Drunk Elephant A-Passioni Retinol Cream Versus Paula's Choice Pro Retinaldehyde Dual-Retinoid Treatment

Drunk Elephant A-Passioni Retinol Cream Versus Paula's Choice Pro Retinaldehyde Dual-Retinoid Treatment

This anti-aging treatment is formulated around Retinol and Niacinamide to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

This anti-aging treatment is formulated around Retinal and Oleyl Adapalenate to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Coco-Caprylate

Stearic Acid

Coconut Alkanes

Glyceryl Stearate

Niacinamide

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Cetearyl Alcohol

Pentylene Glycol

Passiflora Edulis Seed Oil

Retinol

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil

Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil

Cetyl Ethylhexanoate

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Brassica Oleracea Acephala Leaf Extract

Brassica Oleracea Italica Extract

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

Chrysin

Persea Gratissima Oil

Linoleic Acid

Linolenic Acid

Ceramide NP

Xanthophylls

Phytosphingosine

Phytosterols

Jojoba Esters

Physalis Pubescens Fruit Juice

Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate

Oryza Sativa Extract

Glycine Soja Oil

Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil

Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12

Cetyl Palmitate

Trehalose

Lauric Acid

Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer

Olea Europaea Fruit Oil

Glucosamine Hcl

Tocopheryl Acetate

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Pisum Sativum Extract

Tocopherol

Bambusa Vulgaris Leaf/Stem Extract

Phenoxyethanol

Caprylyl Glycol

Carbomer

Trideceth-6 Phosphate

N-Hydroxysuccinimide

Ceteareth-20

Sodium Hydroxide

Laureth-23

Steareth-20

Propanediol

Chlorhexidine Digluconate

Polysorbate 20

Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate

Chlorphenesin

Potassium Sorbate

Ethylhexylglycerin

Water, Glycerin, Coco-Caprylate, Stearic Acid, Coconut Alkanes, Glyceryl Stearate, Niacinamide, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetearyl Alcohol, Pentylene Glycol, Passiflora Edulis Seed Oil, Retinol, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil, Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Brassica Oleracea Acephala Leaf Extract, Brassica Oleracea Italica Extract, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Chrysin, Persea Gratissima Oil, Linoleic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Ceramide NP, Xanthophylls, Phytosphingosine, Phytosterols, Jojoba Esters, Physalis Pubescens Fruit Juice, Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate, Oryza Sativa Extract, Glycine Soja Oil, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Cetyl Palmitate, Trehalose, Lauric Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Glucosamine Hcl, Tocopheryl Acetate, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Pisum Sativum Extract, Tocopherol, Bambusa Vulgaris Leaf/Stem Extract, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Carbomer, Trideceth-6 Phosphate, N-Hydroxysuccinimide, Ceteareth-20, Sodium Hydroxide, Laureth-23, Steareth-20, Propanediol, Chlorhexidine Digluconate, Polysorbate 20, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Chlorphenesin, Potassium Sorbate, Ethylhexylglycerin

Dimethicone

Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate

Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate

Retinal

Oleyl Adapalenate

Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate

Albatrellus Confluens Extract

Punica Granatum Pericarp Extract

Stearyl Alcohol

Hydroxyapatite

Butylene Glycol

Cetyl Glyceryl Ether

Ricinus Communis Seed Oil

Sodium Polyacrylate

Isopropyl Myristate

Hydroxyacetophenone

Caprylhydroxamic Acid

Sodium Phytate

Xanthan Gum

Hydroxystearic Acid

Ceramide AP

1,2-Hexanediol

Sorbitan Oleate

Naringin

Citric Acid

Titanium Dioxide

Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Dimethicone, Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate, Propanediol, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Retinal, Oleyl Adapalenate, Tocopherol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate, Albatrellus Confluens Extract, Punica Granatum Pericarp Extract, Glyceryl Stearate, Stearyl Alcohol, Hydroxyapatite, Butylene Glycol, Cetyl Glyceryl Ether, Ricinus Communis Seed Oil, Sodium Polyacrylate, Isopropyl Myristate, Hydroxyacetophenone, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Sodium Phytate, Xanthan Gum, Glycerin, Hydroxystearic Acid, Ceramide AP, 1,2-Hexanediol, Sorbitan Oleate, Naringin, Citric Acid, Titanium Dioxide

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Glyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.

Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.

This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.

A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.

Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.

Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Jojoba oil is one of the most well-studied plant-derived ingredients in cosmetics. It is an emollient with a special structure.

Because it is made up of 97-98% wax esters, it closely mirrors the linear monoesters found in human sebum. This makes it skin compatible, non-greasy, and lightweight.

Unlike other plant oils, jojoba wax doesn't easily penetrate skin. It mostly works in the uppermost layers as an emollient. This just means it forms a light barrier on the skin to help retain moisture.

Formulations with jojoba esters up to 90% reduced transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and increased barrier recovery by 81% (outperforming bisabolol at 47%).

Besides barrier support, the science also suggests jojoba to have anti-inflammatory effects and potential applications for skin infections, aging, and wound healing.

Fun fact: Indigenous cultures have used jojoba as a moisturizer and to help treat burns for centuries.

Fungal acne: The Malassezia yeast is known to metabolize fatty acids in the C11-24 range and jojoba's dominant fatty acid components fall into this range. This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.

Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.

It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.

One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.

Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.

Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.

Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.

The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.

Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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