Skin science article
ESPA 24 Replenishing Eye Moisturiser Versus Dermalogica Awaken Peptide Depuffing Eye Gel
ESPA 24 Replenishing Eye Moisturiser Versus Dermalogica Awaken Peptide Depuffing Eye Gel This barrier-repair eye moisturizer is formulated around Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil and Sodium PCA to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin. This anti-aging eye mo
ESPA 24 Replenishing Eye Moisturiser Versus Dermalogica Awaken Peptide Depuffing Eye Gel
This barrier-repair eye moisturizer is formulated around Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil and Sodium PCA to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 and Caffeine to soften the look of wrinkles and calm redness.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Isopropyl Palmitate
Cetearyl Alcohol
Glyceryl Stearate
Polysorbate 60
Sorbitol
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Sodium PCA
Phenoxyethanol
Borago Officinalis Seed Oil
Glycine Soja Oil
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Xanthan Gum
Olea Europaea Fruit Oil
Centaurea Cyanus Flower Extract
Tocopherol
Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil
Oenothera Biennis Oil
Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract
Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
Prunus Persica Kernel Oil
Benzoic Acid
Glyceryl Polyacrylate
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Sodium Lactate
Dehydroacetic Acid
Aniba Rosaeodora Wood Oil
Pelargonium Graveolens Oil
Linalool
Caprylyl Glycol
Sorbitan Stearate
Ethylhexylglycerin
Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract
Parfum
Sodium Hydroxide
Boswellia Carterii Gum Oil
Citrus Aurantium Amara Flower Oil
Salvia Sclarea Oil
Santalum Album Oil
Benzyl Alcohol
Geraniol
Anthemis Nobilis Flower Oil
Potassium Sorbate
Limonene
Styrax Tonkinensis Resin Extract
Maltodextrin
Chlorophyllin-Copper Complex
Water, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Isopropyl Palmitate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Polysorbate 60, Sorbitol, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Sodium PCA, Phenoxyethanol, Borago Officinalis Seed Oil, Glycine Soja Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Xanthan Gum, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Centaurea Cyanus Flower Extract, Tocopherol, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Oenothera Biennis Oil, Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Prunus Persica Kernel Oil, Benzoic Acid, Glyceryl Polyacrylate, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Sodium Lactate, Dehydroacetic Acid, Aniba Rosaeodora Wood Oil, Pelargonium Graveolens Oil, Linalool, Caprylyl Glycol, Sorbitan Stearate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract, Parfum, Sodium Hydroxide, Boswellia Carterii Gum Oil, Citrus Aurantium Amara Flower Oil, Salvia Sclarea Oil, Santalum Album Oil, Benzyl Alcohol, Geraniol, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Oil, Potassium Sorbate, Limonene, Styrax Tonkinensis Resin Extract, Maltodextrin, Chlorophyllin-Copper Complex
Polysilicone-11
Magnesium Aluminum Silicate
Butylene Glycol
Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Caffeine
Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
Coleus Forskohlii Root Extract
Helichrysum Italicum Extract
Voandzeia Subterranea Seed Extract
Lactic Acid
Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters
Pentylene Glycol
Hydroxyacetophenone
Diosmine
Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate
Laureth-12
Chrysin
Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate
Sorbitan Oleate
Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate
CI 77120
Sodium Carbonate
Polysorbate 20
Propanediol
Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Succinic Acid
Water, Polysilicone-11, Glycerin, Maltodextrin, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Butylene Glycol, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Caffeine, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Coleus Forskohlii Root Extract, Helichrysum Italicum Extract, Voandzeia Subterranea Seed Extract, Lactic Acid, Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters, Pentylene Glycol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Diosmine, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Caprylyl Glycol, Laureth-12, Chrysin, Xanthan Gum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate, Sorbitan Oleate, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, CI 77120, Sodium Carbonate, Polysorbate 20, Sodium Hydroxide, Propanediol, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Succinic Acid
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Maltodextrin is a plant-derived carbohydrate made by breaking down starch (usually from corn, potato, or rice). In cosmetic formulas, it's a multitasking absorbent, emulsion stabilizer, and skin conditioner.
This ingredient is mostly used to stabilize emulsions and improve the powdery, non-greasy feel of products (like dry shampoos).
Safety-wise, this ingredient is pretty solid; it's even recognized as a food additive. Both animal and clinical studies found no adverse effects at the levels used in cosmetics.
Industry data shows this ingredient is used up to 45.7% in spray products and up to 33% in powder products.
Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.
In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.
Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.
"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.