Dermalogica Dynamic Skin Recovery SPF50 Moisturizer Versus Paula's Choice Resist Skin Restoring Moisturizer With SPF 50

Dermalogica Dynamic Skin Recovery SPF50 Moisturizer Versus Paula's Choice Resist Skin Restoring Moisturizer With SPF 50

This chemical sunscreen covers most of the UV range, lighter on the deep UVA that drives aging.

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Allantoin and Niacinamide to strengthen the skin barrier and soften the look of wrinkles.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 3%

Homosalate 5%

Ethylhexyl Salicylate 3%

Octocrylene 7%

Water

Carthamus Tinctorius Oleosomes

Butylene Glycol

Dimethicone

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

Propanediol

Polysorbate 80

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Aniba Rosodora Wood Oil

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil

Eugenia Caryophyllus Leaf Oil

Saccharomyces Cerevisiae Extract

Laminaria Digitata Extract

Rosa Damascena Flower Oil

Eugenia Caryophyllus Bud Oil

Citrus Limon Peel Oil

Cymbopogon Schoenanthus Oil

Cymbopogon Martini Oil

Cupressus Sempervirens Leaf Oil

Citrus Limon Peel Extract

Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil

Tocopherol

Squalane

Caprylyl Glycol

Carnosine

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Lecithin

Urea

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Glycerin

Pentylene Glycol

Bisabolol

Glucosamine Hcl

Ethylhexylglycerin

1,2-Hexanediol

Gluconolactone

Polysorbate 60

Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate

Sorbitan Isostearate

Decyl Glucoside

Aminomethyl Propanol

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Polysilicone-11

Sodium Acrylates Copolymer

Phenethyl Alcohol

Sodium Benzoate

Linalool

Eugenol

Limonene

Citronellol

Geraniol

Benzyl Benzoate

Citral

CI 77891

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 3%, Homosalate 5%, Ethylhexyl Salicylate 3%, Octocrylene 7%, Water, Carthamus Tinctorius Oleosomes, Butylene Glycol, Dimethicone, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Propanediol, Polysorbate 80, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Aniba Rosodora Wood Oil, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil, Eugenia Caryophyllus Leaf Oil, Saccharomyces Cerevisiae Extract, Laminaria Digitata Extract, Rosa Damascena Flower Oil, Eugenia Caryophyllus Bud Oil, Citrus Limon Peel Oil, Cymbopogon Schoenanthus Oil, Cymbopogon Martini Oil, Cupressus Sempervirens Leaf Oil, Citrus Limon Peel Extract, Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil, Tocopherol, Squalane, Caprylyl Glycol, Carnosine, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Lecithin, Urea, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Pentylene Glycol, Bisabolol, Glucosamine Hcl, Ethylhexylglycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Gluconolactone, Polysorbate 60, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Sorbitan Isostearate, Decyl Glucoside, Aminomethyl Propanol, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Polysilicone-11, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Phenethyl Alcohol, Sodium Benzoate, Linalool, Eugenol, Limonene, Citronellol, Geraniol, Benzyl Benzoate, Citral, CI 77891

Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate 7.5%

Ethylhexyl Salicylate 5%

Benzophenone-3

Silica

Cetearyl Alcohol

Potassium Cetyl Phosphate

Cyclopentasiloxane

Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract

Vp/Eicosene Copolymer

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Allantoin

Niacinamide

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice

Atractylodes Macrocephala Root Powder

Avena Sativa Kernel Extract

Coffea Arabica Seed Extract

Portulaca Oleracea Extract

Mahonia Aquifolium Root Extract

Diethylhexyl Syringylidenemalonate

Sarcosine

Capryloyl Glycine

Maltooligosyl Glucoside

Cetearyl Glucoside

Dimethiconol

Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate

Hexylene Glycol

4-T-Butylcyclohexanol

Glyceryl Stearate

PEG-100 Stearate

Sodium Hydroxide

Xanthan Gum

Disodium EDTA

Phenoxyethanol

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 3%, Homosalate 5%, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate 7.5%, Ethylhexyl Salicylate 5%, Benzophenone-3, Water, Silica, Glycerin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Dimethicone, Butylene Glycol, Pentylene Glycol, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Cyclopentasiloxane, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Vp/Eicosene Copolymer, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Allantoin, Niacinamide, Tocopherol, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Atractylodes Macrocephala Root Powder, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Coffea Arabica Seed Extract, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Mahonia Aquifolium Root Extract, Diethylhexyl Syringylidenemalonate, Sarcosine, Capryloyl Glycine, Maltooligosyl Glucoside, Cetearyl Glucoside, Dimethiconol, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate, Hexylene Glycol, 4-T-Butylcyclohexanol, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Sodium Hydroxide, Xanthan Gum, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer is a synthetic polymer. It is used to thicken, emulsify, and improve the texture of products.

