Skin science article
Drunk Elephant Silkamino Mega-Moisturizing Masker Versus Beauty of Joseon Dynasty Cream
Drunk Elephant Silkamino Mega-Moisturizing Masker Versus Beauty of Joseon Dynasty Cream This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Panax Ginseng Root Water and Niacinamide to strengthen the skin barrier. What's inside Key Ingredients No key ingredien
Drunk Elephant Silkamino Mega-Moisturizing Masker Versus Beauty of Joseon Dynasty Cream
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Panax Ginseng Root Water and Niacinamide to strengthen the skin barrier.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
No key ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Cetearyl Alcohol
Shea Butter Glycerides
Behentrimonium Chloride
Glycerin
Brassicamidopropyl Dimethylamine
Cetyl Alcohol
Diheptyl Succinate
Polyester-37
Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Disunfloweroylethyl Dimonium Chloride
Sunflower Seed Oil Glycerides
Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Butter
Cetrimonium Chloride
Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil
Silk Amino Acids
Hydrolyzed Silk
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Sericin
Panthenol
Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract
Lauryl Lactyl Lactate
Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride
Citric Acid
Caprylyl Glycol
Sodium Benzoate
Ethylhexylglycerin
Hexylene Glycol
Phenoxyethanol
Potassium Sorbate
Benzyl Alcohol
Water, Cetearyl Alcohol, Shea Butter Glycerides, Behentrimonium Chloride, Glycerin, Brassicamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Cetyl Alcohol, Diheptyl Succinate, Polyester-37, Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Disunfloweroylethyl Dimonium Chloride, Sunflower Seed Oil Glycerides, Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Butter, Cetrimonium Chloride, Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil, Silk Amino Acids, Hydrolyzed Silk, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Sericin, Panthenol, Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract, Lauryl Lactyl Lactate, Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Citric Acid, Caprylyl Glycol, Sodium Benzoate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hexylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Potassium Sorbate, Benzyl Alcohol
Oryza Sativa Bran Water
Panax Ginseng Root Water
Hydrogenated Polydecene
1,2-Hexanediol
Niacinamide
Squalane
Butylene Glycol
Propanediol
Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate
Cetearyl Olivate
Sorbitan Olivate
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Xanthan Gum
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Tromethamine
Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil
Hydrogenated Coconut Oil
Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer
Adenosine
Disodium EDTA
Hyaluronic Acid
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Sodium Hyaluronate
Honey Extract
Ceramide NP
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Coptis Japonica Root Extract
Raphanus Sativus Seed Extract
Lycium Chinense Fruit Extract
Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract
Phellinus Linteus Extract
Dextrin
Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract
Water, Oryza Sativa Bran Water, Glycerin, Panax Ginseng Root Water, Hydrogenated Polydecene, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Squalane, Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Xanthan Gum, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Tromethamine, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Hydrogenated Coconut Oil, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Disodium EDTA, Hyaluronic Acid, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Honey Extract, Ceramide NP, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Coptis Japonica Root Extract, Raphanus Sativus Seed Extract, Lycium Chinense Fruit Extract, Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract, Phellinus Linteus Extract, Dextrin, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!