Estée Lauder DayWear Advanced Multi-Protection Anti-Oxidant Creme SPF 15 Versus Glow Recipe Plum Plump Hyaluronic Acid Serum

Estée Lauder DayWear Advanced Multi-Protection Anti-Oxidant Creme SPF 15 Versus Glow Recipe Plum Plump Hyaluronic Acid Serum

This day moisturizer is formulated around Petrolatum and Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate to hydrate skin.

This hydrating serum is formulated around Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate and Sodium Hyaluronate to hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Ethylhexyl Salicylate 5%

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 3%

Homosalate 2%

Water

Butyloctyl Salicylate

Polyester-8

Petrolatum

Butylene Glycol

Cetyl Ricinoleate

Octyldodecyl Myristate

Steareth-21

Steareth-2

Caprylic/Capric/Myristic/Stearic Triglyceride

Di-C12-15 Alkyl Fumarate

Dimethicone

Psidium Guajava Fruit Extract

Gentiana Lutea Root Extract

Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract

Hordeum Vulgare Extract

Laminaria Ochroleuca Extract

Triticum Vulgare Germ Extract

Fumaria Officinalis Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract

Citrus Medica Limonum Fruit Extract

Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Extract

Hydrolyzed Rice Extract

Artemia Extract

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract

Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract

Stearyl Alcohol

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Thermus Thermophillus Ferment

Sorbitan Olivate

Caffeine

Pentylene Glycol

Lauryl PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone

Behenyl Alcohol

Pantethine

Triacontanyl Pvp

Acrylic Acid/Vp Crosspolymer

Ethylhexylglycerin

Glycerin

Linoleic Acid

Polyquaternium-51

Cholesterol

Cetearyl Olivate

Squalane

Sodium PCA

Urea

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Tocopheryl Acetate

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

Citric Acid

Sodium Hyaluronate

Ergothioneine

Glycyrrhetinic Acid

Trehalose

Lecithin

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Palmitoyl Hydroxypropyltrimonium Amylopectin/Glycerin Crosspolymer

Cyclodextrin

Nordihydroguaiaretic Acid

Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Maleate

Sodium Hydroxide

Parfum

Fumaric Acid

Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate

Ethylbisiminomethylguaiacol Manganese Chloride

Disodium EDTA

BHT

Phenoxyethanol

Benzyl Salicylate

Hydroxyisohexyl 3-Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde

Butylphenyl Methylpropional

Linalool

Mica

CI 19140

CI 42090

CI 77289

Ethylhexyl Salicylate 5%, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 3%, Homosalate 2%, Water, Butyloctyl Salicylate, Polyester-8, Petrolatum, Butylene Glycol, Cetyl Ricinoleate, Octyldodecyl Myristate, Steareth-21, Steareth-2, Caprylic/Capric/Myristic/Stearic Triglyceride, Di-C12-15 Alkyl Fumarate, Dimethicone, Psidium Guajava Fruit Extract, Gentiana Lutea Root Extract, Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract, Hordeum Vulgare Extract, Laminaria Ochroleuca Extract, Triticum Vulgare Germ Extract, Fumaria Officinalis Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Citrus Medica Limonum Fruit Extract, Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Extract, Hydrolyzed Rice Extract, Artemia Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract, Stearyl Alcohol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Thermus Thermophillus Ferment, Sorbitan Olivate, Caffeine, Pentylene Glycol, Lauryl PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone, Behenyl Alcohol, Pantethine, Triacontanyl Pvp, Acrylic Acid/Vp Crosspolymer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Glycerin, Linoleic Acid, Polyquaternium-51, Cholesterol, Cetearyl Olivate, Squalane, Sodium PCA, Urea, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Citric Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Ergothioneine, Glycyrrhetinic Acid, Trehalose, Lecithin, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Palmitoyl Hydroxypropyltrimonium Amylopectin/Glycerin Crosspolymer, Cyclodextrin, Nordihydroguaiaretic Acid, Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Maleate, Sodium Hydroxide, Parfum, Fumaric Acid, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Ethylbisiminomethylguaiacol Manganese Chloride, Disodium EDTA, BHT, Phenoxyethanol, Benzyl Salicylate, Hydroxyisohexyl 3-Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, Linalool, Mica, CI 19140, CI 42090, CI 77289

Propanediol

Pleiogynium Timoriense Fruit Extract

Podocarpus Elatus Fruit Extract

Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract

Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate

Tremella Fuciformis Polysaccharide

Acacia Seyal Gum Extract

Sr-Spider Polypeptide-1

Pantothenic Acid

Phospholipids

Spirulina Platensis Extract

Raphanus Sativus Root Extract

Caprylyl Glycol

Chlorphenesin

Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate

Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate

Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate

Potassium Sorbate

Propylene Glycol

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

1,2-Hexanediol

Hydroxyacetophenone

Carrageenan

Xanthan Gum

Sodium Glycolate

Sodium Formate

Water, Glycerin, Propanediol, Pentylene Glycol, Pleiogynium Timoriense Fruit Extract, Podocarpus Elatus Fruit Extract, Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tremella Fuciformis Polysaccharide, Acacia Seyal Gum Extract, Sr-Spider Polypeptide-1, Pantothenic Acid, Phospholipids, Sodium Hydroxide, Spirulina Platensis Extract, Raphanus Sativus Root Extract, Caprylyl Glycol, Chlorphenesin, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate, Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate, Potassium Sorbate, Propylene Glycol, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Citric Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hydroxyacetophenone, Carrageenan, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Glycolate, Sodium Formate, Phenoxyethanol, Parfum

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.

Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.

However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.

Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.

For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.

The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.

For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.

One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.

Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.

Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.

The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.

Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:

Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.

On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.

Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.

In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.

Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.

"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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