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Skin science article

Dermalogica Clear Start Breakout Clearing Booster Versus Medik8 Clarity Peptides

Dermalogica Clear Start Breakout Clearing Booster Versus Medik8 Clarity Peptides This acne treatment is formulated around Niacinamide and Salicylic Acid to clear breakouts and refine the look of pores. This brightening serum is formulated around Niacinamide an

Dermalogica Clear Start Breakout Clearing Booster Versus Medik8 Clarity Peptides

This acne treatment is formulated around Niacinamide and Salicylic Acid to clear breakouts and refine the look of pores.

This brightening serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Zinc PCA to brighten dull-looking skin and refine the look of pores.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

PPG-15 Stearyl Ether

Butylene Glycol

Glycerin

Isopropyl Lauroyl Sarcosinate

Niacinamide

Salicylic Acid

Cetearyl Glucoside

1,2-Hexanediol

Polysorbate 20

Hydroxyacetophenone

Chlorella Vulgaris Extract

Terpineol

Thymol

Chondrus Crispus Extract

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil

Lactic Acid

Sodium Hyaluronate

Dimethicone

Xanthan Gum

Sclerotium Gum

Lecithin

Pullulan

Propanediol

Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate

Silica

Sodium Hydroxide

Sodium Citrate

Limonene

Water, PPG-15 Stearyl Ether, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Isopropyl Lauroyl Sarcosinate, Niacinamide, Salicylic Acid, Cetearyl Glucoside, 1,2-Hexanediol, Polysorbate 20, Hydroxyacetophenone, Chlorella Vulgaris Extract, Terpineol, Thymol, Chondrus Crispus Extract, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil, Lactic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Dimethicone, Xanthan Gum, Sclerotium Gum, Lecithin, Pullulan, Propanediol, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Silica, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Citrate, Limonene

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Acetyl Glucosamine

Glyceryl Stearate Citrate

Zinc PCA

Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate

Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Behenyl Alcohol

Cetearyl Alcohol

Phenoxyethanol

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Disodium EDTA

Cetyl Palmitate

Carnosine

Ethylhexylglycerin

Polysorbate 80

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-10

Sorbitan Stearate

Polysorbate 60

Sorbitan Isostearate

Sodium Benzoate

Citric Acid

Tocopherol

Caprylhydroxamic Acid

Water, Niacinamide, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Acetyl Glucosamine, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Dimethicone, Zinc PCA, Glycerin, Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate, Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil, Hydroxyacetophenone, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Behenyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Disodium EDTA, Xanthan Gum, Cetyl Palmitate, Carnosine, Ethylhexylglycerin, Polysorbate 80, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-10, Sorbitan Stearate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Polysorbate 60, Sorbitan Isostearate, Sodium Benzoate, Citric Acid, Tocopherol, Butylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylhydroxamic Acid

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.

What it does:

Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:

Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.

Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.

This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.

Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Hydroxyacetophenone is a small phenolic molecule that earns its place in a formulas as an antioxidant and preservative booster.

As a phenol, it is able to neutralize free radicals to protect both the product and the skin from oxidative stress.

Though it can't kill microbes on its own, it works as a good supporting agent when combined with other preservatives like Phenoxyethanol or 1,2-Hexanediol.

This ingredient naturally occurs as piceol in Norwegian spruce needles (~0.4-1.1% dry weight and in cloudberries). Though the cosmetic-grade material is synthesized for purity and consistency.

You'll usually see it used at low levels and suppliers recommend up to 1% added to a water phase.

Safety testing was done at concentrations like 0.05% in SPF products and 0.5% in a Human Repeated Insult Patch Test. The safety evidence is assuring; this ingredient is safe for cosmetics in current use and also holds safety status as a food flavoring as well.

An honest caveat: the "soothing" and "anti-inflammatory" claims come mostly from supplier marketing rather than published clinical trials. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review's own literature search found no useful efficacy studies on this ingredient.

So the antioxidant and preservative-boosting roles are the well supported ones while the calming benefit is plausible but thinly evidenced.

Overall, this is a well-tolerated, low-irritation multitasker that quietly helps a formula stay fresh and stable.

Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.

And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.

You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.

In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.

If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.

When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.

When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.

In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).

Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.

Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.

The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

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The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
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Comparison edit

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