Skin science article
e.l.f. cosmetics Holy Hydration! Eye Cream Versus Derma E Vitamin C No Dark Circles Perfecting Eye Cream
e.l.f. cosmetics Holy Hydration! Eye Cream Versus Derma E Vitamin C No Dark Circles Perfecting Eye Cream This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin. T
e.l.f. cosmetics Holy Hydration! Eye Cream Versus Derma E Vitamin C No Dark Circles Perfecting Eye Cream
This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.
This brightening eye moisturizer is formulated around Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate and Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate to fade the look of dark spots and brighten dull-looking skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Glyceryl Stearate Citrate
Jojoba Esters
Diisostearyl Malate
C10-18 Triglycerides
Cetearyl Alcohol
Silica
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Soluble Collagen
Sodium Hyaluronate
Tocopherol
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Butylene Glycol
1,2-Hexanediol
Potassium Cetyl Phosphate
Polysorbate 20
Polysorbate 80
Isohexadecane
Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Carbomer
Hydroxyacetophenone
Disodium EDTA
Water, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Jojoba Esters, Diisostearyl Malate, C10-18 Triglycerides, Cetearyl Alcohol, Silica, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Soluble Collagen, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopherol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Butylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Polysorbate 20, Polysorbate 80, Isohexadecane, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Carbomer, Hydroxyacetophenone, Disodium EDTA
Coco-Caprylate
Titanium Dioxide
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
Cocoglycerides
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Ceteareth-6 Olivate
Diethylhexyl Succinate
Lauryl Glucoside
Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate
Kaolin
Bentonite
Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate
Triheptanoin
Curcumin
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Niacinamide
Microcrystalline Cellulose
Panthenol
Sorbitol
Mica
Tocopheryl Acetate
Xanthan Gum
Sodium Phytate
Alumina
Asparagopsis Armata Extract
Caffeine
Ascophyllum Nodosum Extract
Citrus Grandis Peel Oil
Citrus Reticulata Peel Oil
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil
Lavandula Angustifolia Oil
Citrus Reticulata Leaf Oil
Benzyl Acetate
Geraniol
Lavandula Hybrida Oil
Citral
Linalool
Decanal
Citrus Aurantium Flower Oil
Potassium Sorbate
Tin Oxide
Iron Oxides
C13-16 Isoparaffin
Ethylhexylglycerin
Phenoxyethanol
Water, Coco-Caprylate, Titanium Dioxide, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Cocoglycerides, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Ceteareth-6 Olivate, Diethylhexyl Succinate, Lauryl Glucoside, Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate, Kaolin, Bentonite, Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate, Triheptanoin, Curcumin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Niacinamide, Glycerin, Microcrystalline Cellulose, Panthenol, Sorbitol, Mica, Tocopheryl Acetate, Xanthan Gum, Jojoba Esters, Sodium Phytate, Alumina, Asparagopsis Armata Extract, Caffeine, Silica, Ascophyllum Nodosum Extract, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Citrus Grandis Peel Oil, Citrus Reticulata Peel Oil, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Citrus Reticulata Leaf Oil, Benzyl Acetate, Geraniol, Lavandula Hybrida Oil, Citral, Linalool, Decanal, Citrus Aurantium Flower Oil, Potassium Sorbate, Tin Oxide, Iron Oxides, C13-16 Isoparaffin, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Jojoba Esters is a wax created from Jojoba oil. It is an emollient and film-forming ingredient. In bead form, it is an exfoliator.
This ingredient has high oxidative stability, meaning it doesn't break down when exposed to oxygen.
Its similarity to our skin's natural oils makes it a great emollient. Emollients help soften and soothe our skin by creating a barrier on top. This barrier helps trap moisture in, keeping skin hydrated.
It is created using either the hydrogenation or transesterification processes on jojoba oil.
Silica, also known as silicon dioxide, is a naturally occurring mineral. It is used as a fine, spherical, and porous powder in cosmetics.
Though it has exfoliant properties, the function of silica varies depending on the product.
The unique structure of silica enhances the spreadability and adds smoothness, making it a great texture enhancer.
It is also used as an active carrier, emulsifier, and mattifier due to its ability to absorb excess oil.
In some products, tiny microneedles called spicules are made from silica or hydrolyzed sponge. When you rub them in, they lightly polish away dead skin layers and enhance the penetration of active ingredients.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!