Dermalogica Dynamic Skin Recovery SPF50 Moisturizer Versus Paula's Choice Skin Recovery Daily Moisturizing Lotion SPF 30

Dermalogica Dynamic Skin Recovery SPF50 Moisturizer Versus Paula's Choice Skin Recovery Daily Moisturizing Lotion SPF 30

This chemical sunscreen covers most of the UV range, lighter on the deep UVA that drives aging.

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Avena Sativa Kernel Extract and Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 3%

Homosalate 5%

Ethylhexyl Salicylate 3%

Octocrylene 7%

Water

Carthamus Tinctorius Oleosomes

Butylene Glycol

Dimethicone

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

Propanediol

Polysorbate 80

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Aniba Rosodora Wood Oil

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil

Eugenia Caryophyllus Leaf Oil

Saccharomyces Cerevisiae Extract

Laminaria Digitata Extract

Rosa Damascena Flower Oil

Eugenia Caryophyllus Bud Oil

Citrus Limon Peel Oil

Cymbopogon Schoenanthus Oil

Cymbopogon Martini Oil

Cupressus Sempervirens Leaf Oil

Citrus Limon Peel Extract

Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil

Tocopherol

Squalane

Caprylyl Glycol

Carnosine

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Lecithin

Urea

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Glycerin

Pentylene Glycol

Bisabolol

Glucosamine Hcl

Ethylhexylglycerin

1,2-Hexanediol

Gluconolactone

Polysorbate 60

Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate

Sorbitan Isostearate

Decyl Glucoside

Aminomethyl Propanol

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Polysilicone-11

Sodium Acrylates Copolymer

Phenethyl Alcohol

Sodium Benzoate

Linalool

Eugenol

Limonene

Citronellol

Geraniol

Benzyl Benzoate

Citral

CI 77891

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 3%, Homosalate 5%, Ethylhexyl Salicylate 3%, Octocrylene 7%, Water, Carthamus Tinctorius Oleosomes, Butylene Glycol, Dimethicone, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Propanediol, Polysorbate 80, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Aniba Rosodora Wood Oil, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil, Eugenia Caryophyllus Leaf Oil, Saccharomyces Cerevisiae Extract, Laminaria Digitata Extract, Rosa Damascena Flower Oil, Eugenia Caryophyllus Bud Oil, Citrus Limon Peel Oil, Cymbopogon Schoenanthus Oil, Cymbopogon Martini Oil, Cupressus Sempervirens Leaf Oil, Citrus Limon Peel Extract, Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil, Tocopherol, Squalane, Caprylyl Glycol, Carnosine, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Lecithin, Urea, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Pentylene Glycol, Bisabolol, Glucosamine Hcl, Ethylhexylglycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Gluconolactone, Polysorbate 60, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Sorbitan Isostearate, Decyl Glucoside, Aminomethyl Propanol, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Polysilicone-11, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Phenethyl Alcohol, Sodium Benzoate, Linalool, Eugenol, Limonene, Citronellol, Geraniol, Benzyl Benzoate, Citral, CI 77891

Titanium Dioxide 3.85%

Zinc Oxide 3.12%

Isononyl Isononanoate

Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil

Cyclopentasiloxane

Glyceryl Stearate

PEG-100 Stearate

Cetearyl Alcohol

Glycine Soja Sterols

Vp/Eicosene Copolymer

Avena Sativa Kernel Extract

Sodium Hyaluronate

Allantoin

Tocopheryl Acetate

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

Superoxide Dismutase

Ubiquinone

Ceramide Ng

Methicone

Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12

PEG-10 Dimethicone

Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract

Tribehenin

PEG-10 Phytosterol

Sorbitan Stearate

Polyhydroxystearic Acid

Alumina

Polysorbate 20

Aluminum Stearate

Xanthan Gum

Disodium EDTA

Phenoxyethanol

Chlorphenesin

Titanium Dioxide 3.85%, Zinc Oxide 3.12%, Water, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Isononyl Isononanoate, Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil, Cyclopentasiloxane, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Butylene Glycol, Pentylene Glycol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Dimethicone, Glycine Soja Sterols, Vp/Eicosene Copolymer, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Glycerin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Allantoin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Superoxide Dismutase, Ubiquinone, Ceramide Ng, Methicone, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, PEG-10 Dimethicone, Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Tribehenin, PEG-10 Phytosterol, Sorbitan Stearate, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Alumina, Polysorbate 20, Aluminum Stearate, Xanthan Gum, Caprylyl Glycol, Disodium EDTA, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin

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Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate is a lightweight emollient made by combinig benzoic acid with fatty alcohols that are 12-15 carbons long.

In cosmetics, it plays several roles:

The Cosmetic Review Expert Panel has concluded the alkyl benzoate group to be safe as used in cosmetics; it wasn't found to be a skin irritant and unlikely to be absorbed due to its low water solubility.

This report recorded almost 1000 reported uses with concentrations up to 59% in leave-on products but your cosmetics will typically use 0.5-15% depending on the product.

It's often called a "SPF booster": this is because it keeps UV filters properly dissolved and evenly distributed to support a sunscreen's performance. It doesn't actually raise SPF on its own.

Overall, this ingredient is well tolerated.

This ingredient is fungal acne safe because it is an ester of benzoic acid.

Think of this ingredient as two parts stuck together: an oily part and an acid part. Malassezia only gets a meal when it can snip off a fatty acid to eat. With C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, the acid part is benzoic acid, which isn't a fatty acid and which the yeast can't use as food.

Benzoic acid is actually used as a preservative to stop yeast from growing.

The oily part is a blend of C12-15 fatty alcohols but fatty alcohols in this size range can support only a little Malassezia growth (mostly for one species of Malassezia as well).

In the ingredient, those alcohols stay locked inside the molecule. The yeast can only reach them by snipping the benzoate bond, and that type of bond is harder for it to cut than a normal fatty bond.

So not much gets released. And whatever does get snipped comes packaged with benzoic acid, which discourages yeast growth.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.

What it does:

Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:

Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.

Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.

This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.

Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:

Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.

On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.

Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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