Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

e.l.f. cosmetics Holy Hydration! Hydro-Gel Moisturizer Versus The INKEY List Omega Water Cream

e.l.f. cosmetics Holy Hydration! Hydro-Gel Moisturizer Versus The INKEY List Omega Water Cream This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Sodium Hyaluronate and Ceramide NP to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin. This barrier-repair moisturi

e.l.f. cosmetics Holy Hydration! Hydro-Gel Moisturizer Versus The INKEY List Omega Water Cream

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Sodium Hyaluronate and Ceramide NP to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide to strengthen the skin barrier and balance excess oil.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Butylene Glycol

Phenyl Trimethicone

Diisostearyl Malate

Jojoba Esters

Sodium Acrylates Copolymer

Sodium Hyaluronate

Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate

Ceramide NP

Ceramide AP

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Ceramide EOP

Xylitylglucoside

Anhydroxylitol

Phenoxyethanol

Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters

Lecithin

Xylitol

Tromethamine

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Tocopherol

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Caprylyl Glycol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Xanthan Gum

Disodium EDTA

Saccharide Isomerate

Sodium Citrate

Citric Acid

Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate

Carbomer

Phytosphingosine

Polysorbate 20

Cholesterol

Geraniol

Linalool

Parfum

Water, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Butylene Glycol, Phenyl Trimethicone, Diisostearyl Malate, Jojoba Esters, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Ceramide NP, Ceramide AP, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Ceramide EOP, Xylitylglucoside, Anhydroxylitol, Phenoxyethanol, Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters, Lecithin, Xylitol, Tromethamine, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Tocopherol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Xanthan Gum, Disodium EDTA, Saccharide Isomerate, Sodium Citrate, Citric Acid, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Carbomer, Phytosphingosine, Polysorbate 20, Cholesterol, Geraniol, Linalool, Parfum

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

Niacinamide

Propanediol

Betaine

Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Magnesium Sulfate

Glycosphingolipids

Glycolipids

Sodium Benzoate

Disteardimonium Hectorite

Oleic Acid

Potassium Sorbate

Polyglycerin-3

Water, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Propanediol, Betaine, Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Magnesium Sulfate, Glycosphingolipids, Glycolipids, Sodium Benzoate, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Oleic Acid, Potassium Sorbate, Citric Acid, Polyglycerin-3

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.

Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.

However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
  4. 04Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
  5. 05Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
  6. 06Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
  7. 07The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure …
  8. 08Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
  9. 09Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
  10. 10Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
  11. 11Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
  12. 12Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
  13. 13This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
  14. 14Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
  15. 15Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
  16. 16PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil is an emulsifier derived from castor oil.
  17. 17As an emulsifying agent, it helps other ingredients like fragrances and fat-soluble vitamins dissolve cohesively.
  18. 18Due to its large molecule size, it doesn't penetrate beyond the skin's surface.
  19. 19This ingredient has a solid regulatory track record; the CIR Expert Panel first concluded it was safe for use in cosmetics at concentrations up to 100% in 1997. A 2012 reassessment reaffirmed that finding. Safety studies have also found no irritatio…
  20. 20A 2019 study did find this ingredient to grow Malassezia, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

Product

The Inkey List PHA Toner

The Inkey List PHA Toner The Inkey List PHA Toner ingredients explained: Water (Aqua/Eau), Propanediol, Gluconolactone, Niacinamide, Pentylene Glycol, Glycerin, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice,…

Source: incidecoder.comView reference →
03

Comparison edit

Read side by side