As an emulsifier, it helps stabilize oil-in-water emulsions to give products an elegant feel when applied.

It can also form a thin protective film on skin. One study found that a formula using this polymer helped slow down how quickly other ingredients (like DEET) were absorbed through skin.

A 2024 study of over 1,300 patients confirmed that sensitization to this ingredient is rare. It is also non-mutagenic and has a clean track record.

Also known as Avobenzone, this ingredient is an oil-soluble used to absorb the full spectrum of UVA rays (peak 357 nm).

It's one of the most effective UVA filters available but has a major caveat of photostability: avobenzone is susceptible to photodegradation.

This means it can lose efficacy when exposed to sunlight without the help of a stabilizing agent.

Studies show antioxidants (like vitamin E or vitamin C) and some UV filters (like octocrylene and Tinosorb S) can meaningfully improve its stability in a formulation.

The maximum allowable concentration according to regulation is 3% in the US + Canada, and 5% in the EU, Australia, China, Korea, and ASEAN countries.

It has a well-support safety profile: a comprehensive 2025 review found minimal toxicity with no evidence of carcinogenicity.

Overall, avobenzone is a safe and regulated ingredient used in sunscreen for over 40 years.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.

What it does:

Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:

Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.

Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.

This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.

Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.

Ethylhexyl Salicylate (also called Octisalate or Octyl Salicylate) is an oil-soluble organic UV filter that's been used in sunscreen since the 1950's.

It absorbs UVB light in the 280-320 nm range with a peak absorbance around 306 nm.

You'll often see it paired with other UV filters to boost overall SPF because octisalate is a fairly week filter on its own.

The reason you'll see it so often is because it can help solubilize and stabilize the trickier filters like oxybenzone and avobenzone.

Unlike these filters, octisalate has pretty good photostability and doesn't create skin-damaging free radicals when exposed to sunlight.

The fatty-alcohol part of the molecule also gives it a light, emollient feel so it doubles as a nice texture enhancer.

Usage levels vary around the world:

Safety-wise, this ingredient has a pretty reassuring track record. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Products (SCCP) found very low skin penetration in human skin tests and negative results for irritation, phototoxicity, and photoallergy.

The real-world allergy risk is pretty low too; a 2012 European study of 1,031 people recorded only 2 reactions to it (a rate of 0.19%).

You might have seen scary headlines about sunscreen getting into your blood.

In 2019, the FDA found that several chemical filters can absorb through the skin and show up in the bloodstream at small but measurable levels.

Here's the important part: these tiny levels are just a cutoff the FDA uses to decide which ingredients need more testing and doesn't mean anything harmful was found.

The researchers were clear that the results are no reason to stop wearing sunscreen.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Homosalate is an oil-soluble organic UVB filter that has been a sunscreen staple for decades. Its job is to absorb UVB rays (~295-315 nm) and protect your skin against sunburn,

This is one of the more photostable organic UV filters; it holds up pretty well under UV and a 2022 quantum-chemistry study found it stays stable in sunlight.

It's actually so reliable that formulators often pair it with shakier ingredients like oxybenzone and avobenzone. Formulators also use it to help dissolve the other UV filters into the oil phase.

One thing to keep in mind: "stable" isn't the same as "strong". On its own, homosalate is actually a pretty weak UV filter so it's better off as a helpful team player that helps boost overall SPF protection.

The safety picture is a bit nuanced but not scary.

This ingredient has a long track record of being gentle and regulators agree it isn't an irritant; EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety found that homosalate is not considered a skin irritant and doesn't raise eye-irritation flags either.

There's talk about homosalate because your skin absorbs a little bit of it into your bloodstream. A 2020 FDA-backed study found homosalate showed up in people's blood levels at the level where the FDA decides to double check.

The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) also found small amounts in blood and breast milk. They estimated that about 5% of what you apply gets absorbed through the skin.

Due to the debate about whether it might mess with hormones, the SCCS recommended a maximum limit of 0.5% in most products of 7.3% in face creams/pump sprays.

One important thing to keep in mind: in the US, Homosalate is currently labeled "non-GRASE" by the FDA. This sounds alarming but really just means the FDA wants more data to confirm it's safe. It's not confidently saying this ingredient is harmful.

As of now, homosalate is still completely legal and widely used while that research gets done.

The current maximum limits are:

Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:

Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.

On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.

Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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