Skin science article
Dermalogica Awaken Peptide Depuffing Eye Gel Versus Murad Revitalixir Recovery Serum
Dermalogica Awaken Peptide Depuffing Eye Gel Versus Murad Revitalixir Recovery Serum This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 and Caffeine to soften the look of wrinkles and calm redness. This calming serum is formulated ar
Dermalogica Awaken Peptide Depuffing Eye Gel Versus Murad Revitalixir Recovery Serum
This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 and Caffeine to soften the look of wrinkles and calm redness.
This calming serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to calm redness and strengthen the skin barrier.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Polysilicone-11
Glycerin
Maltodextrin
Magnesium Aluminum Silicate
Butylene Glycol
Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Caffeine
Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
Coleus Forskohlii Root Extract
Helichrysum Italicum Extract
Voandzeia Subterranea Seed Extract
Lactic Acid
Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters
Pentylene Glycol
Hydroxyacetophenone
Diosmine
Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate
Caprylyl Glycol
Laureth-12
Chrysin
Xanthan Gum
Ethylhexylglycerin
Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate
Sorbitan Oleate
Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate
CI 77120
Sodium Carbonate
Polysorbate 20
Sodium Hydroxide
Propanediol
Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Succinic Acid
Water, Polysilicone-11, Glycerin, Maltodextrin, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Butylene Glycol, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Caffeine, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Coleus Forskohlii Root Extract, Helichrysum Italicum Extract, Voandzeia Subterranea Seed Extract, Lactic Acid, Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters, Pentylene Glycol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Diosmine, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Caprylyl Glycol, Laureth-12, Chrysin, Xanthan Gum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate, Sorbitan Oleate, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, CI 77120, Sodium Carbonate, Polysorbate 20, Sodium Hydroxide, Propanediol, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Succinic Acid
Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil
Niacinamide
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Alcohol Denat.
1,2-Hexanediol
Cannabis Sativa Seed Oil
Sodium Hyaluronate
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Plankton Extract
Tephrosia Purpurea Seed Extract
Sigesbeckia Orientalis Extract
Rosa Damascena Flower Extract
Spilanthes Acmella Flower Extract
Indigofera Tinctoria Leaf Extract
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Tocopherol
Urea
Yeast Amino Acids
Trehalose
Inositol
Taurine
Betaine
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Carrageenan
Algin
PEG/PPG-17/6 Copolymer
Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Hydroxyethylpiperazine Ethane Sulfonic Acid
Sodium Lauryl Sulfate
Synthetic Fluorphlogopite
Phenoxyethanol
Mica
Tin Oxide
CI 77491
CI 77891
Parfum
Linalool
Citronellol
Water, Glycerin, Propanediol, Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil, Niacinamide, Pentylene Glycol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Alcohol Denat., 1,2-Hexanediol, Cannabis Sativa Seed Oil, Sodium Hyaluronate, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Caffeine, Plankton Extract, Tephrosia Purpurea Seed Extract, Sigesbeckia Orientalis Extract, Rosa Damascena Flower Extract, Spilanthes Acmella Flower Extract, Indigofera Tinctoria Leaf Extract, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Tocopherol, Urea, Yeast Amino Acids, Trehalose, Inositol, Taurine, Betaine, Caprylyl Glycol, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Carrageenan, Algin, PEG/PPG-17/6 Copolymer, Xanthan Gum, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Hydroxyethylpiperazine Ethane Sulfonic Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Phenoxyethanol, Mica, Tin Oxide, CI 77491, CI 77891, Parfum, Linalool, Citronellol
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caffeine is a naturally occurring plant compound found in coffee beans, tea leaves, cocoa pods, and guarana.
As an antioxidant, caffeine protects your skin from free radical damage caused by UV exposure and envionrmnetal stressors.
Early research also shows that caffeine can help calm redness, soothe irritated skin, and support hair growth by stimulating microcirculation in the scalp.
You might have seen eye creams marketing caffeine as a depuffing ingredient. This is because it is a vasoconstrictor meaning it can temporarily constrict blood vessels, though clinical evidence for this specific use is still limited.
Most skincare products contain this ingredient at concentrations between 1-6%. It is able to penetrate skin easily regardless of skin type or thickness.
Just so you know, a very small number of case reports describe caffeine-induced allergy. This ingredient is generally well-tolerated, non-irritating, and non-sensitizing for the majority of people.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:
Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.
On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.
Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.
In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.
Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.
"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.