Skin science article
Environ Skin Care Youth Essentia Vita-Peptide Eye Gel Versus Pyunkang Yul Black Tea Time Reverse Eye Cream
Environ Skin Care Youth Essentia Vita-Peptide Eye Gel Versus Pyunkang Yul Black Tea Time Reverse Eye Cream This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Palmitoyl Oligopeptide and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 to soften the look of wrinkles and fade the look
Environ Skin Care Youth Essentia Vita-Peptide Eye Gel Versus Pyunkang Yul Black Tea Time Reverse Eye Cream
This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Palmitoyl Oligopeptide and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 to soften the look of wrinkles and fade the look of dark spots.
This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Saccharomyces/Xylinum/Black Tea Ferment to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate
Panthenol
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
Butylene Glycol
Palmitoyl Oligopeptide
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Tribehenin
Ceramide Ng
PEG-10 Phytosterol
Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12
Tocopheryl Acetate
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate
Disodium EDTA
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
Glycine Soja Oil
Retinyl Palmitate
Tocopherol
Carbomer
Polysorbate 20
Caprylyl Glycol
Phenoxyethanol
Ethylhexylglycerin
Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate
Methylparaben
Sodium Hydroxide
Propylparaben
Lactic Acid
Water, Glycerin, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Panthenol, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Butylene Glycol, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Tribehenin, Ceramide Ng, PEG-10 Phytosterol, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Tocopheryl Acetate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, Disodium EDTA, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Glycine Soja Oil, Retinyl Palmitate, Tocopherol, Carbomer, Polysorbate 20, Caprylyl Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Methylparaben, Sodium Hydroxide, Propylparaben, Lactic Acid
Methylpropanediol
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Cetearyl Alcohol
Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
Hydrogenated Polydecene
Niacinamide
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Glyceryl Stearate
Beeswax
Saccharomyces/Xylinum/Black Tea Ferment
Arachidyl Alcohol
Behenyl Alcohol
Arachidyl Glucoside
Phenyl Trimethicone
Cetearyl Glucoside
Sorbitan Stearate
Cellulose Gum
Sodium Hyaluronate
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Broussonetia Kazinoki Root Extract
Punica Granatum Fruit Extract
Coptis Japonica Extract
Centella Asiatica Extract
Adenosine
Ceramide NP
Yeast Beta-Glucan
Copper Tripeptide-1
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Hydroxyacetophenone
Myrtus Communis Extract
Tropaeolum Majus Extract
Tromethamine
Octyldodecanol
1,2-Hexanediol
Water, Glycerin, Methylpropanediol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetearyl Alcohol, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Niacinamide, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Glyceryl Stearate, Beeswax, Saccharomyces/Xylinum/Black Tea Ferment, Arachidyl Alcohol, Behenyl Alcohol, Arachidyl Glucoside, Phenyl Trimethicone, Cetearyl Glucoside, Sorbitan Stearate, Cellulose Gum, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Broussonetia Kazinoki Root Extract, Punica Granatum Fruit Extract, Coptis Japonica Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Adenosine, Ceramide NP, Yeast Beta-Glucan, Copper Tripeptide-1, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Carbomer, Butylene Glycol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Myrtus Communis Extract, Tropaeolum Majus Extract, Tromethamine, Disodium EDTA, Octyldodecanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (also known as Argireline) is a synthetic hexapeptide that is often called a "topical Botox alternative".
It works by mimicking how Botox relaxes muscles; it interferes with the signaling process that tells your facial muscles to contract. This can help soften expression lines like forehead wrinkles or crow's feet over time.
The comparison to Botox does have limits because the molecule is water-loving and relatively large.
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 has a hard time absorbing deeply enough through the skin's outer barrier to actually reach the muscles.
So whether it truly works the way Botox does at a biological level is still up for debate, but early clinical outcomes are fairly encouraging.
A 12 week human study of a multi-ingredient regimen containing this ingredient saw:
While some studies have observed improvements in wrinkle appearance, it is important to note that more consistent results are seen in multi-ingredient formulations (vs just Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 alone).
Some research studies also used higher concentrations (up to 10%) while this ingredient is usually found in concentrations up to 0.005% in leave-on formulations.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.
Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.
It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.
Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.
A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.
Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!