Ellana Mineral Cosmetics Clear Skin+ Clarifying Serum With 10% Azelaic Acid Versus Dermorepubliq 5% Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate + 2% Niacinamide + Hyaluronic Acid Serum

Ellana Mineral Cosmetics Clear Skin+ Clarifying Serum With 10% Azelaic Acid Versus Dermorepubliq 5% Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate + 2% Niacinamide + Hyaluronic Acid Serum

This calming serum is formulated around Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate and Centella Asiatica Extract to calm redness.

This calming serum is formulated around Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate and Niacinamide to calm redness and fade the look of dark spots.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

No concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate

Dipropylene Glycol

Centella Asiatica Extract

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Butylene Glycol

Phenoxyethanol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Xanthan Gum

1,2-Hexanediol

Disodium EDTA

Water, Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate, Dipropylene Glycol, Centella Asiatica Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Butylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Xanthan Gum, 1,2-Hexanediol, Disodium EDTA

Propylene Glycol

Niacinamide

Centella Asiatica Leaf

Extracts

Snail Secretion Filtrate

Glycerin

Hamamelis Virginiana Leaf Extract

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Sodium Hyaluronate

Allantoin

Water, Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate, Propylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Centella Asiatica Leaf, Extracts, Snail Secretion Filtrate, Glycerin, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Hamamelis Virginiana Leaf Extract, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Sodium Hyaluronate, Allantoin

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate (PAD) comes from the condensation of azelaic acid mixed with glycine.

This ingredient has similar properties to azelaic acid; it can help reduce sebum production and soothe skin. PAD also inhibits tyrosinase activity to help brighten skin. Tyrosinase is an enzyme that controls melanin production.

A study from 2023 found 5% PAD combined with nicotinamide (a form of niacin) effectively reduced melanin production after 6 weeks.

Several studies from the 2010's also show PAD to be effective in alleviating symptoms of Rosacea.

Though this ingredient is considered a gentle active, higher amounts may result in irritation.

Unlike azelaic acid, this ingredient is water-soluble. This property makes it easier to formulate into skincare products.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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