20

Potassium Phosphate

Glycerin

Phenoxyethanol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Palmaria Palmata Extract

Xanthan Gum

Amylopectin

Magnesium Aspartate

Zinc Gluconate

Copper Gluconate

Sodium Gluconate

Hyaluronic Acid

Tocopheryl Acetate

Water, Rosa Damascena Flower Water, Pisum Sativum Extract, Pentylene Glycol, Lecithin, Retinol, Betaine, Polysorbate 20, Potassium Phosphate, Glycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Palmaria Palmata Extract, Xanthan Gum, Amylopectin, Magnesium Aspartate, Zinc Gluconate, Copper Gluconate, Sodium Gluconate, Hyaluronic Acid, Tocopheryl Acetate

Dimethyl Isosorbide

Ethoxydiglycol

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Propanediol

Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate

Arachidyl Alcohol

Behenyl Alcohol

Arachidyl Glucoside

Sodium Hyaluronate

Lysine

Histidine

Arginine

Aspartic Acid

Threonine

Serine

Glutamic Acid

Proline

Glycine

Alanine

Valine

Methionine

Isoleucine

Leucine

Tyrosine

Phenylalanine

Cysteine

1,2-Hexanediol

Pullulan

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Sclerotium Gum

Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate

Water, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Ethoxydiglycol, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Propanediol, Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Arachidyl Alcohol, Behenyl Alcohol, Arachidyl Glucoside, Sodium Hyaluronate, Lysine, Histidine, Arginine, Aspartic Acid, Threonine, Serine, Glutamic Acid, Proline, Glycine, Alanine, Valine, Methionine, Isoleucine, Leucine, Tyrosine, Phenylalanine, Cysteine, 1,2-Hexanediol, Phenoxyethanol, Pullulan, Ethylhexylglycerin, Xanthan Gum, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Sclerotium Gum, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Lecithin

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Lecithin is a term for a group of substances found in the cell membranes of plants, animals, and humans. They are made up of phospholipids.

Thanks to its amphiphilic structure (water-loving head and oil-loving tail), it is a true multitasker:

It plays well with most ingredients and is typically used at 0.1-1%. However, concentrations up to 50% have been reported in moisturizers.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.

Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.

It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.

One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.

Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.

Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.

The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.

Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

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