Skin science article
Dermalogica Age Reversal Eye Complex Versus Dermalogica Awaken Peptide Depuffing Eye Gel
Dermalogica Age Reversal Eye Complex Versus Dermalogica Awaken Peptide Depuffing Eye Gel This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture. This anti-aging eye m
Dermalogica Age Reversal Eye Complex Versus Dermalogica Awaken Peptide Depuffing Eye Gel
This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.
This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 and Caffeine to soften the look of wrinkles and calm redness.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Methylheptyl Isostearate
Cyclopentasiloxane
Cetyl Alcohol
Diglycerin
Dimethicone
Pentylene Glycol
Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil
Glyceryl Stearate
PEG-100 Stearate
Isohexadecane
Propanediol
Glycerin
Niacinamide
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Algae Extract
Retinol
Saccharomyces Lysate Extract
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Avena Sativa Kernel Extract
Dunaliella Salina Extract
Panthenol
Hydrolyzed Lupine Protein
Dipeptide-2
Ascorbyl Palmitate
Sodium Hyaluronate
Medicago Sativa Seed Extract
Hydrolyzed Soy Protein
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Bisabolol
Caffeine
Glucosamine Hcl
Aleurites Moluccanus Seed Oil
Fraxinus Excelsior Bark Extract
Tocopherol
Silanetriol
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Ceramide NP
Lecithin
Arginine/Lysine Polypeptide
Tremella Fuciformis Polysaccharide
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract
Tocopheryl Acetate
Corallina Officinalis Extract
Dimethiconol
Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone
Pantolactone
Sodium Lactate
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Laureth-23
Oryza Sativa Bran Extract
Urea
Polyglycerin-3
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cetyl Palmitate
Trideceth-6 Phosphate
Butylene Glycol
Carbomer
Potassium Sorbate
Oleth-20
Sodium Acrylates Copolymer
Isostearic Acid
Steareth-20
Polysorbate 20
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Disodium EDTA
Sodium Benzoate
BHA
Potassium Citrate
Citric Acid
BHT
Sodium Hydroxide
Aminomethyl Propanol
Ethylhexylglycerin
Phenoxyethanol
Water, Methylheptyl Isostearate, Cyclopentasiloxane, Cetyl Alcohol, Diglycerin, Dimethicone, Pentylene Glycol, Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Isohexadecane, Propanediol, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Algae Extract, Retinol, Saccharomyces Lysate Extract, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Dunaliella Salina Extract, Panthenol, Hydrolyzed Lupine Protein, Dipeptide-2, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Medicago Sativa Seed Extract, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Bisabolol, Caffeine, Glucosamine Hcl, Aleurites Moluccanus Seed Oil, Fraxinus Excelsior Bark Extract, Tocopherol, Silanetriol, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Ceramide NP, Lecithin, Arginine/Lysine Polypeptide, Tremella Fuciformis Polysaccharide, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Dimethiconol, Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone, Pantolactone, Sodium Lactate, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Laureth-23, Oryza Sativa Bran Extract, Urea, Polyglycerin-3, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Cetyl Palmitate, Trideceth-6 Phosphate, Butylene Glycol, Carbomer, Potassium Sorbate, Oleth-20, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Isostearic Acid, Steareth-20, Polysorbate 20, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Benzoate, BHA, Potassium Citrate, Citric Acid, BHT, Sodium Hydroxide, Aminomethyl Propanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol
Polysilicone-11
Maltodextrin
Magnesium Aluminum Silicate
Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract
Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
Coleus Forskohlii Root Extract
Helichrysum Italicum Extract
Voandzeia Subterranea Seed Extract
Lactic Acid
Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters
Hydroxyacetophenone
Diosmine
Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate
Caprylyl Glycol
Laureth-12
Chrysin
Xanthan Gum
Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate
Sorbitan Oleate
Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate
CI 77120
Sodium Carbonate
Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Succinic Acid
Water, Polysilicone-11, Glycerin, Maltodextrin, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Butylene Glycol, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Caffeine, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Coleus Forskohlii Root Extract, Helichrysum Italicum Extract, Voandzeia Subterranea Seed Extract, Lactic Acid, Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters, Pentylene Glycol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Diosmine, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Caprylyl Glycol, Laureth-12, Chrysin, Xanthan Gum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate, Sorbitan Oleate, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, CI 77120, Sodium Carbonate, Polysorbate 20, Sodium Hydroxide, Propanediol, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Succinic Acid
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Caffeine is a naturally occurring plant compound found in coffee beans, tea leaves, cocoa pods, and guarana.
As an antioxidant, caffeine protects your skin from free radical damage caused by UV exposure and envionrmnetal stressors.
Early research also shows that caffeine can help calm redness, soothe irritated skin, and support hair growth by stimulating microcirculation in the scalp.
You might have seen eye creams marketing caffeine as a depuffing ingredient. This is because it is a vasoconstrictor meaning it can temporarily constrict blood vessels, though clinical evidence for this specific use is still limited.
Most skincare products contain this ingredient at concentrations between 1-6%. It is able to penetrate skin easily regardless of skin type or thickness.
Just so you know, a very small number of case reports describe caffeine-induced allergy. This ingredient is generally well-tolerated, non-irritating, and non-sensitizing for the majority of people.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 (formerly Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-3) is a synthetic peptide. Its main job is to fight what researchers call "inflammaging".
"Inflammaging" is the slow, low-grade chronic inflammation that quietly breaks down collagen as we age.
This ingredient calms down a specific inflammation signal in your skin cells (called IL-6). When left unchecked, this signal triggers enzymes that break down collagen and elastin.
Clinical testing showed statistically significant improvements in:
Studies also found the more of this ingredient used, the more your skin produces Collagen I, fibronectin, and hyaluronic acid.
You'll likely see this ingredient paired with Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 in the well-known Matrixyl 3000 complex for enhanced anti-aging effects.
A 3% concentration applied twice daily for two months showed meaningful skin rejuvenation results in clinical panels.
Fungal acne note: Usually a palmitic acid component can feed Malassezia in unbound form, but here is is covalently bonded to the peptide. This means it is very difficult for Malassezia to access, and therefore very unlikely to cause fungal acne.
Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:
Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.
On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.
Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.
Polysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.
It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.
The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.
Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).
True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.
Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.
In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.
Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.
"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!