Dermalogica Pro-Collagen Banking Serum Versus Paula's Choice Pro-Collagen Multi-Peptide Booster

Dermalogica Pro-Collagen Banking Serum Versus Paula's Choice Pro-Collagen Multi-Peptide Booster

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Trehalose and Carnosine to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Pentylene Glycol

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Glycerin

Propanediol

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Trehalose

Oryza Sativa Bran Water

Butylene Glycol

Ethoxydiglycol

Triheptanoin

Arginine PCA

Diglycerin

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Sodium Hyaluronate

Collagen Amino Acids

Glycine Soja Oil

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil

Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil

Citrus Paradisi Peel Oil

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract

Cupressus Sempervirens Leaf/Nut/Stem Oil

Santalum Album Oil

Citrus Limon Peel Oil

Rosa Damascena Flower Oil

Jasminum Sambac Flower Extract

Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters

Oryza Sativa Bran Extract

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract

Tephrosia Purpurea Seed Extract

Helianthus Annuus Extract

Juniperus Virginiana Oil

Tagetes Minuta Flower Oil

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil

Cistus Ladaniferus Leaf/Stem Extract

Hydrolyzed Rice Protein

Tocopheryl Acetate

Tocopherol

Phospholipids

Carnosine

Glyceryl Stearate Citrate

Caprylyl Glycol

Polyglutamic Acid

Glycolipids

Glycine Soja Sterols

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Glyceryl Caprylate

Sclerotium Gum

Polyquaternium-80

Didecyldimonium Chloride

Dianthus Caryophyllus Flower Extract

Xanthan Gum

Methylpropanediol

Cetearyl Alcohol

PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer

Phytic Acid

Polysorbate 20

Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate

Citric Acid

Sodium Hydroxide

Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate

Sodium Benzoate

Potassium Sorbate

Limonene

Linalool

Water, Pentylene Glycol, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Glycerin, Propanediol, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Trehalose, Oryza Sativa Bran Water, Butylene Glycol, Ethoxydiglycol, Triheptanoin, Arginine PCA, Diglycerin, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Collagen Amino Acids, Glycine Soja Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil, Citrus Paradisi Peel Oil, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Cupressus Sempervirens Leaf/Nut/Stem Oil, Santalum Album Oil, Citrus Limon Peel Oil, Rosa Damascena Flower Oil, Jasminum Sambac Flower Extract, Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters, Oryza Sativa Bran Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Tephrosia Purpurea Seed Extract, Helianthus Annuus Extract, Juniperus Virginiana Oil, Tagetes Minuta Flower Oil, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil, Cistus Ladaniferus Leaf/Stem Extract, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tocopherol, Phospholipids, Carnosine, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Caprylyl Glycol, Polyglutamic Acid, Glycolipids, Glycine Soja Sterols, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Glyceryl Caprylate, Sclerotium Gum, Polyquaternium-80, Didecyldimonium Chloride, Dianthus Caryophyllus Flower Extract, Xanthan Gum, Methylpropanediol, Cetearyl Alcohol, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Phytic Acid, Polysorbate 20, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Citric Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Limonene, Linalool

Hydrolyzed Yeast Extract

Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract

Dimethicone

Ceramide AP

1,2-Hexanediol

Glyceryl Glucoside

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-72 Amide

Sh-Polypeptide-121

Tridecapeptide-1

Polyglucuronic Acid

C9-12 Alkane

Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate

Polygonum Bistorta Root Extract

Bacillus Ferment

Lecithin

Sodium Phytate

Hexylene Glycol

Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose

Ethylhexylglycerin

Magnesium Chloride

Water, Glycerin, Pentylene Glycol, Hydrolyzed Yeast Extract, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Dimethicone, Propanediol, Ceramide AP, 1,2-Hexanediol, Glyceryl Glucoside, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-72 Amide, Sh-Polypeptide-121, Tridecapeptide-1, Polyglucuronic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, C9-12 Alkane, Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Polygonum Bistorta Root Extract, Bacillus Ferment, Lecithin, Sodium Phytate, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Hexylene Glycol, Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose, Xanthan Gum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Caprylyl Glycol, Magnesium Chloride, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate is a lightweight ester created from coconut oil fatty acids, caprylic acid, and capric acid.

It is an emollient that helps soften skin and reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL). What sets it apart from heavier emollients is its ultralight, non-greasy feel.

Once applied, this ingredient dries down quickly and leaves a dry, silky finish behind. This also helps improve spreadability and texture.

This ingredient has an excellent safety-record and is non-irritating.

Typical concentrations for cosmetics range from 0.5-62%.

Research on Malassezia growth found no growth on fatty acid esters with chain lengths shorter than 12 carbons (it prefers C11-24).

Since Coco-Caprylate/Caprate is built on C8 and C10 fatty acids, it is out of the range that Malassezia metabolizes, and therefore safe for fungal acne.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:

Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.

On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.

Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.

Potassium Sorbate is a preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. It is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.

This ingredient comes from potassium salt derived from sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a natural antibiotic and effective against fungus.

Both potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.

You'll often find this ingredient used with other preservatives.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Sodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.

Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.

Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.

It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.

Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.

We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

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