Dermalogica Phyto Nature Lifting Eye Cream Versus Dermalogica Awaken Peptide Depuffing Eye Gel

Dermalogica Phyto Nature Lifting Eye Cream Versus Dermalogica Awaken Peptide Depuffing Eye Gel

This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Panthenol and Squalane to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.

This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 and Caffeine to soften the look of wrinkles and calm redness.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Panthenol

Squalane

Glycerin

Pentylene Glycol

Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate

Propanediol

Triethylhexanoin

Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil

Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil

Glyceryl Stearate Se

Cetearyl Alcohol

Bis-Ethoxydiglycol Cyclohexane 1,4-Dicarboxylate

PEG-100 Stearate

Glyceryl Stearate

Tocopheryl Acetate

Hydroxyacetophenone

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Sodium Hyaluronate

Ubiquinone

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Citrus Limon Peel Oil

Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil

Salvia Sclarea Oil

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil

Avena Sativa Kernel Extract

Viola Odorata Leaf Extract

Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil

Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil

Oryza Sativa Bran Extract

Tapioca Starch

Chenopodium Quinoa Seed Extract

Helianthus Annuus Extract

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Powder

Sphingomonas Ferment Extract

Spilanthes Acmella Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract

Astragalus Membranaceus Root Extract

Hordeum Vulgare Seed Extract

Candida Bombicola/Glucose/Methyl Rapeseedate Ferment

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil

Lavandula Spica Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract

Litsea Cubeba Fruit Oil

Zingiber Officinale Root Extract

Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables

Mentha Piperita Oil

Tocopherol

Carnosine

Allantoin

Caprylyl Glycol

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9

Beta-Glucan

Caffeine

Mannitol

Bisabolol

Trehalose

Lactobacillus Ferment

1,2-Hexanediol

Steareth-21

Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate

Sodium Hydroxide

Aminomethyl Propanol

Carbomer

Microcrystalline Cellulose

Cellulose Gum

Sodium Benzoate

Potassium Sorbate

Limonene

Linalool

Citral

Water, Panthenol, Squalane, Glycerin, Pentylene Glycol, Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate, Propanediol, Triethylhexanoin, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Cetearyl Alcohol, Bis-Ethoxydiglycol Cyclohexane 1,4-Dicarboxylate, PEG-100 Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Hydroxyacetophenone, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Ubiquinone, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Citrus Limon Peel Oil, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil, Salvia Sclarea Oil, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Viola Odorata Leaf Extract, Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Oryza Sativa Bran Extract, Tapioca Starch, Chenopodium Quinoa Seed Extract, Helianthus Annuus Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Powder, Sphingomonas Ferment Extract, Spilanthes Acmella Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Astragalus Membranaceus Root Extract, Hordeum Vulgare Seed Extract, Candida Bombicola/Glucose/Methyl Rapeseedate Ferment, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil, Lavandula Spica Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Litsea Cubeba Fruit Oil, Zingiber Officinale Root Extract, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables, Mentha Piperita Oil, Tocopherol, Carnosine, Allantoin, Caprylyl Glycol, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9, Beta-Glucan, Caffeine, Mannitol, Bisabolol, Trehalose, Lactobacillus Ferment, 1,2-Hexanediol, Steareth-21, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Sodium Hydroxide, Aminomethyl Propanol, Carbomer, Microcrystalline Cellulose, Cellulose Gum, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Limonene, Linalool, Citral

Polysilicone-11

Maltodextrin

Magnesium Aluminum Silicate

Butylene Glycol

Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Coleus Forskohlii Root Extract

Helichrysum Italicum Extract

Voandzeia Subterranea Seed Extract

Lactic Acid

Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters

Diosmine

Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate

Laureth-12

Chrysin

Xanthan Gum

Ethylhexylglycerin

Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate

Sorbitan Oleate

CI 77120

Sodium Carbonate

Polysorbate 20

Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate

Succinic Acid

Water, Polysilicone-11, Glycerin, Maltodextrin, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Butylene Glycol, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Caffeine, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Coleus Forskohlii Root Extract, Helichrysum Italicum Extract, Voandzeia Subterranea Seed Extract, Lactic Acid, Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters, Pentylene Glycol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Diosmine, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Caprylyl Glycol, Laureth-12, Chrysin, Xanthan Gum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate, Sorbitan Oleate, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, CI 77120, Sodium Carbonate, Polysorbate 20, Sodium Hydroxide, Propanediol, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Succinic Acid

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Caffeine is a naturally occurring plant compound found in coffee beans, tea leaves, cocoa pods, and guarana.

As an antioxidant, caffeine protects your skin from free radical damage caused by UV exposure and envionrmnetal stressors.

Early research also shows that caffeine can help calm redness, soothe irritated skin, and support hair growth by stimulating microcirculation in the scalp.

You might have seen eye creams marketing caffeine as a depuffing ingredient. This is because it is a vasoconstrictor meaning it can temporarily constrict blood vessels, though clinical evidence for this specific use is still limited.

Most skincare products contain this ingredient at concentrations between 1-6%. It is able to penetrate skin easily regardless of skin type or thickness.

Just so you know, a very small number of case reports describe caffeine-induced allergy. This ingredient is generally well-tolerated, non-irritating, and non-sensitizing for the majority of people.

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Hydroxyacetophenone is a small phenolic molecule that earns its place in a formulas as an antioxidant and preservative booster.

As a phenol, it is able to neutralize free radicals to protect both the product and the skin from oxidative stress.

Though it can't kill microbes on its own, it works as a good supporting agent when combined with other preservatives like Phenoxyethanol or 1,2-Hexanediol.

This ingredient naturally occurs as piceol in Norwegian spruce needles (~0.4-1.1% dry weight and in cloudberries). Though the cosmetic-grade material is synthesized for purity and consistency.

You'll usually see it used at low levels and suppliers recommend up to 1% added to a water phase.

Safety testing was done at concentrations like 0.05% in SPF products and 0.5% in a Human Repeated Insult Patch Test. The safety evidence is assuring; this ingredient is safe for cosmetics in current use and also holds safety status as a food flavoring as well.

An honest caveat: the "soothing" and "anti-inflammatory" claims come mostly from supplier marketing rather than published clinical trials. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review's own literature search found no useful efficacy studies on this ingredient.

So the antioxidant and preservative-boosting roles are the well supported ones while the calming benefit is plausible but thinly evidenced.

Overall, this is a well-tolerated, low-irritation multitasker that quietly helps a formula stay fresh and stable.

Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:

Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.

On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.

Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

This is a botanical extract from the rosemary plant (the same one you cook with). In skincare, it mostly works as a skin conditioning agent.

Its activity comes from a handful of polyphenols, carnosic acid, carnosol, and rosmarinic acid. Almost 90% of the antioxidant activity of this ingredient can be attributed to canosol and carnosic acid.

These compounds protect your skin two ways:

1) They fight off free radicals, or the unstable molecules from things like sun and pollution that age and damage skin. 2) They help calm inflammation by switching off the chemical signals that tell skin to get red and irritated.

Lab studies also suggest that rosmarinic acid may help protect collagen and slow sugar-related damage to it.

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review has concluded rosemary-derived ingredients to be safe when formulated to be non-sensitizing.

Rosemary can occasionally cause allergic contact dermatitis (due to carnosol), so be sure to patch test if you have reactive or fragrance-sensitive skin.

Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.

In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.

Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.

"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.

Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate is a chelating agent. Chelating agents help prevent metal ions from binding to other ingredients. This helps prevent unwanted effects and reactions from a product. These metal ions may come from water and are found in miniscule amounts.

Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate can also help other preservatives be more effective.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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