Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Dermanat Serum con Vitamina C Versus The [pH]ix The [pH]iller Peptide+ Serum

Dermanat Serum con Vitamina C Versus The [pH]ix The [pH]iller Peptide+ Serum This brightening serum is formulated around Ascorbyl Methylsilanol Pectinate to brighten dull-looking skin. This anti-aging serum is formulated around Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 and Tripept

Dermanat Serum con Vitamina C Versus The [pH]ix The [pH]iller Peptide+ Serum

This brightening serum is formulated around Ascorbyl Methylsilanol Pectinate to brighten dull-looking skin.

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 and Tripeptide-10 Citrulline to soften the look of wrinkles.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Ascorbyl Methylsilanol Pectinate

Olea Europaea Fruit Oil

Glycerin

Propylene Glycol

Dimethicone

Cetyl Alcohol

Beeswax

Triethanolamine

Benzyl Alcohol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Glyceryl Stearate

Xanthan Gum

Parfum

Water, Ascorbyl Methylsilanol Pectinate, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Glycerin, Propylene Glycol, Dimethicone, Cetyl Alcohol, Beeswax, Triethanolamine, Benzyl Alcohol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Glyceryl Stearate, Xanthan Gum, Parfum

Nannochloropsis Oculata Extract

Pullulan

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Acmella Oleracea Extract

Allantoin

Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Extract

Epilobium Angustifolium Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract

Ascorbic Acid

Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract

Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein

Hydrolyzed Soy Protein

Tripeptide-10 Citrulline

Tripeptide-1

Lecithin

Butylene Glycol

Carbomer

Caprylyl Glycol

Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Acrylamide/Sodium Acrylate Copolymer

Paraffinum Liquidum

Trideceth-6

Diazolidinyl Urea

Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate

Tetrasodium EDTA

Phenoxyethanol

Sodium Benzoate

Alcohol

Potassium Sorbate

Water, Nannochloropsis Oculata Extract, Pullulan, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Acmella Oleracea Extract, Allantoin, Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Extract, Epilobium Angustifolium Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Glycerin, Ascorbic Acid, Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Tripeptide-10 Citrulline, Tripeptide-1, Lecithin, Butylene Glycol, Xanthan Gum, Carbomer, Triethanolamine, Caprylyl Glycol, Dimethicone, Cetyl Alcohol, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Glyceryl Stearate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Acrylamide/Sodium Acrylate Copolymer, Paraffinum Liquidum, Trideceth-6, Propylene Glycol, Diazolidinyl Urea, Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate, Tetrasodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Benzoate, Alcohol, Potassium Sorbate

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Cetyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol. Fatty Alcohols are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product.

Its main roles are:

Though it has "alcohol" in the name, it is not related to denatured alcohol or ethyl alcohol.

The FDA allows products labeled "alcohol-free" to have fatty alcohols.

This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. It is a primary fatty alcohol with a chain length above 12 carbons. A study from 2019 show Malassezia can feed on fatty alcohols in this range, so it may trigger fungal acne in those prone to it.

Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.

What it does:

Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:

Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.

Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.

This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.

Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Glyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.

Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.

This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.

A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.

Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.

Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.

Propylene Glycol is a synthetic, colorless, odorless liquid that has been a staple in cosmetics for decades. It is a skin conditioning agent, humectant, and solvent.

As a humectant, it draw water to the skin to reduce flaking and restore suppleness. It's also a solvent that helps dissolve other actives and keeps formulas stable across temperature changes.

The CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be nontoxic and clinical studies show no sensitization at cosmetic use concentrations.

True allergic reactions are quite rare: a 15-year retrospective study of 6,751 patients found only 0.31% had a positive reaction (and less than half were considered clinically relevant).

It seemed that when sensitization does occur, it's most commonly linked to topical medication (like corticosteroids) and not cosmetics. Allergic contact dermatitis also appears largely limited to individuals with underlying skin conditions.

Overall, propylene glycol is a well-studied ingredient that most people can tolerate without issue.

Triethanolamine (TEA) is an emulsifier and pH adjuster. It is created using ethylene oxide and ammonia. This gives Triethanolamine a nitrogen core and a similar scent to ammonia.

As an emulsifier, it prevents ingredients from separating and enhances texture by adding volume to a product.

PH adjusters are common in cosmetic products. The pH of a product can affect the effectiveness of other ingredients. A product with a high pH may also irritate the skin.

If you are looking for the tea leaf ingredient, click here.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

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The reference edit

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Comparison edit

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