Derma E Advanced Peptides & Collagen Serum Versus Naturium Niacinamide Serum 12% Plus Zinc 2%

Derma E Advanced Peptides & Collagen Serum Versus Naturium Niacinamide Serum 12% Plus Zinc 2%

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38 and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

This oil-control serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Zinc PCA to balance excess oil and refine the look of pores.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Propanediol

Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Microcrystalline Cellulose

Cellulose Gum

Panthenol

Pinus Pinaster Bark Extract

Acacia Seyal Gum Extract

Ascorbyl Palmitate

Tocopheryl Acetate

Allantoin

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Ethylhexyl Palmitate

Leucine

Tyrosine

Alanine

Xanthan Gum

Sodium Citrate

Phenoxyethanol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Parfum

Water, Glycerin, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Propanediol, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Microcrystalline Cellulose, Cellulose Gum, Panthenol, Pinus Pinaster Bark Extract, Acacia Seyal Gum Extract, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Allantoin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Leucine, Tyrosine, Alanine, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Citrate, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Parfum

Niacinamide

Zinc PCA

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-11

Sodium Hyaluronate

Dimethicone

Caprylyl Glycol

Potassium Sorbate

Glyceryl Polyacrylate

Hexylene Glycol

Citric Acid

Water, Niacinamide, Propanediol, Glycerin, Zinc PCA, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-11, Sodium Hyaluronate, Dimethicone, Caprylyl Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Xanthan Gum, Potassium Sorbate, Glyceryl Polyacrylate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Hexylene Glycol, Citric Acid

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.

Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.

It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.

One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.

Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.

Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.

The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.

Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

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