Skin science article
Elizavecca Peptide 3D Fix Elastic Bubble Facial Cream Versus Then I Met You Calming Tide Gel Cream
Elizavecca Peptide 3D Fix Elastic Bubble Facial Cream Versus Then I Met You Calming Tide Gel Cream This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Centella Asiatica Extract and Niacinamide to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture. This calming m
Elizavecca Peptide 3D Fix Elastic Bubble Facial Cream Versus Then I Met You Calming Tide Gel Cream
This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Centella Asiatica Extract and Niacinamide to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.
This calming moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Ceramide NP to calm redness and strengthen the skin barrier.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Centella Asiatica Extract
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Dipropylene Glycol
Methyl Perfluoroisobutyl Ether
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Camellia Japonica Seed Oil
Decyl Glucoside
Niacinamide
Glycerin
Glycereth-26
Sodium Hyaluronate
Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Copper Tripeptide-1
Butylene Glycol
Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract
Cellulose Gum
Hexylene Glycol
Parfum
Totarol
Ethylhexylglycerin
Sodium Myristoyl Glutamate
Decylene Glycol
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Hydrolyzed Corn Starch
Beta-Glucan
Allantoin
Adenosine
Disodium EDTA
1,2-Hexanediol
Sucrose
Sodium Hydroxide
Asiaticoside
Phenoxyethanol
Caprylyl Glycol
Astragalus Membranaceus Root Extract
Cnidium Officinale Root Extract
Angelica Gigas Root Extract
Rehmannia Glutinosa Root Extract
Panax Ginseng Root Extract
Atractylodes Japonica Rhizome Extract
Poria Cocos Extract
Prunus Mume Flower Extract
Oenothera Biennis Seed Extract
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Paeonia Lactiflora Root Extract
Cinnamomum Cassia Bark Extract
CI 42090
Sh-Oligopeptide-1
Water, Centella Asiatica Extract, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Dipropylene Glycol, Methyl Perfluoroisobutyl Ether, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Camellia Japonica Seed Oil, Decyl Glucoside, Niacinamide, Glycerin, Glycereth-26, Sodium Hyaluronate, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Copper Tripeptide-1, Butylene Glycol, Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract, Cellulose Gum, Hexylene Glycol, Parfum, Totarol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Myristoyl Glutamate, Decylene Glycol, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Hydrolyzed Corn Starch, Beta-Glucan, Allantoin, Adenosine, Disodium EDTA, 1,2-Hexanediol, Sucrose, Sodium Hydroxide, Asiaticoside, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Astragalus Membranaceus Root Extract, Cnidium Officinale Root Extract, Angelica Gigas Root Extract, Rehmannia Glutinosa Root Extract, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Atractylodes Japonica Rhizome Extract, Poria Cocos Extract, Prunus Mume Flower Extract, Oenothera Biennis Seed Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Paeonia Lactiflora Root Extract, Cinnamomum Cassia Bark Extract, CI 42090, Sh-Oligopeptide-1
Propanediol
Triethylhexanoin
Cetyl Ethylhexanoate
Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Extract
Ceramide NP
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Madecassoside
Glycereth-25 PCA Isostearate
Carbomer
Tromethamine
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Xanthan Gum
Coptis Japonica Extract
Cyanocobalamin
Betaine
Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil
Water, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Propanediol, Triethylhexanoin, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Extract, Ceramide NP, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Sodium Hyaluronate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Madecassoside, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Glycereth-25 PCA Isostearate, Carbomer, Tromethamine, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Xanthan Gum, Coptis Japonica Extract, Cyanocobalamin, Betaine, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (also known as Argireline) is a synthetic hexapeptide that is often called a "topical Botox alternative".
It works by mimicking how Botox relaxes muscles; it interferes with the signaling process that tells your facial muscles to contract. This can help soften expression lines like forehead wrinkles or crow's feet over time.
The comparison to Botox does have limits because the molecule is water-loving and relatively large.
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 has a hard time absorbing deeply enough through the skin's outer barrier to actually reach the muscles.
So whether it truly works the way Botox does at a biological level is still up for debate, but early clinical outcomes are fairly encouraging.
A 12 week human study of a multi-ingredient regimen containing this ingredient saw:
While some studies have observed improvements in wrinkle appearance, it is important to note that more consistent results are seen in multi-ingredient formulations (vs just Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 alone).
Some research studies also used higher concentrations (up to 10%) while this ingredient is usually found in concentrations up to 0.005% in leave-on formulations.
Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.
The way it works is fairly well mapped out:
Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.
The clinical backing is pretty solid too.
A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.
A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.
On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.
This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.
Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate is a lightweight ester created from coconut oil fatty acids, caprylic acid, and capric acid.
It is an emollient that helps soften skin and reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL). What sets it apart from heavier emollients is its ultralight, non-greasy feel.
Once applied, this ingredient dries down quickly and leaves a dry, silky finish behind. This also helps improve spreadability and texture.
This ingredient has an excellent safety-record and is non-irritating.
Typical concentrations for cosmetics range from 0.5-62%.
Research on Malassezia growth found no growth on fatty acid esters with chain lengths shorter than 12 carbons (it prefers C11-24).
Since Coco-Caprylate/Caprate is built on C8 and C10 fatty acids, it is out of the range that Malassezia metabolizes, and therefore safe for fungal acne.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
You might know this ingredient as Matrixyl. It is a synthetic peptide made up of five amino acids attached to a palmitic acid, a fatty acid that helps it absorb into skin more easily.
As a signal peptide, Matrixyl acts like a little messenger. Once it reaches your skin cells, it tells them to ramp up production of collagen, elastin, and other proteins that keep skin looking firm and smooth.
A 12 week clinical study found that a moisturizer containing just 3 ppm of Matrixyl led to a significant improvement in fine-lines and wrinkles. Another study showed an 18% reduction in wrinkle depth, 37% reduction in wrinkle thickness, and a 21% improvement in skin firmness after just 28 days of twice-daily use.
The coolest part is that it works at incredibly low concentrations (like 0.0003%) and it plays well with other actives.
The CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review) panel found it to be non-sensitizing across multiple tests and human patch tests also showed no irritation or sensitization.
Fun fact: Matrixyl was originally developed by French company Sederma and Procter & Gamble.
Read more about other common types of peptides here:
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!