Dermalogica Dynamic Skin Retinol Serum Versus Paula's Choice Discoloration Repair Serum

Dermalogica Dynamic Skin Retinol Serum Versus Paula's Choice Discoloration Repair Serum

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate and Retinol to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

This brightening serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Tranexamic Acid to fade the look of dark spots and brighten dull-looking skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Squalane

Glycerin

Hexyldecanol

Propanediol

Dimethyl Isosorbide

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Hydroxyacetophenone

Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate

Retinol

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract

Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil

Aniba Rosodora Wood Oil

Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil

Santalum Album Oil

Oryza Sativa Bran Extract

Helianthus Annuus Extract

Cupressus Sempervirens Oil

Juniperus Virginiana Oil

Abies Sibirica Oil

Tocopherol

Beta-Glucan

Caprylyl Glycol

BHT

Ceramide NP

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Cetyl Palmitate

1,2-Hexanediol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Polysorbate 60

Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate

Hydroxystearic Acid

Polysorbate 20

Sorbitan Isostearate

Laureth-23

Trideceth-6 Phosphate

Sodium Hydroxide

Citric Acid

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6

Sodium Benzoate

Benzyl Alcohol

Linalool

Water, Squalane, Glycerin, Hexyldecanol, Propanediol, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Hydroxyacetophenone, Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, Retinol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil, Aniba Rosodora Wood Oil, Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil, Santalum Album Oil, Oryza Sativa Bran Extract, Helianthus Annuus Extract, Cupressus Sempervirens Oil, Juniperus Virginiana Oil, Abies Sibirica Oil, Tocopherol, Beta-Glucan, Caprylyl Glycol, BHT, Ceramide NP, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetyl Palmitate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Polysorbate 60, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Hydroxystearic Acid, Polysorbate 20, Sorbitan Isostearate, Laureth-23, Trideceth-6 Phosphate, Sodium Hydroxide, Citric Acid, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Sodium Benzoate, Benzyl Alcohol, Linalool

Niacinamide

Tranexamic Acid

C13-15 Alkane

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

Ethyl Macadamiate

Behenyl Alcohol

Glyceryl Stearate

Butylene Glycol

Silybum Marianum Seed Oil

Lactobacillus/Coconut Fruit Juice Ferment Filtrate

Lecithin

Bakuchiol

Xanthan Gum

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Allantoin

Glycine Soja Oil

Hexylene Glycol

Boerhavia Diffusa Root Extract

Glycine Soja Sterols

Sodium Phytate

Malic Acid

Phenoxyethanol

Water, Niacinamide, Glycerin, Tranexamic Acid, C13-15 Alkane, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Ethyl Macadamiate, Behenyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Butylene Glycol, Silybum Marianum Seed Oil, Tocopherol, Lactobacillus/Coconut Fruit Juice Ferment Filtrate, Lecithin, Bakuchiol, Xanthan Gum, Caprylyl Glycol, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Allantoin, Glycine Soja Oil, Hexylene Glycol, Boerhavia Diffusa Root Extract, Glycine Soja Sterols, Citric Acid, Sodium Phytate, Malic Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.

Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.

However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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