Dieux Skin Air Angel Peptide Plumping Gel Cream Versus MARA Beauty Sea Moss + Stem Cells Sea Dream Firming Algae Crème

Dieux Skin Air Angel Peptide Plumping Gel Cream Versus MARA Beauty Sea Moss + Stem Cells Sea Dream Firming Algae Crème

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12 and Squalane to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Squalane to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Dimethicone

Dimethicone Crosspolymer

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Imperata Cylindrica Root Extract

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Methylpropanediol

Squalane

Cetyl Alcohol

Meadowfoam Estolide

Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline

Tribehenin

Sodium PCA

Urea

Carbomer

Phenoxyethanol

Caprylyl Glycol

Collagen Amino Acids

Propanediol

Haematococcus Pluvialis Extract

Trehalose

Linoleic Acid

Phytosterols

Phospholipids

Palmitic Acid

Polysorbate 60

Sorbitan Isostearate

Ceramide Ng

Hexylene Glycol

PEG-10 Phytosterol

Polyquaternium-51

Triacetin

Sodium Hyaluronate

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12

Sodium Hydroxide

Lactic Acid

Water, Glycerin, Dimethicone, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Imperata Cylindrica Root Extract, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Methylpropanediol, Squalane, Cetyl Alcohol, Meadowfoam Estolide, Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline, Tribehenin, Sodium PCA, Urea, Carbomer, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Collagen Amino Acids, Propanediol, Haematococcus Pluvialis Extract, Trehalose, Linoleic Acid, Phytosterols, Phospholipids, Palmitic Acid, Polysorbate 60, Sorbitan Isostearate, Ceramide Ng, Hexylene Glycol, PEG-10 Phytosterol, Polyquaternium-51, Triacetin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Sodium Hydroxide, Lactic Acid

Palmaria Palmata Extract

Ricinus Communis Seed Oil

Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter

Pentylene Glycol

Cetearyl Alcohol

Glyceryl Stearate

Cetearyl Olivate

Citrullus Lanatus Seed Oil

Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil

Glyceryl Caprylate

Sorbitan Olivate

Sodium Gluconate

Sodium Lactate

Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose

Maris Aqua

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate

Kappaphycus Alvarezii Extract

Caprylhydroxamic Acid

Eclipta Prostrata Extract

Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil

Vaccinium Myrtillus Seed Oil

Oenothera Biennis Oil

Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil

Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil

Malus Domestica Fruit Cell Culture Extract

Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil

Sodium Phytate

Lecithin

Benzoic Acid

Hydrolyzed Pinus Sibirica Seedcake Extract

Gigartina Stellata Extract

Chondrus Crispus Extract

Sodium Nitrate

Xanthan Gum

Cystoseira Tamariscifolia Extract

Hydrated Silica

Alaria Esculenta Extract

Sodium Benzoate

Acanthopanax Senticosus Root Extract

Disodium Phosphate

Tocopherol

Silica Dimethyl Silylate

Sodium Phosphate

Potassium Sorbate

Palmaria Palmata Extract, Water, Ricinus Communis Seed Oil, Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter, Pentylene Glycol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Olivate, Citrullus Lanatus Seed Oil, Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil, Glyceryl Caprylate, Sorbitan Olivate, Squalane, Sodium Gluconate, Sodium Lactate, Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose, Maris Aqua, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Kappaphycus Alvarezii Extract, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Eclipta Prostrata Extract, Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil, Vaccinium Myrtillus Seed Oil, Oenothera Biennis Oil, Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil, Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil, Malus Domestica Fruit Cell Culture Extract, Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil, Sodium Phytate, Sodium PCA, Lecithin, Benzoic Acid, Hydrolyzed Pinus Sibirica Seedcake Extract, Gigartina Stellata Extract, Chondrus Crispus Extract, Sodium Nitrate, Xanthan Gum, Cystoseira Tamariscifolia Extract, Hydrated Silica, Alaria Esculenta Extract, Sodium Benzoate, Acanthopanax Senticosus Root Extract, Disodium Phosphate, Tocopherol, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, Sodium Phosphate, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Hydroxide

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.

In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.

Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.

"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.

Sodium PCA (the salt of PCA) is one of the most well-established humectants in skincare.

Why is it so special? Your skin already makes it naturally; it's a natural component of your skin's Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF), or the mix of water-binding compounds inside your skin cells that keeps things soft and hydrated.

As a cosmetic ingredient, it grabs water and holds it in the upper layers of skin to smooth roughness and ease dehydration.

There's some clinical support for the NMF approach with a study showing that a cream built to mimic the skin's NMF significantly boosted hydration.

Safety-wise, this ingredient non-irritating, non-comedogenic, and non-phototoxic in testing, with minimal skin absorption.

It also works really well with other hydrators like glycerin or hyaluronic acid, and typical usage is somewhere between 0.2-4%.

Squalane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).

It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.

This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.

Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.

Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.

No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).

Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.

This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.

Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.

Read more about squalene with an "e".

Though squalane is often called an oil, it’s technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.

The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.

Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.

A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.

The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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