epi.logic The Total Package Fortifying Peptide Cream Versus CeraVe Moisturizing Cream

epi.logic The Total Package Fortifying Peptide Cream Versus CeraVe Moisturizing Cream

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38 to strengthen the skin barrier and soften the look of wrinkles.

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Ceramide NP and Ceramide AP to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

C13-15 Alkane

Squalane

Octyldodecanol

Niacinamide

Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Magnesium Sulfate

Polyglyceryl-6 Oleate

Polyhydroxystearic Acid

Sodium Hyaluronate

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38

Sh-Polypeptide-121

Laminaria Digitata Extract

Ceramide NP

Gluconolactone

Disteardimonium Hectorite

Bakuchiol

Propylene Carbonate

Silybum Marianum Seed Extract

Artemisia Capillaris Flower Extract

Triolein

Glyceryl Dioleate

Sodium PCA

Sodium Lactate

Calcium Gluconate

Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin

Arginine

Aspartic Acid

PCA

Glycine

Alanine

Tocopherol

Serine

Valine

Isoleucine

Proline

Threonine

Histidine

Phenylalanine

Ubiquinone

Superoxide Dismutase

Propanediol

Xanthan Gum

Salvia Hispanica Seed Oil

Boswellia Carterii Resin Extract

Lactic Acid

Potassium Sorbate

Sodium Benzoate

Water, Glycerin, C13-15 Alkane, Squalane, Octyldodecanol, Niacinamide, Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Magnesium Sulfate, Polyglyceryl-6 Oleate, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Sh-Polypeptide-121, Laminaria Digitata Extract, Ceramide NP, Gluconolactone, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Bakuchiol, Propylene Carbonate, Silybum Marianum Seed Extract, Artemisia Capillaris Flower Extract, Triolein, Glyceryl Dioleate, Sodium PCA, Sodium Lactate, Calcium Gluconate, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Arginine, Aspartic Acid, PCA, Glycine, Alanine, Tocopherol, Serine, Valine, Isoleucine, Proline, Threonine, Histidine, Phenylalanine, Ubiquinone, Superoxide Dismutase, Propanediol, Xanthan Gum, Salvia Hispanica Seed Oil, Boswellia Carterii Resin Extract, Lactic Acid, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate

Cetearyl Alcohol

Cetyl Alcohol

Ceteareth-20

Petrolatum

Potassium Phosphate

Ceramide AP

Ceramide EOP

Carbomer

Dimethicone

Behentrimonium Methosulfate

Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate

Cholesterol

Phenoxyethanol

Disodium EDTA

Dipotassium Phosphate

Phytosphingosine

Ethylhexylglycerin

Water, Glycerin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetyl Alcohol, Ceteareth-20, Petrolatum, Potassium Phosphate, Ceramide NP, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP, Carbomer, Dimethicone, Behentrimonium Methosulfate, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Cholesterol, Phenoxyethanol, Disodium EDTA, Dipotassium Phosphate, Tocopherol, Phytosphingosine, Xanthan Gum, Ethylhexylglycerin

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Ceramide NP (formerly known as Ceramide 3) is one of the skin's naturally occurring lipids.

Since ceramides are the major lipid components of the skin, they are crucial for maintaining skin barrier and hydration. Ceramide NP most closely mirrors the dominant kind in human skin amongst ceramide subtypes.

This ceramide works by slotting into gaps within the stratum corneum's lipid matrix to limit trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and shield the skin against external irritants.

A study with 312 patients found that using a ceramide-containing routine for 4 weeks reduced the severity of atopic dermatitis by over 61%.

Another clinical study in subjects aged 60 and older found that a ceramide body wash and moisturizer improved skin dryness and itchy skin in 15 days.

Overall, ceramides are considered non-irritating and safety tests have found little to no observable adverse effects from using this ingredient.

Ceramide NP is usually sourced from plants (like soybean or rice bran), or produced synthetically.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

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