Skin science article
Elizavecca Peptide 3D Fix Elastic Bubble Facial Cream Versus MEDI-PEEL Mela Plus Tox Ampoule
Elizavecca Peptide 3D Fix Elastic Bubble Facial Cream Versus MEDI-PEEL Mela Plus Tox Ampoule This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Centella Asiatica Extract and Niacinamide to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture. This brightening amp
Elizavecca Peptide 3D Fix Elastic Bubble Facial Cream Versus MEDI-PEEL Mela Plus Tox Ampoule
This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Centella Asiatica Extract and Niacinamide to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.
This brightening ampoule is formulated around Niacinamide and Ascorbic Acid to fade the look of dark spots and brighten dull-looking skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Centella Asiatica Extract
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Dipropylene Glycol
Methyl Perfluoroisobutyl Ether
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Camellia Japonica Seed Oil
Decyl Glucoside
Niacinamide
Glycerin
Glycereth-26
Sodium Hyaluronate
Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Copper Tripeptide-1
Butylene Glycol
Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract
Cellulose Gum
Hexylene Glycol
Parfum
Totarol
Ethylhexylglycerin
Sodium Myristoyl Glutamate
Decylene Glycol
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Hydrolyzed Corn Starch
Beta-Glucan
Allantoin
Adenosine
Disodium EDTA
1,2-Hexanediol
Sucrose
Sodium Hydroxide
Asiaticoside
Phenoxyethanol
Caprylyl Glycol
Astragalus Membranaceus Root Extract
Cnidium Officinale Root Extract
Angelica Gigas Root Extract
Rehmannia Glutinosa Root Extract
Panax Ginseng Root Extract
Atractylodes Japonica Rhizome Extract
Poria Cocos Extract
Prunus Mume Flower Extract
Oenothera Biennis Seed Extract
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Paeonia Lactiflora Root Extract
Cinnamomum Cassia Bark Extract
CI 42090
Sh-Oligopeptide-1
Water, Centella Asiatica Extract, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Dipropylene Glycol, Methyl Perfluoroisobutyl Ether, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Camellia Japonica Seed Oil, Decyl Glucoside, Niacinamide, Glycerin, Glycereth-26, Sodium Hyaluronate, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Copper Tripeptide-1, Butylene Glycol, Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract, Cellulose Gum, Hexylene Glycol, Parfum, Totarol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Myristoyl Glutamate, Decylene Glycol, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Hydrolyzed Corn Starch, Beta-Glucan, Allantoin, Adenosine, Disodium EDTA, 1,2-Hexanediol, Sucrose, Sodium Hydroxide, Asiaticoside, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Astragalus Membranaceus Root Extract, Cnidium Officinale Root Extract, Angelica Gigas Root Extract, Rehmannia Glutinosa Root Extract, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Atractylodes Japonica Rhizome Extract, Poria Cocos Extract, Prunus Mume Flower Extract, Oenothera Biennis Seed Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Paeonia Lactiflora Root Extract, Cinnamomum Cassia Bark Extract, CI 42090, Sh-Oligopeptide-1
Propanediol
Lactobacillus/Milk Ferment Filtrate
Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil
Betaine
Hydroxyacetophenone
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Leontopodium Alpinum Callus Culture Extract
Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
Arginine
Carbomer
Inulin Lauryl Carbamate
Panthenol
Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate
Polyglyceryl-10 Myristate
CI 77891
Mica
Sodium Surfactin
Agar
Bisabolol
Gellan Gum
Calcium Alginate
Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Lavandula Angustifolia Oil
Litsea Cubeba Fruit Oil
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil
Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil
Mentha Arvensis Leaf Oil
Calcium Pantothenate
Octyldodecanol
Hydrolyzed Collagen
Ascorbic Acid
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Tocopheryl Acetate
Pyridoxine Hcl
Sodium Starch Octenylsuccinate
Maltodextrin
Ceramide NP
Phosphoric Acid
Sodium Chloride
Silica
Water, Propanediol, Niacinamide, Glycerin, Lactobacillus/Milk Ferment Filtrate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil, Betaine, Hydroxyacetophenone, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Leontopodium Alpinum Callus Culture Extract, Butylene Glycol, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Arginine, Carbomer, Allantoin, Inulin Lauryl Carbamate, Panthenol, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-10 Myristate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, CI 77891, Sodium Hyaluronate, Disodium EDTA, Mica, Sodium Surfactin, Agar, Bisabolol, Gellan Gum, Calcium Alginate, Caprylyl Glycol, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Litsea Cubeba Fruit Oil, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil, Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil, Mentha Arvensis Leaf Oil, Calcium Pantothenate, Octyldodecanol, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Ascorbic Acid, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Pyridoxine Hcl, Sodium Starch Octenylsuccinate, Maltodextrin, Ceramide NP, Phosphoric Acid, Sodium Chloride, Silica
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.
The way it works is fairly well mapped out:
Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.
The clinical backing is pretty solid too.
A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.
A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.
On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.
This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.
Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.
Allantoin is a soothing ingredient known for its protective and moisturizing properties; it's basically a quiet workhorse ingredient you can find in a huge range of cosmetics.
Though it can be derived from the comfrey plant, allantoin is produced synthetically for cosmetic products to ensure purity.
Research shows it can encourage your skin cells to turn over and renew by stimulating keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation.
It also has mild keratolytic properties to help loosen and shed dead skin cells without being harsh.
Studies also suggest allantoin can help calm inflammation by dialing down some of the chemical signals your skin sends out when it is irritated.
This ingredient is typically used in the 0.1-0.5% range, and the FDA recognizes it as a skin protectant in OTC products up to 2%.
Overall, allantoin is a wonderful addition to most routines; it is stable across a wide pH range (~4-8), works well with other ingredients, and is considered non-sensitizing/non-irritating.
Fun fact: Allantoin is naturally occurring in comfrey root, beets, chamomile, and wheat sprouts. Our bodies even produce it as a byproduct of uric acid metabolism.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!