Dr. Idriss Major Fade Active Seal Moisturizer Versus Youth To The People Polypeptide-121 Future Cream with Peptides and Ceramides

Dr. Idriss Major Fade Active Seal Moisturizer Versus Youth To The People Polypeptide-121 Future Cream with Peptides and Ceramides

This brightening moisturizer is formulated around Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate and 4-Butylresorcinol to fade the look of dark spots and brighten dull-looking skin.

This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid and Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9 to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

Squalane

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Triheptanoin

Pentylene Glycol

Phenyl Trimethicone

Oxidized Glutathione

4-Butylresorcinol

Hexapeptide-2

Hydrolyzed Brassica Napus Seedcake Extract

Ceramide NP

Ceramide AP

Ceramide EOP

Tocopherol

Butylene Glycol

Cetearyl Olivate

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Sorbitan Olivate

Ethylhexylglycerin

Polysorbate 60

Xanthan Gum

Dilinoleic Acid/Butanediol Copolymer

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Cholesterol

Phytosphingosine

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate

Carbomer

Sodium Hydroxide

Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate

Sorbitan Isostearate

Castor Oil/Ipdi Copolymer

Sodium Benzoate

Potassium Sorbate

Phenoxyethanol

Water, Glycerin, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Squalane, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Triheptanoin, Pentylene Glycol, Phenyl Trimethicone, Oxidized Glutathione, 4-Butylresorcinol, Hexapeptide-2, Hydrolyzed Brassica Napus Seedcake Extract, Ceramide NP, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP, Tocopherol, Butylene Glycol, Cetearyl Olivate, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Sorbitan Olivate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Polysorbate 60, Xanthan Gum, Dilinoleic Acid/Butanediol Copolymer, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Cholesterol, Phytosphingosine, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Carbomer, Sodium Hydroxide, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Sorbitan Isostearate, Castor Oil/Ipdi Copolymer, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Phenoxyethanol

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Trimethylolpropane Tricaprylate/Tricaprate

Tridecyl Trimellitate

Propanediol

Sh-Polypeptide-121

Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate

Panthenol

Niacinamide

Proline

Tocopheryl Acetate

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice

Hydrolyzed Cannabis Sativa Seed Extract

Hydrolyzed Rice Protein

Hydrolyzed Pea Protein

Salvia Hispanica Seed Extract

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2

Hibiscus Sabdariffa Fruit Extract

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer

Hydrolyzed Linseed Seed

Cetearyl Alcohol

Cetearyl Glucoside

Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate

Dilinoleic Acid

Benzyl Alcohol

Zingiber Officinale Root Extract

Bisabolol

Caprylyl Glycol

Dimethyl Isosorbide

Dipropylene Glycol

Erythritol

Glucose

1,2-Hexanediol

Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate

Glyceryl Stearate

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6

Polysorbate 20

Caprylhydroxamic Acid

Glycine

Hydroxyacetophenone

T-Butyl Alcohol

Citric Acid

Sodium Citrate

Sodium Lactate

Water, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Trimethylolpropane Tricaprylate/Tricaprate, Tridecyl Trimellitate, Propanediol, Sh-Polypeptide-121, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Panthenol, Niacinamide, Proline, Tocopheryl Acetate, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Hydrolyzed Cannabis Sativa Seed Extract, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Hydrolyzed Pea Protein, Salvia Hispanica Seed Extract, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2, Hibiscus Sabdariffa Fruit Extract, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Hydrolyzed Linseed Seed, Castor Oil/Ipdi Copolymer, Ceramide AP, Ceramide NP, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Glucoside, Glycerin, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Dilinoleic Acid, Benzyl Alcohol, Zingiber Officinale Root Extract, Bisabolol, Caprylyl Glycol, Carbomer, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Dipropylene Glycol, Erythritol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Glucose, 1,2-Hexanediol, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Glyceryl Stearate, Phytosphingosine, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Polysorbate 20, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Potassium Sorbate, Glycine, Hydroxyacetophenone, Sodium Benzoate, T-Butyl Alcohol, Citric Acid, Sodium Citrate, Sodium Lactate, Triheptanoin, Xanthan Gum

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.

Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.

It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.

Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.

A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.

Castor Oil/Ipdi Copolymer is an oil and isn't fungal acne safe.

Ceramide AP is is a skin-identical lipid that mimics what your skin already makes naturally. Ceramides help maintain epidermal integrity and barrier function.

You'll often see this ingredient paired with other ceramides (like ceramide NP), cholesterol, or fatty acids because this combination best mimics the natural lipid mix your skin already has.

The skin's ability to produce ceramides gets disrupted in skin conditions like eczema. This in turn weakens the skin barrier and applying ceramides topically has been shown to replenish what's been lost to restore barrier function.

Most of the studies with Ceramide AP test it as part of a multi-ceramide complex; studies reinforce ceramide AP's role in rebalancing ceramides in skin and improving skin hydration.

Ceramide NP (formerly known as Ceramide 3) is one of the skin's naturally occurring lipids.

Since ceramides are the major lipid components of the skin, they are crucial for maintaining skin barrier and hydration. Ceramide NP most closely mirrors the dominant kind in human skin amongst ceramide subtypes.

This ceramide works by slotting into gaps within the stratum corneum's lipid matrix to limit trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and shield the skin against external irritants.

A study with 312 patients found that using a ceramide-containing routine for 4 weeks reduced the severity of atopic dermatitis by over 61%.

Another clinical study in subjects aged 60 and older found that a ceramide body wash and moisturizer improved skin dryness and itchy skin in 15 days.

Overall, ceramides are considered non-irritating and safety tests have found little to no observable adverse effects from using this ingredient.

Ceramide NP is usually sourced from plants (like soybean or rice bran), or produced synthetically.

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate is a lightweight ester created from coconut oil fatty acids, caprylic acid, and capric acid.

It is an emollient that helps soften skin and reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL). What sets it apart from heavier emollients is its ultralight, non-greasy feel.

Once applied, this ingredient dries down quickly and leaves a dry, silky finish behind. This also helps improve spreadability and texture.

This ingredient has an excellent safety-record and is non-irritating.

Typical concentrations for cosmetics range from 0.5-62%.

Research on Malassezia growth found no growth on fatty acid esters with chain lengths shorter than 12 carbons (it prefers C11-24).

Since Coco-Caprylate/Caprate is built on C8 and C10 fatty acids, it is out of the range that Malassezia metabolizes, and therefore safe for fungal acne.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Phytosphingosine is a phospholipid naturally found in our skin as a building block for ceramides.. It helps moisturize, soothe, and protect skin.

Phytosphingosine contributes to your skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF). The NMF is responsible for hydration, a strong barrier, and plasticity. Our NMF decreases with age. Increasing NMF leads to more healthy and hydrated skin.

Studies show products formulated with NMF ingredients help strengthen our skin's barrier. Having a healthy skin barrier reduces irritation and increases hydration. Our skin barrier is responsible for having plump and firm skin. It also helps protect our skin against infection, allergies, and inflammation.

Fun fact: Phytosphingosine is abundant in plants and fungi.

More ingredients that help boost collagen in skin:

Potassium Sorbate is a preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. It is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.

This ingredient comes from potassium salt derived from sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a natural antibiotic and effective against fungus.

Both potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.

You'll often find this ingredient used with other preservatives.

Sodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.

Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.

Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.

It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.

Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.

We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.

We don't have a description for Triheptanoin yet.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

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